[L0rdGwyn]

Wow- thank you for such a comprehensive answer to my questions. I appreciate you taking the time. Going to read this through a couple of times and I am sure I will have another question for you. Thanks for helping to clear the fog a little.

No worries, I know there is a lot of jargon in there so happy to clarify if anything is confusing.

 

[sp33ls]

(Side note: I have maybe...eight? of those THF-51S SITs, actually had a design all planned out for them! Basically went tube gain stage > JFET buffer > choke loaded common drain THF-51S output. Think it was a pretty good idea, have the schematics somewhere on my computer, but I keep getting distracted by tube projects).

This is a great idea. I have a pair of 2SK180 and 2SK182ES lying idle.

In fact... Grabs overkill speaker amp to headphones adapter box...



lolololol this is stupidly good with Atrium.

Given just how great these THF-51S sound, I'd love to hear these Tokins in a purpose-built headamp. Would have some large heatsinks, but that's half the aesthetic anyhow.

Maybe I need to start a thread over there and see if anyone has taken the idea seriously and put together a schematic yet.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

This is a great idea. I have a pair of 2SK180 and 2SK182ES lying idle.

In fact... Grabs overkill speaker amp to headphones adapter box...



lolololol this is stupidly good with Atrium.

Given just how great these THF-51S sound, I'd love to hear these Tokins in a purpose-built headamp. Would have some large heatsinks, but that's half the aesthetic anyhow.

Maybe I need to start a thread over there and see if anyone has taken the idea seriously and put together a schematic yet.

Nice! There are some lower power SITs out there that might be well suited for the job (without the need for massive albeit super cool heat sinks). I'm sure someone has made a SIT headamp, no way it hasn't been done!

Anyway, don't wanna stray too far off topic

 

[sp33ls]

Agreed. Seriously, tho, if any Atrium (or ZMF in general) owners have vintage receivers with headphone outputs, or a high quality stereo amplifier, try running them off of that.

The Atrium and VC seem to actually love having all that weight behind them. Sounds so effortless. Generally speaking, I believe headroom is a myth (like 500WPC amps), but it seems there's maybe something to running these cans off of amps with the ability to swing a large voltage alongside plenty of current on tap with a stout power supply behind it.

 

[kmmbd]

The only thing I don’t get with your review, is the claim that it has rolled off sub bass. I don’t hear much difference between the sub bass extension among the Atrium, Verite, and Auteur. And in graphs, the bass down to 20hz looks pretty much identical. I’m not sure if there’s a seal issue with your pads, but that’s the only part of your review that raised an eyebrow.

Hi, thanks for reading the review. I think the bass "roll-off" here is not really as drastic as, say, the HD650, where it just nose-dives into nothingness. Rather the sub-bass rumble is somewhat lacking that last bit of impact. I think I got really good seal with the pads and I double-checked again if they were in place, and things look alright.

For reference, I have the Hifiman HE-6 for alongside the Atrium, and those have a guttural punch in the sub-bass region (when properly powered) despite having a mostly flat bass response. The Atrium lacks that last bit of physicality but then again, I don't get the biodyna texture on any planar, period.

So the sub-bass having reduced rumble below 35Hz or so is not a big deal and mostly a nitpick. In most tracks I don't even notice it, only in tracks with sudden bass-drops etc.

 

[sp33ls]

So the sub-bass having reduced rumble below 35Hz or so is not a big deal and mostly a nitpick. In most tracks I don't even notice it, only in tracks with sudden bass-drops etc.

Have you tried Auteur pads yet?

 

[kmmbd]

Have you tried Auteur pads yet?

Yes, impressions with the Auteur pads also posted in the review. The bass becomes even more prominent due to upper mids getting further muted but the rumble in the sub-bass region remains similar to Universal pads to my ears.

 

[sp33ls]

Yes, impressions with the Auteur pads also posted in the review. The bass becomes even more prominent due to upper mids getting further muted but the rumble in the sub-bass region remains similar to Universal pads to my ears.

Didn't have a chance to read your review until just now. Nicely done.

That's a great conclusion. It's very much a matter of preferences and what one values as there will be trade-offs with any headphone (damn you, physics).

For example, some search for speaker-like staging. I find it kind of fun sometimes with my 800S, but it can often times be distracting or come off in an unusual manner. Besides, I go to my actual speakers when I want that.
This leads me to placing higher values on the other aspects you mentioned.

It's always fun to see how people's preferences can differ in this hobby, and I think your conclusion does an excellent job in highlighting the primary aspects for which fans of the Atrium will love.

And on the topic of pads: I'm starting to seriously enjoy the Auteur pads with the stock (production) Titan mesh. I think I may want the solid mesh for the Universe pads as I'm more sensitive to upper mids.

 

[Mike C]

So I've heard! Seems like BHC would be a deep dive too cause then you learn how they work. I imagine the sense of satisfaction from building it and hearing it knowing you built it is probably pretty incredible. I know that I feel great after a new keyboard build when I soldered everything together right or when I swap up switches in a mouse, or a new PC build working out well. Great feeling knowing you put it together.

I'm...very tempted to just get a BHC and take my time building it. I could always just do a bit every weekend and be done within a couple weeks or something. I hear nothing but praise for BHC.

Yes! Definitely go for it.
With your skills, you will have no problems.
Two suggestions (sorry to repeat myself but they are worth noting); please take them seriously.

Enquire on the BH forum, and on other BH resources, whether the power supply can run the extra current of a E80CC over 12AU7, as the E80CC is totally pin compatible, plugs straight in as driver valve, but does take more heater current. It is a superb valve, very much better than any 12AU7, some say better than 6SN7. It's not like the subtle change one usually gets from rolling tubes, it's like changing to a better amp. Check it out on audio asylum if you are not sure. I found out how good it is with a Basie preamp; major improvement.

Do consider using good film caps for the output caps. It will need some kind of mod to the case, perhaps adding a deep plinth under it; use your ingenuity. These caps are BIG, so check the size. Not cheap, but good film caps are a major improvement over electrolytics (even the hyped Black Gates which I don't like). Only the highest level of professional gear use this due to the cost.
Be aware of how costs work out in hifi. Remember that all the costs of running the business are funded from only one place, the selling price. This then has to be about 5 to 10 times the cost of components! For specialised hand built hifi, it will be roughly 10 times. So if a professional uses say Claritycap CSA at over $100 each, he will have to raise the price by over $2000; which is why it rarely happens.
But by doing this one mod to a BH SB, I guess you will take it from say the $ 2000 class to the $4000 class (and perhaps my value estimates here are conservative); above all, you'll get absolutely great sound, hard to beat at any price. It'll knock you out with ZMF.

I have used Jantzen standard Z cap 100uF, not bad but I don't recommend it, there are definitely better.
I like Mundorf EVO oil 100uF, it is in my best OTL amp; also good is Kemet DC link cap 100uF 800V rated.
I have not tried Claritycap CSA but I highly recommend it from reputation and as someone here uses it with good results.
Think seriously about this as it'll be a lot of work if you build as standard and then want to change these caps.

I now have 2 OTL amps; Felicity is 12SN7 and E182CC (parallelled) with Kemet dc-link output caps.
Gemma is 37 triode and E810F trioded with Mundorf EVO oil output caps; an even better amp.
Being built is Freya, 2C50 and E182CC (parallelled), may try both Kemet and EVO oil output caps.

Good luck!

 

[Guinibee]

Yes! Definitely go for it.
With your skills, you will have no problems.
Two suggestions (sorry to repeat myself but they are worth noting); please take them seriously.

Enquire on the BH forum, and on other BH resources, whether the power supply can run the extra current of a E80CC over 12AU7, as the E80CC is totally pin compatible, plugs straight in as driver valve, but does take more heater current. It is a superb valve, very much better than any 12AU7, some say better than 6SN7. It's not like the subtle change one usually gets from rolling tubes, it's like changing to a better amp. Check it out on audio asylum if you are not sure. I found out how good it is with a Basie preamp; major improvement.

Do consider using good film caps for the output caps. It will need some kind of mod to the case, perhaps adding a deep plinth under it; use your ingenuity. These caps are BIG, so check the size. Not cheap, but good film caps are a major improvement over electrolytics (even the hyped Black Gates which I don't like). Only the highest level of professional gear use this due to the cost.
Be aware of how costs work out in hifi. Remember that all the costs of running the business are funded from only one place, the selling price. This then has to be about 5 to 10 times the cost of components! For specialised hand built hifi, it will be roughly 10 times. So if a professional uses say Claritycap CSA at over $100 each, he will have to raise the price by over $2000; which is why it rarely happens.
But by doing this one mod to a BH SB, I guess you will take it from say the $ 2000 class to the $4000 class (and perhaps my value estimates here are conservative); above all, you'll get absolutely great sound, hard to beat at any price. It'll knock you out with ZMF.

I have used Jantzen standard Z cap 100uF, not bad but I don't recommend it, there are definitely better.
I like Mundorf EVO oil 100uF, it is in my best OTL amp; also good is Kemet DC link cap 100uF 800V rated.
I have not tried Claritycap CSA but I highly recommend it from reputation and as someone here uses it with good results.
Think seriously about this as it'll be a lot of work if you build as standard and then want to change these caps.

I now have 2 OTL amps; Felicity is 12SN7 and E182CC (parallelled) with Kemet dc-link output caps.
Gemma is 37 triode and E810F trioded with Mundorf EVO oil output caps; an even better amp.
Being built is Freya, 2C50 and E182CC (parallelled), may try both Kemet and EVO oil output caps.

Good luck!

Wow thanks for the reply! I'm already a bit overwhelmed though even with the stock build, but I'll look into a couple small upgrades to get before I start. What would you say of the upgrades you listed is the easiest to incorporate with the best bang for buck?

 

[Kbeau]

I have the same setup as you and thinking also on an OTL amp but directly Echo MKII which is cheap right now in a shop near me.

@Kbeau told me on a previous post he has an Echo MKII and could clear our doubts once he has his Atriums.

Any help about others amps you mention would be great though. I would like to know if Echo MKII is simialr to the BHC 1.1, so I dont need to pay customs and save the DIY part.

Edit: I saw Xduoo TA-26 is cheap and also in the shop. I would be interested if it is a good OTL for Atrium and comparable to BHC 1.1

My Atriums will be here tomorrow!! ill let you know

 

[pravous]

Wow thanks for the reply! I'm already a bit overwhelmed though even with the stock build, but I'll look into a couple small upgrades to get before I start. What would you say of the upgrades you listed is the easiest to incorporate with the best bang for buck?

For ease of troubleshooting I would build the Crack stock first with maybe the addition of a better volume pot as this has no effect on the circuit. People commonly use an Alps Blue Velvet or Audio Note pot to replace the stock pot which can have some volume imbalance at low levels. Listen to the crack stock for a while and then add in the speedball. After that you can decide on what you want to upgrade next.

 

[Guinibee]

For ease of troubleshooting I would build the Crack stock first with maybe the addition of a better volume pot as this has no effect on the circuit. People commonly use an Alps Blue Velvet or Audio Note pot to replace the stock pot which can have some volume imbalance at low levels. Listen to the crack stock for a while and then add in the speedball. After that you can decide on what you want to upgrade next.

OK, I was probably going to add the speedball at least in the first build. But thanks for the suggestion .

 

[pravous]

Ultimate Atrium listening room?

Treehouse I just finished for my niece and nephews. The interior loft would be a nice little listening nook.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Ultimate Atrium listening room?


Treehouse I just finished for my niece and nephews. The interior loft would be a nice little listening nook.

Wow!!! That's impressive. More like a tree mansion for a kid!