[ProtegeManiac]

  How long should I let the DT990 burn in until the would sound optimal? Was thinking of letting them play like 24 hours a day in like three days maybe, on my iPhone (just my normal playlist on Spotify). Would that work?

 
I wouldn't really worry about breaking in the drivers or earpads, just use them and they'll break in in the process.
 
 

  And second. How would I setup the amp? Would I need a RCA to Aux cable and use it like this: Aux end to the PC and RCA end to amp, then my headphones into the headphone port?

 
Yes, just use a 3.5mm to RCA cable. Hook up the 3.5mm end to the FR+FL output on your motherboard/soundcard, then headphones to the amp.

 

[killerline]

Guys I found a used O(bjecitve)2 for less then 100 dollars here in Sweden!! Is it better go get it than the Fiio K5?
It is alot cheaper so I'd rather but it as well hehe, but as said, performance wise. Is it better or equal?

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Guys I found a used O(bjecitve)2 for less then 100 dollars here in Sweden!! Is it better go get it than the Fiio K5?
It is alot cheaper so I'd rather but it as well hehe, but as said, performance wise. Is it better or equal?

 
Is it the portable version? Because if it is then you have to consider a couple of things:
 
1. Condition of the battery. Even if you won't use it away from an outlet it might bloat at some point, and if you don't watch it, it can rupture and spill its chemicals on the board.
 
2. The input might be on the front. This is less of a problem for an iPod strapped on top, but on a desktop system, the cable has to go around to the front, so there's one more cable that you can't keep out of the way behind the electronics.

 

[killerline]

Is it the portable version? Because if it is then you have to consider a couple of things:

1. Condition of the battery. Even if you won't use it away from an outlet it might bloat at some point, and if you don't watch it, it can rupture and spill its chemicals on the board.

2. The input might be on the front. This is less of a problem for an iPod strapped on top, but on a desktop system, the cable has to go around to the front, so there's one more cable that you can't keep out of the way behind the electronics.

1. He said he bought it used as well but only like 2 weeks ago or so.
He said that it could be used with either a AC adapter or with a battery?

2. What do you mean? Isn't the headphone port (output) on the front and input in the back? And if it is as you say why the heck would they design it like that?

And you didn't answer my question . Does it perform differently than the K5? Like I know Schiits amp like to make the highs sound a bit more, right? But do you think the K5 or O2 is better for my Dt990?
(And yes I have bought it and I love it! Perfect for me!)

EDIT: just noticed that some have all the ports on the front? Why is that??

 

[ProtegeManiac]

1. He said he bought it used as well but only like 2 weeks ago or so.
He said that it could be used with either a AC adapter or with a battery?

 
You ignored the point I raised about it - the problem isn't using either battery or AC power, but that it has a battery. You have to check it from time to time, even if - if not especially when - you use it plugged in all the time because at some point it might start leaking crud all over the O2's PCB. This isn't as critical as, say, checking the air on your tyres, but something you need to be aware of, if you have a chance to get one that doesn't have a battery in it at all.
 
 

2. What do you mean? Isn't the headphone port (output) on the front and input in the back?

 
Analogue input in red circle. Oh, and the power supply input is in the orange circle.

 
 
 
 

And if it is as you say why the heck would they design it like that?

EDIT: just noticed that some have all the ports on the front? Why is that??

 

Different ergonomic requirements/preferences.

 
 
Front panel inputs make more sense on an amp oriented longer front to back.

 
 
 
 
 
 

And you didn't answer my question

. Does it perform differently than the K5? Like I know Schiits amp like to make the highs sound a bit more, right? But do you think the K5 or O2 is better for my Dt990?
(And yes I have bought it and I love it! Perfect for me!)

 
Well first off I haven't tried the K5. That said, based on what Fiio claims and if we assume it's true, then at low volume listening they might be indistinguishable. As for how either will distort when pushed, it's hard to tell how different theK5 will be, but suffice to assume that you probably won't get anywhere near its limits unless you use very low efficiency headphones.

 

[killerline]

You ignored the point I raised about it - the problem isn't using either battery or AC power, but that it has a battery. You have to check it from time to time, even if - if not especially when - you use it plugged in all the time because at some point it might start leaking crud all over the O2's PCB. This isn't as critical as, say, checking the air on your tyres, but something you need to be aware of, if you have a chance to get one that doesn't have a battery in it at all.



Analogue input in red circle. Oh, and the power supply input is in the orange circle.






Different ergonomic requirements/preferences.




Front panel inputs make more sense on an amp oriented longer front to back.









Well first off I haven't tried the K5. That said, based on what Fiio claims and if we assume it's true, then at low volume listening they might be indistinguishable. As for how either will distort when pushed, it's hard to tell how different theK5 will be, but suffice to assume that you probably won't get anywhere near its limits unless you use very low efficiency headphones.

Then I think the K5 would suit me better? It seems to me that the O2 will just be trouble for me.. And I've read that the O2 "sounds different" or rather "performs different" with certain headphones? Is it true?
But as said, I just got lucky to find that used deal here in Sweden. But if the battery is such a problem (and the ports..) then I will just skip this opportunity?

Here's the link to the O2 (it's in Swedish but just look at the picture )
http://m.blocket.se/vasterbotten/Objective_2_Horlursforstarkare_68131618.htm?ca=11&w=3

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Quote:

Then I think the K5 would suit me better? It seems to me that the O2 will just be trouble for me.....But if the battery is such a problem (and the ports..) then I will just skip this opportunity?

 

As much as the battery can fail and leak, I'm personally going to be bothered more by the front panel input. You're going to deal with the cable snaking around it everyday, but the battery isn't something you need to check on a daily basis. AFAIK nearly all O2 amps (if not all of them) use dual 9v rechargeables, so this isn't a battery pack that needs soldering or has cables to manage until they bloat, but there are a number of things you need to do, that if I were using it aren't going to annoy me, much less as much as the snaking cables would, but YMMV. First off, try to charge it while not listening, so you don't put a continuous charge-recharge cycle on it that heats it up (which wears out the battery and increases the likelihood of it failing, and catastrophically). Second, using it from fully charged without a charging current lets you know if you're getting to the point where the battery can't hold a charge anymore, which warns you that it can soon get to a point that it will leak, which lets you throw them out ahead of time and after having passed by a store for a new pair.

 

Again, these procedures won't bother me, given I charge my battery powered devices from roughly 40% while switched off as much as possible, but you can be significantly different. 

 

 

Quote:

Here's the link to the O2 (it's in Swedish but just look at the picture )
http://m.blocket.se/vasterbotten/Objective_2_Horlursforstarkare_68131618.htm?ca=11&w=3

 

Not sure if it's just not loading properly but the pic is so blurry it's like an out of focus shot. Anyways, I can see the analogue input on the front, but the power input seems to be in the back.

 

 

 

 

 

Quote:

And I've read that the O2 "sounds different" or rather "performs different" with certain headphones? Is it true?

 

All amplifiers can perform differently on some headphones (or speakers, as the case may be) in the sense that it can introduce its own type of distortion if it has design limitations that give it certain disadvantages in driving a headphone. Low sensitivity headphones need more power and current, low impedance headphones require low output impedance, high output impedance usually offsets it with high sensitivity but make it play louder and you can tell the difference between amps in terms of the power output as those with higher output voltage will likely have significantly less distortion as you play louder (note tht some tube amps have too much of deliberate distortion, even if they have a high voltage output).

 

That statement however is just the total opposite about the O2's performance as it's one of the amps that remains consistently clean with just about any headphone you throw at it. A little bit of sharpness in the treble but this isn't a problem unless the headphone itself has a lot of that to begin with.

 

[killerline]

As much as the battery can fail and leak, I'm personally going to be bothered more by the front panel input. You're going to deal with the cable snaking around it everyday, but the battery isn't something you need to check on a daily basis. AFAIK nearly all O2 amps (if not all of them) use dual 9v rechargeables, so this isn't a battery pack that needs soldering or has cables to manage until they bloat, but there are a number of things you need to do, that if I were using it aren't going to annoy me, much less as much as the snaking cables would, but YMMV. First off, try to charge it while not listening, so you don't put a continuous charge-recharge cycle on it that heats it up (which wears out the battery and increases the likelihood of it failing, and catastrophically). Second, using it from fully charged without a charging current lets you know if you're getting to the point where the battery can't hold a charge anymore, which warns you that it can soon get to a point that it will leak, which lets you throw them out ahead of time and after having passed by a store for a new pair.

Again, these procedures won't bother me, given I charge my battery powered devices from roughly 40% while switched off as much as possible, but you can be significantly different. 



Not sure if it's just not loading properly but the pic is so blurry it's like an out of focus shot. Anyways, I can see the analogue input on the front, but the power input seems to be in the back.






All amplifiers can perform differently on some headphones (or speakers, as the case may be) in the sense that it can introduce its own type of distortion if it has design limitations that give it certain disadvantages in driving a headphone. Low sensitivity headphones need more power and current, low impedance headphones require low output impedance, high output impedance usually offsets it with high sensitivity but make it play louder and you can tell the difference between amps in terms of the power output as those with higher output voltage will likely have significantly less distortion as you play louder (note tht some tube amps have too much of deliberate distortion, even if they have a high voltage output).

That statement however is just the total opposite about the O2's performance as it's one of the amps that remains consistently clean with just about any headphone you throw at it. A little bit of sharpness in the treble but this isn't a problem unless the headphone itself has a lot of that to begin with.

Hmm... I think I'm leaning for the K5 TBH (thanks to the bible you wrote btw but I enjoyed it).
I don't like "trouble". Just want to keep it simple and feel good about it. What do you think? Or actually I almost know what you're going to say but I'm asking just to be in the clear.

And about being "significantly different" is both a false and true statement. I wouln't want to spend time on my amp everyday but something I like to spend time on for a full day is my PC (as I am into that stuff, technology FTW).

 

[killerline]

Now when I think about it, do you think a Xonar U7 would amp a Dt990 (250 ohm) enough? If it does wouldn't it be great? Both superior sound, built-in (quality?) headphone amp, 7.1 virtual surround and even external sound . What do you think? I even considered getting the new Strix Soar/ Raid but I don't think they're good enough, right? If not then that's too bad. Because it has alot if handy features for both gamers and audiophiles

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Now when I think about it, do you think a Xonar U7 would amp a Dt990 (250 ohm) enough? If it does wouldn't it be great? Both superior sound, built-in (quality?) headphone amp, 7.1 virtual surround and even external sound

. What do you think? I even considered getting the new Strix Soar/ Raid but I don't think they're good enough, right? If not then that's too bad. Because it has alot if handy features for both gamers and audiophiles

 
Not as well as the O2 or the Magni if you want to go a bit louder, but if those DSP features are important to you there really is no substitute for those. You can always use the U7 with another amplifier down the line, especially if you get a harder to drive headphone.

 

[killerline]

Not as well as the O2 or the Magni if you want to go a bit louder, but if those DSP features are important to you there really is no substitute for those. You can always use the U7 with another amplifier down the line, especially if you get a harder to drive headphone.

Well, 1. The Magni would be stupid to buy from amazon since I live in Sweden
And 2. The O2 were just not for me. Everything you said with the battery and then all the ports in the front, nah man.
The U7 is alot cheaper than the K5 (like 50 dollars) and as mentioned I do get increased sound quality, better DSP features, built-in amp and it's exterior.
When I had my Siberia v2 with my DSX I had like Windows on 70-80, and Spotify on 50 or so. Games were always too loud so. Do you think the U7 could power up the Dt's, and not so I have to have high volume to get a satisfying sound level but so I have headroom at least.

And what about the Strix Soar/ Raid? Any comments? I've read good reviews about it.

 

[god-bluff]

Second hand Musical Fidelity V Can II (pairs nicely with Dt990) or Pro-Ject Headbox S ? Both easily found in Europe

 

[killerline]

Second hand Musical Fidelity V Can II (pairs nicely with Dt990) or Pro-Ject Headbox S ? Both easily found in Europe

I can easily get the Pro-Ject for less than 100 dollars but I remember ProtegeManiac telling me it's no good? And the first you mentioned is over my budget, 200+ dollars..

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Quote:

Well, 1. The Magni would be stupid to buy from amazon since I live in Sweden
And 2. The O2 were just not for me. Everything you said with the battery and then all the ports in the front, nah man.
The U7 is alot cheaper than the K5 (like 50 dollars) and as mentioned I do get increased sound quality, better DSP features, built-in amp and it's exterior

 

The Magni is sort of a reference when comparing amps' price to performance ratio, not including extraneous transaction costs. I never said you get it, it's just something used as a reference point for that price point.

 

As for the U7, how are you certain you "get increased sound quality"? Soundcards and that includes external USB units tend to have certain issues with headphones, most notoriously high output impedance, so that limits you to just what you have now and anything with 120ohms or more. Still, even then, some of them either don't have enough power or willy on very high gain to compensate - not really surprising given most of them are PCI- or USB-powered, but it's a limitation you need to be aware of before making any decisions. In any case I did say the U7 does have DSP features that an amp or a DAC-HPamp does not have.

 

 

Quote:

When I had my Siberia v2 with my DSX I had like Windows on 70-80, and Spotify on 50 or so. Games were always too loud so. Do you think the U7 could power up the Dt's, and not so I have to have high volume to get a satisfying sound level but so I have headroom at least.

 

The Siberia V2 is 32ohms with a sensitivity of well over 100dB/1mW. At 250ohms and 96dB/1mW, the DT990 is easy to drive comapred to a HiFiMan, but the Siberia V2 is a lot easier to drive than the Beyer.

 

Speaking of headroom...USB power, tiny capacitors, sometimes these devices don't even have a proper amp circuit, just an audio chip (integrated DAC and headphone driver amp; not sure if the U7 specifically has this kind as well) but more power than what you'd find on a smartphone (ex more of what's in the Fiio M3), but the output impedance is still high (this isn't a problem with your Beyers though). This does not mean they absolutely cannot perform as you require it to, but again, a few things you need to be aware of before dropping any money on it.

 

Ultimately, and I reiterate, if those DSP features are useful to you, then there really isn't any other way to get them, on top of which, IF you need more power down the line, these can be hooked up to an amp.

 

 

Quote:

I can easily get the Pro-Ject for less than 100 dollars but I remember ProtegeManiac telling me it's no good? And the first you mentioned is over my budget, 200+ dollars..

For its original MSRP, even at the time it came out, no - it's basically a CMOY with a good looking metal case. At least the Grado RA1 matches the wood on the RS-x headphones (not that I'd get one). 

 

In 2016 even at that price it has a fair bit of competition - even if you have a bit of a problem importing the Magni you might as well get the K5. Or the older Fiio E9. Or again, if you need the DSP features, then might as well get the U7, at least it can work with another amp in case you need more clean power.

 

[killerline]

The Magni is sort of a reference when comparing amps' price to performance ratio, not including extraneous transaction costs. I never said you get it, it's just something used as a reference point for that price point.

As for the U7, how are you certain you "get increased sound quality"? Soundcards and that includes external USB units tend to have certain issues with headphones, most notoriously high output impedance, so that limits you to just what you have now and anything with 120ohms or more. Still, even then, some of them either don't have enough power or willy on very high gain to compensate - not really surprising given most of them are PCI- or USB-powered, but it's a limitation you need to be aware of before making any decisions. In any case I did say the U7 does have DSP features that an amp or a DAC-HPamp does not have.



The Siberia V2 is 32ohms with a sensitivity of well over 100dB/1mW. At 250ohms and 96dB/1mW, the DT990 is easy to drive comapred to a HiFiMan, but the Siberia V2 is a lot easier to drive than the Beyer.

Speaking of headroom...USB power, tiny capacitors, sometimes these devices don't even have a proper amp circuit, just an audio chip (integrated DAC and headphone driver amp; not sure if the U7 specifically has this kind as well) but more power than what you'd find on a smartphone (ex more of what's in the Fiio M3), but the output impedance is still high (this isn't a problem with your Beyers though). This does not mean they absolutely cannot perform as you require it to, but again, a few things you need to be aware of before dropping any money on it.

Ultimately, and I reiterate, if those DSP features are useful to you, then there really isn't any other way to get them, on top of which, IF you need more power down the line, these can be hooked up to an amp.

If you could find some info on the U7 I would really appreciate it. As with why I don't do it is 'cause I am not good with those numbers and such. You would understand better than me and then translate it to a human language .