[NewEve]

No issues here. I just checked. I use all Hart cables but I checked the Bokeh and no issues.

Thanks!

 

[NewEve]

I'll try to think up something that we can 3D print possibly to make putting pads on the BOKEH easier. Will update if I figure something out with @AnyDave and our other engineers.

Thanks for following-up here, as previously mentioned by @Casey’sToneQuest, it does mean a lot.

Quick context for what follows: unfortunately for my audiophile experience, I have bigger than average ears with cartilages that quickly decide for me whether I can keep a pair of headphones or not.

In the Bokeh's case — which I have been using with suede pads and the stock burst mesh until now — I unfortunately realised after a few sessions that my left ear's cartilage was touching the mesh/grill which became increasingly annoying and distracting. Unfortunately, the paracord trick didn't help much.

Accordingly, I removed the burst mesh and installed the hybrid pads hoping they'll be a bit less soft than the suede giving my ear a few millimetres of relief.
The first was on in a jiffy. The other kept sliding off, even when installed properly. I think it'll hold now but I do feel like it'll slip right off after one unfortunate knock.

My take on the pads is that there might be a "simple" QC issue which, I'm sure, can be addressed. Indeed, pairs of pads are clearly of different thickness and overall finish, whether we talk about the padding or the lips allowing them to be attached to the cups. Or maybe it's just coming from the fact that they're not designed for the Bokeh's oval cups.

It's definitely one of those things where we thought long and hard about it and I think this is the right system for all of the above reasons.

Indeed, my understanding is that the Bokeh (they're my first ZMFs) have oval cups and all other models have round cups. I also seem to understand that the decision was made to re-use/design the Caldera pads for the Bokeh although they were originally designed for the eponymous headphone which have round cups.

While I understand the reasons behind the decision, it doesn't matter much for those like me who do not like to have too many headphones, do not have many, or simply just have this one.

And while options are nice, too many options or badly implemented options doesn't work for someone like me.
That said, if I remember correctly, ZMF originally comes from modding Fostex headphones so I do appreciate the heritage here.

However, despite its origins, ZMF is now one of the most reputable brand in the boutique headphone industry and, with the Bokeh, made a headphone many like me would consider a "one and done" headphone — I mean its sound and looks are just superb!

So, with the aforementioned in mind, a closed system allowing very easy pad swapping might perhaps start to make sense for ZMF.

While you cannot control your client's anatomic peculiarities, you can control the design of your pads and offer an easy pad-swapping experience and, eventually, offer a simpler system with three different sizes such as shallow, standard and deep on top of the material selection such as suede, hybrids, protein and vegan.

Knowing that pads, like tips for IEMs, is what makes or breaks a headphone, it might be worth considering this path moving forward, together with a revamped system that could perhaps take ZMF to a next level — or not… these are just ideas which are admittedly way easier said and shared then done

 

[Hannu]

I also understand there's a number of people who want an easier system with injection moulded parts etc - but personally from my large headphone collection I always choose having the option to put any of our pads on other headphones to have that modularity vs having a closed system, as the savings in money and adaptability is worth it to me.

This is how it should be. You don't want to make someones treasure trove of pads redundant.

I like how the Verum guy did his pad mounting system.
Just a magnetic ring that goes under the pad lip, so you can use whatever pads you want if size allows.
On the negative side, the cup does need some kind of protruding edge so the pad won't just slide of, and that could limit pad sizes.

 

[BeelzAlBob]

Wanted to quickly share my method for switching ZMF pads, as I can do this in seconds and I continue to see folks struggling with this on all the different ZMF threads. As stated in the video, I don't own a Bokeh, but this works on every other ZMF I own (Atrium Open, Caldera, VC) and I would assume this would work just fine with the oval shape of the Bokeh. Please try this and let me know if it helps. If it does, I'll repost this on some other threads.

 

[NewEve]

Wanted to quickly share my method for switching ZMF pads, as I can do this in seconds and I continue to see folks struggling with this on all the different ZMF threads. As stated in the video, I don't own a Bokeh, but this works on every other ZMF I own (Atrium Open, Caldera, VC) and I would assume this would work just fine with the oval shape of the Bokeh. Please try this and let me know if it helps. If it does, I'll repost this on some other threads.

Just took one off and put it back on using your technique and, yup, it works like a charm.

Not as smooth on the Bokeh but it makes a world of difference

Nice one, thanks!

 

[AnyDave]

Wanted to quickly share my method for switching ZMF pads, as I can do this in seconds and I continue to see folks struggling with this on all the different ZMF threads. As stated in the video, I don't own a Bokeh, but this works on every other ZMF I own (Atrium Open, Caldera, VC) and I would assume this would work just fine with the oval shape of the Bokeh. Please try this and let me know if it helps. If it does, I'll repost this on some other threads.

I hadn't tried that before. It worked quite well. The Bokeh is still more difficult, but this trick made it easier. Thanks for making the video, seeing it helped.

 

[idairyou]

Zach, watching BeelzAlBob's video gave me an idea for making the pads easier to put on. A notch on the outer edge of the groove. You then slide the lip of the pad through the notch and as you turn the pad the notch helps guide the lip of the pad into the grove. Once you finish the turn it should be done.

 

[NewEve]

Zach, watching BeelzAlBob's video gave me an idea for making the pads easier to put on. A notch on the outer edge of the groove. You then slide the lip of the pad through the notch and as you turn the pad the notch helps guide the lip of the pad into the grove. Once you finish the turn it should be done.

That could indeed work but I think the groove would have to be a tad deeper no?

 

[idairyou]

That could indeed work but I think the groove would have to be a tad deeper no?

Yes it would. It wouldn't need to be a triangle either. A straight groove would probably work better as a guide.

That's just something I drew up in MS Paint when the idea came to my head.

 

[NewEve]

Yes it would. It wouldn't need to be a triangle either. A straight groove would probably work better as a guide.

That's just something I drew up in MS Paint when the idea came to my head.

Simple and elegant, I think it makes a lot of sense. Zach('s team) might be able to easily test that.

 

[AnyDave]

Zach, watching BeelzAlBob's video gave me an idea for making the pads easier to put on. A notch on the outer edge of the groove. You then slide the lip of the pad through the notch and as you turn the pad the notch helps guide the lip of the pad into the grove. Once you finish the turn it should be done.

Interesting. Sort of like putting a key on a keyring.

 

[NewEve]

Thanks for following-up here, as previously mentioned by @Casey’sToneQuest, it does mean a lot.

Quick context for what follows: unfortunately for my audiophile experience, I have bigger than average ears with cartilages that quickly decide for me whether I can keep a pair of headphones or not.

In the Bokeh's case — which I have been using with suede pads and the stock burst mesh until now — I unfortunately realised after a few sessions that my left ear's cartilage was touching the mesh/grill which became increasingly annoying and distracting. Unfortunately, the paracord trick didn't help much.

Accordingly, I removed the burst mesh and installed the hybrid pads hoping they'll be a bit less soft than the suede giving my ear a few millimetres of relief.
The first was on in a jiffy. The other kept sliding off, even when installed properly. I think it'll hold now but I do feel like it'll slip right off after one unfortunate knock.

My take on the pads is that there might be a "simple" QC issue which, I'm sure, can be addressed. Indeed, pairs of pads are clearly of different thickness and overall finish, whether we talk about the padding or the lips allowing them to be attached to the cups. Or maybe it's just coming from the fact that they're not designed for the Bokeh's oval cups.



Indeed, my understanding is that the Bokeh (they're my first ZMFs) have oval cups and all other models have round cups. I also seem to understand that the decision was made to re-use/design the Caldera pads for the Bokeh although they were originally designed for the eponymous headphone which have round cups.

While I understand the reasons behind the decision, it doesn't matter much for those like me who do not like to have too many headphones, do not have many, or simply just have this one.

And while options are nice, too many options or badly implemented options doesn't work for someone like me.
That said, if I remember correctly, ZMF originally comes from modding Fostex headphones so I do appreciate the heritage here.

However, despite its origins, ZMF is now one of the most reputable brand in the boutique headphone industry and, with the Bokeh, made a headphone many like me would consider a "one and done" headphone — I mean its sound and looks are just superb!

So, with the aforementioned in mind, a closed system allowing very easy pad swapping might perhaps start to make sense for ZMF.

While you cannot control your client's anatomic peculiarities, you can control the design of your pads and offer an easy pad-swapping experience and, eventually, offer a simpler system with three different sizes such as shallow, standard and deep on top of the material selection such as suede, hybrids, protein and vegan.

Knowing that pads, like tips for IEMs, is what makes or breaks a headphone, it might be worth considering this path moving forward, together with a revamped system that could perhaps take ZMF to a next level — or not… these are just ideas which are admittedly way easier said and shared then done

So it seems — — that no mesh + hybrid pads + paracord did the trick —

'Brings me back to my army days: "Duct tape and paracord is what holds the universe together gents."

 

[AnyDave]

So it seems — — that no mesh + hybrid pads + paracord did the trick —

'Brings me back to my army days: "Duct tape and paracord is what holds the universe together gents."

When you were in the army, did you ever envision just how much paracord would end up being used on headphone cables?

 

[NewEve]

When you were in the army, did you ever envision just how much paracord would end up being used on headphone cables?

Not a clue, nope

But this just made me realise why is it that I like so much paracord wrapped cables such as the Bokeh's stock 3.5 and 4.4mm… good times — anyway.

 

[Casey’sToneQuest]

Wanted to quickly share my method for switching ZMF pads, as I can do this in seconds and I continue to see folks struggling with this on all the different ZMF threads. As stated in the video, I don't own a Bokeh, but this works on every other ZMF I own (Atrium Open, Caldera, VC) and I would assume this would work just fine with the oval shape of the Bokeh. Please try this and let me know if it helps. If it does, I'll repost this on some other threads.

Hey I decided to get back on the earpad horse and tried this technique, definitely very helpful and I was able to try all 3 pads with much less frustration this time. I feel silly for not trying this out on my own hehe

I landed on the hybrid with burst mesh for now, but I had a few other quick questions. I wasn’t thinking to take pictures/mental notes before I took off the mesh and plastic rings but is it normal for them to not lie flat? Is the plastic ring meant to have a little gap vs sit perfectly inside? Lastly, are the screws meant to keep turning indefinitely and not fully tighten? Here are some pics, thanks!

Oh also the right rod is creaking/squeaking when I rotate the cup, is there a special product I should use or will something like WD40 be ok?