[episiarch]

I agree with gregorio. Inexpensive unshielded cables are certainly capable of degrading sound. I can hear the difference between super-cheapo (or free bundled) cables and better-quality ones. I think when we're talking about being nonbelievers here, we're not saying that cables are irrelevant, but that we're yet to be sold on the benefits and distinguishability of high-cost ones.

 

[analogbox]

I had heard the difference in sound but they weren't necessarily better but only different. In the end, I didn't think the difference was worth the money and ended up selling it. If the price is right, I'd still like to try different cables though.

 

[ph0rk]

I use radio shack cables for the most part, save for a couple of ~12 year old monster and AR cables I walked out of bestbuy with because I didn't feel like driving to radio shack (back when they sold RCA cables at almost reasonable prices: <$10 each)

I -will- however spring for the $1 extra gold-plated "elite" cables from ratshack - the baseline stuff is often noisy and I've had intermittent connections from time to time. I still have some of them in use though, I just might not buy them again.

 

[linuxworks]

you said IC and I assume that means analog, line level, unbalanced, rca stuff?

I'll go for medium grade stuff in the lower price range

it has to be 'competant' and most of us can tell if the connector is physical good, if the wire is well shielded and overall, if it will hold up over time and wear. or not.

there used to be a grade of monster cable that was made for car audio and it had a nice foil wrap and copper braid. the rca plugs were 'ok' but I would often cut a long cable to shorter lengths and use the termination on the factor ends as-is and then add my own connectors at the right length. then keep using segments until I got to the end

it was meant for car audio (had a middle 'turn-on' wire) and so it was well shielded. that was a must-have back in the analog days

for digital, I use whatever I have. any toslink and any coax. if I run out of coax, I use ribbon cable on rca plugs. some days, I omit the rca plugs

 

[Lazarus Short]

I am in the "wire is wire" camp, but I avoid the BOTL cables if I can, especially on critical applications. I like cables with:

electrical transfer surfaces not corroded ("gold" plate a +)
sufficient gauge of conductors
no intermittent signal losses, even when the cable is twisted this way & that
good soldering
ease of use (easy off & on, with a slight interference fit)
general robust construction

Who could ask for anything more??? So...I own some BOTL cable, some really wonderful Cable Talk interconnects, everything in between, including several DIY's, and I use it all.

On the digital side, I have used really good cables between the transport and the DAC, such as an MIT, but having read of an experiment in which a steel coat hanger qualified as adequate, I now use a solid-core Tara patch cord between trans & DAC. The music is wonderful.

 

[nkk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by krmathis /img/forum/go_quote.gif My take is... Either you do not believe in cables and use the simple IC cable provided with the unit (example below). Or you believe in cables and spend money on an aftermarket cable. Cause if you do not believe in cables, why even spend $30 on an aftermarket one? Since it in your opinion do not make a difference.

Becuase quality makes a difference. I do not believe (but am willing to be proven wrong). However, I still plan on getting BJ Cables, becuase I am willing to pay a little more to know that the cables are made well, and will not start fraying too early at the stress relief points, or that all soldering was done well. I was perfectly happy using my fiio e5 stock cables, until one of them had the 3.5mm stick come off of the actualy cable (not the rubber, but the metal). I decided I had nothing to lose in taking it apart, as it already was broken. Upon further inspection, it seemd that there were air bubbles or something in the soldering, as the thing had come right off and with a jeweler's loupe I could easily see imperfections. This all happened about 2 days after getting the e5, and with maybe 10 plug mating cycles, all of which were done without pulling on the wire, but the plug. Now, if this had happened when I was on a trip, or even just out for the day, I would be mildly annoyed. So I will pay a little more for good construction quality to ensure that does not happen.

With that being said, I do use some stock cables for home rigs, as I am obviously not going to be out while using that. However, I am going to buy BJ cables for that, too, so that I can at least say I tried to find a difference.

-Nkk

 

[lmf22]

I'm not a believer in getting expensive cables. I used to have Blue Jeans for both analog and coaxial. Now I took a step up and have Signal Cable Silver Resolution with silver Eichmann bullet plugs for analog, and Stereovox coaxial. I don't plan on getting any more analog cables that are more expensive than what Signal Cable offers.

 

[xolp]

Using Belden and Canare with Switchcraft and Neutrik here...

From everything from balanced line cables to unbalanced instrument cables.

 

[JamesL]

I'm not particularly a non-believer, as I stay away from flat, super-braided, ultra-thin, or nonshielded cables that have extremely high capacitances, susceptible to noise, have unorthodox electrical characteristics, susceptible to wear/tear/water damage/etc, or just a pain in the butt to use.

However, I do think cable differences are largely academic, at least when concerning audio quality.
I like to use Neutrik Profi's and studio-grade cables that are appropriate for it's intended use.

 

[donunus]

Quote:

Originally Posted by analogbox /img/forum/go_quote.gif I had heard the difference in sound but they weren't necessarily better but only different. In the end, I didn't think the difference was worth the money and ended up selling it. If the price is right, I'd still like to try different cables though.

x2
but i'm keeping my analysis plus ic's

 

[nick_charles]

I am also in the prove it to me camp, though leaning towards no difference camp after my own tests, but I previously strongly believed that cables might make a difference, from reading material here and elsewhere (more fool me) not from my own experience, which is why I have so many above stock level cables, see compulsive below..

To cope with my numerous sources...


Monoprice premium ($2.39)

Tartan (Belden) ($5) - bought for testing, better made than monoprice

Stock cables (? ) - probably 20 years old at least

Monoprice basic ($0.77c)

several used AR AP031 ( several lengths) $10 or so - compulsive cable buyer back then, and before I did my own cable tests, keep for backup, some bought for test purposes

numerous anonymous cheap eBay cables - see compulsive above

Stranded Silver cable - bought solely for cable testing - ~$90 - will sell for $60 shipped OBO

Also bought and sold BJC ($28) , Audioquest Sidewinder ($60), Audioquest G-Snake($35) and DH Labs BL1-II ($75) all for test purposes.

 

[jcx]

my thinking:
Quote:

Originally Posted by jcx /img/forum/go_quote.gif re Radio Shack's cheapest - even a hard core numbers only guy expects there to be better objective performance cable out there from inspecting the results of having more than one come apart as it gripped too tighly it is obvious that the sheild is not 360 degree terminated under that moulding 360 degree sheild termination and high coverage, high conductivitiy sheild is essential to good performance in RCA-RCA cable its also a major convienience if they don't break apart when unplugged by hand PVC over mould/outer jacket is no problem or even for line-line in low impedance speaker runs but PVC does have measureable deficencies as a dielectric - I think you will find many instrumentation cables use at least polypropylene internal insulation for even audio frequencies with polyethylene or teflon for hi Z source, video, or runs of substantial length

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcx /img/forum/go_quote.gif for single-ended line level interconnect with RCA phono patch cables the shield resistance should be as low as possible to reduce conducted EMI current interference with the signal: "'Exotic cables will not stop noise. Expensive cables, even if double or triple shielded, made of 100% unobtainium, and hand woven by virgins will have no significant effect on hum or buzz. Only the resistance of the grounded conductor can make a difference.' If you have to use coax, Belden 8241F, with a low-resistance copper-braid shield, works well for audio and video." from: Washington June AES - SMPTE.org 360 degree termination of the outer coax is also best practice - not common in cheaper cables

I expect Mogami or BlueJeans to be fine

 

[MatsudaMan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by krmathis /img/forum/go_quote.gif My take is... Either you do not believe in cables and use the simple IC cable provided with the unit (example below). Or you believe in cables and spend money on an aftermarket cable. Cause if you do not believe in cables, why even spend $30 on an aftermarket one? Since it in your opinion do not make a difference.

Yes, exactly. However, they will tell you that they buy the 30 dollar one for "build quality"...lol. Some will even say that there is a difference between the stock and Blue Jeans cable but no difference between Blue Jeans and an expensive one....very convenient argument for those who can't afford or can't hear the difference between interconnects.

 

[Pars]

Agnostic as well. Started down the cable path a decade ago; quickly decided it wasn't for me. For ICs I use Audioquest Turquoise (20 years old), a couple of pairs of Audioquest Ruby (bought used a decade ago), a couple of pairs of HGA Super Silvers (from when I wanted to believe), and some DIY cables built with Neotech UPOCC (~$1/ft) spiraled over cotton rope w/good (Yarbo) but not expensive RCAs. Speaker cables are Kimber 8TC (bought used for incredibly cheap). If I use minis, they are Neutrik NYS231Ls on Canare (DIY). Headphone extension is Mogami w/Neutrik 1/4" connectors, also DIY.

 

[ph0rk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MatsudaMan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yes, exactly. However, they will tell you that they buy the 30 dollar one for "build quality"...lol. Some will even say that there is a difference between the stock and Blue Jeans cable but no difference between Blue Jeans and an expensive one....very convenient argument for those who can't afford or can't hear the difference between interconnects.

So people who argue that expensive cables don't differ much from ~$30 and below cables are making a convenient argument - how are some that have already spent hundreds or thousands on interconnects claiming that they have no need to try any form of rigorous testing because they can clearly hear the difference their investment makes not making an equally convenient argument?

You argue that one side is arguing to rationalize their lack of expenditure - can't members of the other side be just as likely to argue to rationalize an already-made expenditure?