Tangent sells them. http://www.tangentsoft.net/shop/ But he is out of stock until mid June.

With at least 10.3 and 10.4 it is plug and play. Shows up as an additional sound device. Haven't tried it with anything older.

Are you plugging the Cmoy into the amplified output of some pc speakers? Try plugging it directly into your computer's line out. Or better yet a portable CD/mp3 player.

Try replacing R5 with a larger resistor. 10ohms is just a starting point. http://www.tangentsoft.net/audio/cmo...tweaks.html#r5

Try pulling the other electrolytic capacitors. If they were stressed they could be shorting internally. Maybe they weren't sealed good and some alcohol got in there. The output capacitors probably wouldn't have any effect though, if they shorted it wouldn't affect the power supply...

Time to build Alien DAC!

LM833 has bipolar inputs. It will not be stable in a Cmoy circuit without modification. Tangent has an explanation on this: http://www.tangentsoft.net/audio/hs-opamp.html Better to start with something like the recommended OPA2132 which has FET inputs.

Check your output jack wiring. I once had L-L R-G G-R. It played but sounded weird.

Quote: Originally Posted by joneeboi I tried measuring DCA but for some reason I got 0.000mA and 7.62V. I disconnected one lead of the battery and used the MM in series with the board but I still didn't get any current. Some meters have a different socket for measuring amps...

The crossfeed's capacitors do not provide any protection. Take a look at the schematic and you will see that the majority of the signal goes straight through R1 and back out.

Have you checked out this thread? http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=228976 It may be a grounding problem. Looks like you don't have it in a case yet though.

Are you sure it's the adjustable version? Or maybe R31/R32 are swapped. Can you take a picture of it?

Did you install R31/R32? Pins 1/2 are the output pins. Pin 4 is ground. Are you numbering the pins correctly? 5-8 all on one side are tied together and connected to the input voltage.

Check if your meter has a continuity check feature. Use that instead. It will beep when there is a closed circuit. So you don't need to watch the display. Some flux is conductive. You should clean it off before powering the circuit. You are probably dealing with 3 different types of flux...

Some of those solder joints on those socket pins don't look too good. Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like they could do with a reheating.

This place seems to have some. http://www.homegrownaudio.com/bulk_wire.htm Scroll to the bottom. No pictures. Never bought from them. Solid conductor. Probably not what you are looking for.

Digikey is a 0.1uf C0G ceramic Mouser is a 0.0022uf X7R ceramic Different capacitance and different composition. C0G is more temperature stable than X7R. This is more like the Digikey part 80-C350C104J1G5HA Pricey for a ceramic.

I got one of these. http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...R_SUPPLY_.html works fine. You really need to test these things since it rarely says if it is isolated or not. You use test for continuity from either AC prong to either DC output. It you get continuity from any combination of AC->DC...

Can you take a picture of the bottom of your board? It doesn't look like the power supply caps are doing anything. They don't look like they are connected to ground.

R3 looks like it is a 562Kohm instead of 562ohm. R13 is probably the same, hard to tell from the pics.

You need to have RLED if you are not using the FET/RFET/ZNR option. AD843? That isn't a good choice for battery power. It draws about 3 times as much current as most other op-amps. The Pimeta design works fine with a single 9v. But you will have to make sure the op-amps you choose are also...

WOW! I can't believe you managed to etch that double sided at home. That's awesome.

You need a dual power supply, or a single power supply with a virtual ground which simulates a dual power supply. The DCV010512D is a dual +-12V output supply. The DCV010512 is a single +12V supply. These types of DC-DC switching converters can create a lot of noise. These 1watt models don't...

Some sellers look suspiciously like they are reselling samples. Look at the parts they are selling and not selling. TI/Analog Devices does not offer some parts as samples. You will see those missing. Like the BUF634. Very rare on eBay, hasn't been available as samples from TI for some time now...

Sounds like you should still go and fine a better iron. If it is not heating properly you will get cold solder joints. You can also damage components if you need to heat them for more than a few seconds to get the solder to flow. It is easier to put the wires on the top of the board and stick...