Yet another problem with my pimeta
Aug 7, 2004 at 10:14 PM Post #32 of 47
Remove all the socketed chips and repeat your measurements. That will tell you if the TLE2426 is working. If it is, add chips back in one at a time, starting with the op-amps, until the measurements go awry.
 
Aug 7, 2004 at 10:22 PM Post #33 of 47
so I remove the AD8620/8610 and all the buffers?

My buffers are soldered in and the last time I tried to remove them I couldn't, should I leave them if I can't get them out?
 
Aug 7, 2004 at 10:35 PM Post #34 of 47
I took some readings with the AD8610 out of the ground.

From PG to the power pads:

1st - pad = 0.05V
1st + pad = 8.71V
2nd - pad = 8.69V
2nd + pad = 0.08V

There almost the same.

 
Aug 8, 2004 at 7:38 PM Post #35 of 47
what else should I try?

Should I measure from the pins of the TLE2426 to PG?
 
Aug 9, 2004 at 12:10 AM Post #36 of 47
I measured from PG to the opamps and buffers V pins and I got 0.02V at all the chips.

I'm running two 9vs for 18V, so I'm assuming that I should be getting 18V at these chips, or close to it?

Or since the ideal voltage is 18V I want a tenth of that, so I should get 1.8V. This is from Tangents trobleshooting guide.
 
Aug 9, 2004 at 12:30 AM Post #37 of 47
Quote:

My buffers are soldered in


Sigh...

Quote:

should I leave them if I can't get them out?


If you can't get them out, your only other option is to cut them off the board, clean the holes out, and get more buffers. And sockets.

But if I were you, and I were at the point where the buffers had to come out before I could do further testing, I would just toss the board, saving only the panel components and the expensive parts on the board, and start over. On a PIMETA with soldered buffers, that probably means saving only the op-amps and the pot if it's an RK27. I'd save C2/C3 only if they were exotic types, and C4 if you have installed them.

Quote:

I took some readings with the AD8610 out of the ground.


That's very strange. If the TLE were dead, you would either get a very bad split or no split at all. What you have is an accurate 1/2 V+ on virtual ground, but V- is just missing. Very odd. I'd almost suspect broken board traces or something like that at this point.

Quote:

Should I measure from the pins of the TLE2426 to PG?


No, the other way 'round: measure from V+ to all three pins of the TLE. You should get 0, ~1/2 V+, and V+. The first would be the IN pin, the second the OUT, and the third the COM pin. If so, the TLE is working.

Quote:

I'm assuming that I should be getting 18V at these chips, or close to it?


Relative to virtual ground (PG), you should be getting approximately +9V at V+ and -9V at V-. You see that V+ on your chips is correct, but V- is missing, right? This is most curious.

Quote:

Or since the ideal voltage is 18V I want a tenth of that, so I should get 1.8V. This is from Tangents trobleshooting guide.


It says within a tenth of a volt of ideal, not 1/10 of the supply voltage. Ideal is +/-9V. That means 8.9V and -9.1V is just fine. The reason you're getting more like 8.7V is almost certainly because your battery is no longer exactly 18V.
 
Aug 9, 2004 at 1:21 AM Post #38 of 47
Should I try a new TLE2426, because I can't really afford to basiclly start over.

I do have more buffers.
 
Aug 9, 2004 at 1:53 AM Post #39 of 47
Quote:

Should I try a new TLE2426


Do the TLE measurements I suggested first.

Quote:

I can't really afford to basiclly start over.


If you replace enough parts, you will arrive at that place anyway.

Quote:

I do have more buffers.


You might contemplate cutting the buffers off the board, adding sockets and then re-testing, but you risk damaging the board.
 
Aug 9, 2004 at 4:01 AM Post #40 of 47
How about I present you with another option here?

Send me the amp and I will fix it.
You pay ONLY for shipping(both ways) and whatever replacements parts the amp may need.
PM me for details if this sounds like a good idea to you.
smily_headphones1.gif
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top