[Bandeira]

My K701s should have about 20,000 hours on them...
I am a heavy user who bought them from a Heavy-Heavy user who told me he used them a LOT!  hhahahhahahhahahah
 
Just wondered if anyone would have a pair of spare Fostex Cup "holders".... those little plastic parts what hold the cup to the headband that have two pins on them, that prevent the cup from rotating...
Or even know where I can buy some...
Mine have broken... (Heavy user, huh)
 

 

[BotByte]

Quote:

I don't have to change volume between the Fostex or SR325is on any piece of equipment to get the same listening volume with either, precisely as I expected.
Perhaps yours is making poor contact in the jack where the detachable cable connects to the left cup?

Nope, I've taken the cable in and out.
 
Ok, tossed SR80i to the couch and switched to T50RP
 
Volume is full and there. But, turned up to 25% for sound like my Grado. 40% gets best all over tone, 55% gets best volume curve.
 
Maybe it's my pads, I spaced them two inched thick from the driver and ear. I guess it's this.

 

[Mad Max]

 
Quote:

Nope, I've taken the cable in and out.
 
Ok, tossed SR80i to the couch and switched to T50RP
 
Volume is full and there. But, turned up to 25% for sound like my Grado. 40% gets best all over tone, 55% gets best volume curve.
 
Maybe it's my pads, I spaced them two inched thick from the driver and ear. I guess it's this.

No wonder.  The only modification I've done to my earpads was Akasa risers for better seal and coat the inner side with several layers of plasti-dip to stiffen it.  The stock pads are too soft and soak up the sound.  Stiffening the inner side makes substantial improvement for closed headphones if the inner side isn't already stiff and smooth.  It affects how the pads channel sound to your ears.  Ultrasone and Beyerdynamic have the best idea, using stiff plastic for the inner side of the earpads from the headphones I've seen (DT880/990, HFI-2400, even Sennheiser's HD6x0).
An interesting side note, HFI-2400's earpads' inner side plastic have grooves on them, like rifling.  It might be interesting to somehow hear what this does to T50RP's sound.

 

[BotByte]

Quote:

 

No wonder.  The only modification I've done to my earpads was Akasa risers for better seal and coat the inner side with several layers of plasti-dip to stiffen it.  The stock pads are too soft and soak up the sound.  Stiffening the inner side makes substantial improvement for closed headphones if the inner side isn't already stiff and smooth.  It affects how the pads channel sound to your ears.  Ultrasone and Beyerdynamic have the best idea, using stiff plastic for the inner side of the earpads from the headphones I've seen (DT880/990, HFI-2400, even Sennheiser's HD6x0).
An interesting side note, HFI-2400's earpads' inner side plastic have grooves on them, like rifling.  It might be interesting to somehow hear what this does to T50RP's sound.

Hmm...
 
Well, one of these days I have to get around to making some new pads. this time I'm going to angle them towards the rear and down a bit. I'm going to make three layers including a hard layer near the driver, a stiff layer in the center made of leather and a soft layer on the outside to contact me.
 
But it's all about seal with the pads.
 

 

[DavidK35]

What made you decide to drill some holes in the cups?. Where did you drill or does it not matter? TIA.
 
Quote:

My T50RP seems a bit similar to BotByte's(BTW, thanks for the input on the other thread)...
Stuffed pads, dampening...
 
One thing I found that gave me more bass, and helped A LOT in overall tonal balance is drilling one 5ish mm hole in each cup. I honestly did not expect this to help, mainly for the nature of the driver, but it did help a lot...
If you don't like it, you can alway fill it with some tape and/or dynamat...
 
When you guys say burn in, how many hours (approximately) are talking about?
Mine have some 200ish hours on them...
 
I also find both my Fostexes to be quite power hungry... They sure did benefit a lot from my latest amp upgrades...

 

 

[BotByte]

Quote:

What made you decide to drill some holes in the cups?. Where did you drill or does it not matter? TIA.
 


 

People say it's like putting a vent for the bass.
 
One of the best ideas I came up with was a small dot (I used a foot hold that I stripped off a broken scale) Pretty much it's a round dot 1/2inch diameter with a glue side that I attached in the center of the back driver. Over the most center port hole and that somehow controlled everything better.
 
You can drill a hole, but I just cut all my dampening to the vent in the side and removed the tape for the air to move.

 

[DavidK35]

"but I just cut all my dampening to the vent in the side and removed the tape for the air to move"
 
I think I will try this method if I feel the need for more bass (not ordered them yet).

 

[jupitreas]

@BotByte or other T50RP owners:
Could you post some photos of what the T50RP looks like on one's head? They seem to be ugly based on the pictures available on the Fostex website. I am wondering what they look like in the real world. Not that looks are more important than sound, I could wear a headphone made out of feces if it sounded good Nevertheless, I am still curious what they look like on a real head...

 

[BotByte]

Quote:

"but I just cut all my dampening to the vent in the side and removed the tape for the air to move"
 
I think I will try this method if I feel the need for more bass (not ordered them yet).

More bass would be a thick layer of blutak over the backing and blutak every nook and corner. But, don't fill to touch the driver.
 
To control the bass more, do the dot and cut the hole to the driver and this causes the air to move more freely while the amount of bass is still good.
 
Pads are the biggest improvement.
 


Quote:

@BotByte or other T50RP owners:
Could you post some photos of what the T50RP looks like on one's head? They seem to be ugly based on the pictures available on the Fostex website. I am wondering what they look like in the real world. Not that looks are more important than sound, I could wear a headphone made out of feces if it sounded good Nevertheless, I am still curious what they look like on a real head...

 
I don't take pictures of myself to post online.
 
They look like AKG's. That's about the best you can think about.

 

[BotByte]

UPDATING PICTURES

 

 
The full thing
 
 

 
One pad off.
 

 
Both pads off. Left is towards head. Right is towards cup.
 

 
Removed driver felt. Just took driver out of the holder and slid knife through the felt for a clean cut
 

 
My headband holding system. Just removed the headband and slid the system over it.
 

 
Rear of driver.
 

 
That dampening dot is from somewhere. Don't remember where though. Controlled everything a little better though. Blutack on the inside too.
 

 
Blutak (not blue) on the inside. Not too pretty but doesn't matter. This is three stick rolled out with a rolling pin and the center cup open. Lay it across the with vent viable. The vent frees some bass, but also gives the driver more control of it. What's better? More bass or better bass?
 

 
To show I applied duck tape over everything on the inside to clear the plastic harmonics
 

 
Center of the driver port is blutak in a mm thin stretch to replace the felt that was there. I think this actually did something, maybe more clarity and cleared up some rattle. But not too sure.
 

 
To show how thick my pads are. That is a upside down 2, don't ask, it's a mechainist's ruler. It's just over 1 1/2 inched in width
 

 
The completed T50RP modded to a LCD-2's specs.
 
Enjoy the picks and don't think it's rude to ask questions.

 

[Hennyo]

Hey, thanks botbyte! I'll be checking back as I've GOT to try this!
 
just waiting for somebody to come in stock somewhere.

 

[Draygonn]

BotByte, your pads and headband mods are drool worthy

 

[ChavaC]

Those are totally badass. I need to find a pair of these things.

 

[BotByte]

Quote:

Hey, thanks botbyte! I'll be checking back as I've GOT to try this!
 
just waiting for somebody to come in stock somewhere.

Patience is needed
 


Quote:

BotByte, your pads and headband mods are drool worthy

 
The band is alright. The pads I've had to mod several times to get right. I still need to make new ones.

 
Quote:

Those are totally badass. I need to find a pair of these things.

Have fun

 

[mrspeakers]

All parts of the spectrum improve by removing the white felt and replacing it with a stiff craft felt...  this requires tuning the vent to reduce the then huge bass output, but it works incredibly well.  My $.02 is this will take your mod even further, but the caveat is it is not reversible.  I have built 5 pair and done significant A/B time, and there is no comparison.   
 
Also, BluTak can be improved on by using plasticine.  It is way denser and better at mass loading the baffle and killing resonances in the plastic.  
 
I'm curious why you chose to damp the back cup with blutak instead of using foam to kill reflections.  Did you A/B?  What was the result?  Or have you only tried it this way?  
 
Loved the hand-made ear pads and band.  Wish I could sew leather (probably just need to try and be willing to thread my finger a few times)...