[Sovkiller]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fitz /img/forum/go_quote.gif Now you're just being silly.

No honestly I'm asking as I do not know what that means, all those brands protecting their secrets, and later on all they say is 44 activated rosin, rosin is a resin that could be a lot of things, and activated, but in which way, and what does that beenfit the soldering...I know that myabe those questions are irrelevant, and if you have been using one thing for years why the change, but that doesn't mean that any other manufacturer could find another resin that will work as this one or better...have you ever tried aspirin, that works also...

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sovkiller /img/forum/go_quote.gif And what does 44 activated rosin means??? Anyway, for the ones interested i emailed them asking about the chemical composition and the flux material etc... BTW after all those datasheets, that we will probably get, you can draw your conclusions, but just for the records the worst two I have used are the Cardas and the Homeground silver one, and both are considered audiophile grade...I even preffer the RS one to those two...

Kester publishes all of their chemical compositions and they are readily downloaded from the web. The problem with re-branding is that information is often difficult to trace and match up with the specific product.

As for Kester 44, I have personally used it off and on since the mid-60's. Many times it was used without ever rinsing it off back in those days. I still have some things with those joints and they still work (didn't know any better - just wiped). It appears that Kester 48 is now the replacement that is "ROHS" compliant, and appears to be even less corrosive:

Kester 44 Flux
Kester 48 Flux

 

[Sovkiller]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Kester publishes all of their chemical compositions and they are readily downloaded from the web. The problem with re-branding is that information is often difficult to trace and match up with the specific product. As for Kester 44, I have personally used it off and on since the mid-60's. Many times it was used without ever rinsing it off back in those days. I still have some things with those joints and they still work (didn't know any better - just wiped). It appears that Kester 48 is now the replacement that is "RoHS" compliant, and appears to be even less corrosive: Kester 44 Flux Kester 48 Flux

Thanks man, I just emailed their technical support dept to see if they answer my request of publishing the data, or at least provide it to me in a PDF or whatever format....

 

[Ace o' Spades]

I use simple 60/40 .032 diameter solder from Radio Shack

 

[Fresno Bob]

I use Radio Shack part#64-035 silver-bearing solder 62/36/2

 

[Joshatdot]

Whats a good size of 63/37? mainly for amp building.

0.15
0.25
0.32

 

[Fresno Bob]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshatdot /img/forum/go_quote.gif Whats a good size of 63/37? mainly for amp building. 0.15 0.25 0.32

Personally i use .015 when doing smd soldering, and lager diameters for through hole components, However. any of those you list should get the job done.

 

[DSlayerZX]

in my experience, the Radio Shack silver bearing one has a high melting point. Not very safe on boards with thin/fragile trace.
The good thing is that they get into the solid state really really fast


But anyway, currently using generic solder, considering getting some cardas and try it out when I start my Zhaolu project... which won't be happening for at least 4 months.

 

[cotdt]

the Cardas one melts easily and is very strong. but it is not shiny. i want shiny dammit! i might be going back to tin/lead because it is shiny.

 

[Seaside]

Want shiny joint?
Then use solder that contains silver in it.
I used to use a role of Kester silver solder (forgot the #) and the joint was quite shiny. I went back to kester 63/37 because I do not want to spend extra dollors for that shiny joint, which can not be seen any more when cased up.

 

[quattro98]

Kester 62/36/2 or 63/37, both with the 44 rosin core.

 

[quattro98]

My 63/36/2 is 0.025" & my 63/37 is 0.031" & work fine for PCB soldering. I think the 0.015" would be a little thin for general use.

 

[colonelkernel8]

Quote:

Originally Posted by quattro98 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I think the 0.015" would be a little thin for general use.

Agreed, when it gets that thin, you have to literally push the solder into the joint to accumulate enough.

 

[Nospam]

Here's where I got my silver solder:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=193243

For most soldering, I still use this:
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6262

 

[firefox360]

I personally use a generic 63/37 mix solder that I got from the local electronics parts store. It's great and much better than the 60/40 that I've tried (which are probably too old anyways...). I now absolutely adore eutectic solder mixes.