[ds9kicks]

As I'm about to post in a different thread, after trying several different sets, including the aforementioned HD-650 and Sony MDR-7506 (which turned out to be utter crap with an atrocious emphasis near 2k), I settled on, and in-fact have found no other comparison, with the HifiMan HE400I planars (driven by Schiit Magni Heresy). I also tried the AKG K701 which, even though I love lots of crisp treble, basically sounded like tinny crap to me.

An important update to my previous setup: I immediately had to abandon the SoundBlaster device. It could not properly receive the optical output from the bluMe; exhibiting many horrid "pops" no matter what I set the output sample rate and bitrate to. Thus I ended up having to abandon my beloved PC setup with the Equalizer APO, and instead feed my Schiit Modi Multibit directly with the SPDIF from the bluMe (now using RG-59 cable for a coaxial connection instead of the inferior optical). The sound quality is exquisite this way (and I'm leaving the Android LDAC Bluetooth output on the native 96 kHz 24-bit). I am reduced to using the phone's built-in EQ, which is 9-band linear, to attenuate what I find to be too much low-end in the HifiMans. I know there are other EQ apps, but they all seem to be linear EQs like what my phone already has; I have yet to find a true parametric EQ like Equalizer APO.

Here are some pics of the resultant setup in my truck sleeper-extension. There are many remnants of an older (currently on-hiatus) project which this is basically built on-top of. The amp is mounted next-to the head of my bed. Everything was off at the time of taking the pics.

 

[ds9kicks]

So the clearest-sounding headphones for me (without exceeding $400) remain the Sony V600, now that I have found parametric EQ settings which correct for the over-emphasized low end. Tried the AT-R70x and found that they have way too much emphasis in the upper low-range.

I had to abandon the Bluetooth LDAC connection idea for which I had been using that "Auris bluMe Pro". The sound quality turned out to be lacking. I have resorted to installing Tidal on my PC, and since it doesn't have a "connect" feature like Spotify Connect, I have to use Splashtop on my phone to control Tidal (since my PC is not located where I want to listen).

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

Just an opinion. Have you tried exploring DAP's?

 

[ds9kicks]

What is that?

 

[Devodonaldson]

What is that?

Acronym for digital audio player. High end music player. Evolution of the mp3 player. Plays mp3s as well as higher resolution music files

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

Digital Audio Player = a portable music player (modern Walkman) that could play highres music locally, network etc. Popular brands are Fiio, iBasso, Hiby, Shanling, Sony, A&K etc.

DAP's have come a long way, it could drive many headphones and have many features.

 

[ds9kicks]

Digital Audio Player = a portable music player (modern Walkman) that could play highres music locally, network etc. Popular brands are Fiio, iBasso, Hiby, Shanling, Sony, A&K etc.

DAP's have come a long way, it could drive many headphones and have many features.

I am totally in-love with my DAC-amp setup which is a Schiit Modi Multibit and Magni Heresy. It's the only setup which has yielded truly crisp and transparent high frequencies. So it would have to be able to connect to the Schitt Modi, and run Tidal.

Here's why I use Tidal. It gives me uncompressed 44.1/16-bit (which in my humble opinion is about the max needed as long as there is no compression whatsoever), and gives me the ability to discover new music which is very important, particularly so-called "deep tracks" (how else could I have discovered that, for example, "You're the One" is one of the best but little-known tracks off of Chali XCX's True Romance?). Currently I have a list of over 3,000 tracks that I am going through, perhaps about a third of which I already know are good, but nevertheless want to audition again to see if they make the cut. About half of this list is deep tracks, tracks which come from full albums from a long list of my top artists. I am transferring these over to my "good and trial tracks" playlist two-at-a-time, and listening to this playlist on shuffle (in order to enjoy a mix of already-known-to-be-good tracks and yet-to-audition tracks). Tracks which make the cut get "favorited" (liked). I am also using a playlist manager (Soundiiz) which can access and modify my playlists in both Tidal and Spotify, and can seek out and eliminate duplicate tracks.

 

[Devodonaldson]

I am totally in-love with my DAC-amp setup which is a Schiit Modi Multibit and Magni Heresy. It's the only setup which has yielded truly crisp and transparent high frequencies. So it would have to be able to connect to the Schitt Modi, and run Tidal.

Here's why I use Tidal. It gives me uncompressed 44.1/16-bit (which in my humble opinion is about the max needed as long as there is no compression whatsoever), and gives me the ability to discover new music which is very important, particularly so-called "deep tracks" (how else could I have discovered that, for example, "You're the One" is one of the best but little-known tracks off of Chali XCX's True Romance?). Currently I have a list of over 3,000 tracks that I am going through, perhaps about a third of which I already know are good, but nevertheless want to audition again to see if they make the cut. About half of this list is deep tracks, tracks which come from full albums from a long list of my top artists. I am transferring these over to my "good and trial tracks" playlist two-at-a-time, and listening to this playlist on shuffle (in order to enjoy a mix of already-known-to-be-good tracks and yet-to-audition tracks). Tracks which make the cut get "favorited" (liked). I am also using a playlist manager (Soundiiz) which can access and modify my playlists in both Tidal and Spotify, and can seek out and eliminate duplicate tracks.

I used to use Tidal. Apple music is a little cheaper and for $9.99 it includes true hi-res 24/96 and above for what has it. 16/44, 24/48, etc as well where applicable.

 

[ds9kicks]

I used to use Tidal. Apple music is a little cheaper and for $9.99 it includes true hi-res 24/96 and above for what has it. 16/44, 24/48, etc as well where applicable.

I've switched to Qobuz. I was wondering why my sound quality seemed to be lacking, and tried Qobuz instead of Tidal because someone posted here earlier that they think "it just sounds better". Turns out they are right, even just at their "CD quality" setting, which is the same as I was using in Tidal (44.1/16-bit). Qobuz won't let you outright download tracks like Tidal, but it will retain them in cached storage, which you can set however large as you want.

 

[jmtocali]

I've switched to Qobuz. I was wondering why my sound quality seemed to be lacking, and tried Qobuz instead of Tidal because someone posted here earlier that they think "it just sounds better". Turns out they are right, even just at their "CD quality" setting, which is the same as I was using in Tidal (44.1/16-bit). Qobuz won't let you outright download tracks like Tidal, but it will retain them in cached storage, which you can set however large as you want.

Qobuz let's you download.

 

[fatboytroy]

Hello everyone. I'm searching the market for a budget android phone that can connect to my Mytek Liberty dac. I'm completely ignorant about the issue. Can you guys give me any advice about budget phones that are friendly with external dacs. Thank you.

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

Hello, welcome and congratulations on your 1st post.

LG Vseries + UAPP (app). You can double purpose the phone as a player/source for your DAC and a DAP when unattached.

 

[iFi audio]

LG Vseries + UAPP (app).

Yup, many folks here on HF go for LG's V series with UAPP to use as transports for their DAC/amps. Thanks!

 

[hikaritenchi]

Hi all! I'm sorry for necroposting here, but I'm running into a problem with my Sony NW-A306 Walkman source and my Sony UDA-1 receiver.

The UDA-1 only accepts a USB B (printer) input for Android 9+ devices (The Walkman is Android 12), but that port doesn't provide power.

I'm trying to figure out if there's a splitter that works so I can charge my Walkman and also provide audio to the UDA-1.

I tried a ZOOAUX splitter from Amazon that had USB-C and USB-A, and I was able to connect the USB-A side to my receiver and it works well. However, when I plug the USB-C side to charge the phone, I can only charge and the audio doesn't work anymore.

There are a number of USB-C Charge to USB-C Headphone splitters on Amazon, but all of them promise some kind of "hifi smart DAC" for the headphone part. I don't want some questionable quality DAC to interfere with the connection to the UDA-1, which has its own DAC and amplifier.

Any options out there, or should I just go for one of the random ones on Amazon?

 

[Joe Bloggs]

Hi all! I'm sorry for necroposting here, but I'm running into a problem with my Sony NW-A306 Walkman source and my Sony UDA-1 receiver.

The UDA-1 only accepts a USB B (printer) input for Android 9+ devices (The Walkman is Android 12), but that port doesn't provide power.

I'm trying to figure out if there's a splitter that works so I can charge my Walkman and also provide audio to the UDA-1.

I tried a ZOOAUX splitter from Amazon that had USB-C and USB-A, and I was able to connect the USB-A side to my receiver and it works well. However, when I plug the USB-C side to charge the phone, I can only charge and the audio doesn't work anymore.

There are a number of USB-C Charge to USB-C Headphone splitters on Amazon, but all of them promise some kind of "hifi smart DAC" for the headphone part. I don't want some questionable quality DAC to interfere with the connection to the UDA-1, which has its own DAC and amplifier.

Any options out there, or should I just go for one of the random ones on Amazon?

This might work for you albeit be a big addition?
https://store.hiby.com/products/hiby-cr06-audio-dock

It charges your DAP, and the USB-A port at the back is a replication of the DAP's USB port in terms of USB audio out.