Violectric HPA V281 - Vorsprung durch Balanced (September 2023 Update: Limited Reissue Edition up for preorder!)
Dec 1, 2014 at 2:43 AM Post #916 of 5,977
I use NAD M51 in balanced mode as source but I didn't compare them directly because I already sold my Taurus. So I compared to what I recalled from my memory.
 
My Taurus was burned for 400+ hours before I sold it and it sound very good with HD800 and HE6 after 400 hours.
 
Another thing was that I used JPS AC+ power cord with Taurus but stock power cord for V281. 
 
Dec 1, 2014 at 3:49 AM Post #917 of 5,977
  I use NAD M51 in balanced mode as source but I didn't compare them directly because I already sold my Taurus. So I compared to what I recalled from my memory.
 
My Taurus was burned for 400+ hours before I sold it and it sound very good with HD800 and HE6 after 400 hours.
 
Another thing was that I used JPS AC+ power cord with Taurus but stock power cord for V281. 

 
Could you elaborate on your experiencing combining the M51 and V281? were you happy with the sound and consider keeping it long term?
 
im contemplating getting that combination (have m51 already) so very interested in hearing your opinions
 
Dec 1, 2014 at 5:22 AM Post #918 of 5,977
  HOWEVER , a thing intrigues me .. when I use the remote control to increase the volume , there is a tac tac tac sound which comes out of the chassis and not the earphone .. is this phenomenon normale ?
IS this a purely mechanical problem or a defect ?

 
Yes, thats normal if you have the relay-based volume control. There may even be some clicks through the headphones while changing volume (though never when not moving the volume knob). As Fried mentioned this is a fact of the implementation and can't be avoided.
 
Dec 1, 2014 at 7:34 AM Post #919 of 5,977
   
If you have the high end model, the volume control switches relays for every step in the volume.  
It should make the same noise when you turn the knob by hand though.  
The cheaper models won't make this noise.

Cheaper model gets less sound 
biggrin.gif

 
Dec 1, 2014 at 7:56 AM Post #920 of 5,977
With a little burn-in V281 is very good with HE6 but not so good on HD800. I think HD800 paired with my old Auralic Taurus Mk2 was better.

But maybe after 200-300 hours of burn-in it might sound better than Taurus (hopefully).

Has anyone here already pass 300 hours of burn in for v281?

 
what are the differences that made you enjoy better the taurus mk2 with the hd800? btw, single ended or balanced?
 
Dec 1, 2014 at 10:51 AM Post #921 of 5,977
I think that it is so difficult to evaluate whether a specific headamp (eg. V281) is better with a specific headphone (eg. HD800) because of variations in source components. I have a V281/HD800 combo which works very well. It now sounds even much better since I changed my source from a Sony 54000ES CD-player to a PS Audio PWT-Anedio D2 DAC combination. I strongly suspect that the Anedio D2 is the major factor that makes my headphone-based system sound even much better - especially in terms of the transient attack speed of musical sounds (eg. piano) and in terms of micro-detail retrieval. I cannot thank Project86 enough for his positive review of the Anedio D2, because it definitely influenced me into auditioning the Anedio D2, which I instantly loved.

By the way, the Anedio D2 is now available for $890 because Anedio is running a holiday sale for 1 month.

Jeff.


That sounds like a great deal. I'd have jumped on it but they don't ship outside the US :frowning2:
 
Dec 1, 2014 at 2:21 PM Post #922 of 5,977
My v281 arrived today. I'm extremely excited about testing it out with my v800 dac and my hd800. The problem is...I can't get it to work.
 
The v281 leds are all flashing on and off. I have XLR enabled, feeding it from my v800 with balanced cables. The dac is feeding the signal properly, tested it with my v200.
 
The manual says something about it though:

Quote:
Adverse DC voltage should be kept from your headphones at all
times. If DC is detected, the headphone outputs will be
disconnected, indicated by the red “MUTE” LED flashing and the
green “HEAD” LED lit. The detection interval is about five seconds.
If DC disappears during this period, the unit will resume normal
operation automatically.

 
Main difference is that head, mute and line all three are flashing. Does anyone have an idea why this is happening and how I can get my v281 to work? Thanks!
 
Dec 1, 2014 at 2:57 PM Post #923 of 5,977
If I were you I'd leave it disconnected and get touch with Violectric ASAP, something's not right (especially if the XLR feed from V800-->V200 doesn't give problems), don't risk damaging your gear.  Might just be a connection problem/error.  Bummer if this happens when you just receive new gear but better safe than sorry.
 
Dec 1, 2014 at 3:36 PM Post #925 of 5,977
  Thanks Xenophon, I've disconnected it for now and contacted Fried about the issue. Hopefully he can help me.

He will. And I'm speaking from personal experience.
 
Dec 1, 2014 at 5:07 PM Post #926 of 5,977
Contacting Fried was the right choice. The only other thing I would have suggested would have been unplug everything, move the unit to a completely different outlet (preferably on the other side of the house), and try it again - this time with nothing else connected, just the AC cable. See if it powers up normally that way or what. But maybe it will be best to wait for Fried at this point. 
 
Dec 2, 2014 at 4:31 AM Post #927 of 5,977
Reading here how different pre-gain settings people use I decided to play with it a bit, especially as at zero pre-gain my volume knob sits usually between 10 and 11. But...
In my amp the pre-gain selectors appear not to be working: whichever switch I select makes no difference at all. 
By default all switches are in down position and lifting any of them changes nothing at all. And yes - I do everything by the book.
 
Wondering if this is an isolated case - especially as it's hard to believe that people use the same headphones at the two extreme settings.
 
Dec 2, 2014 at 4:32 AM Post #928 of 5,977
  Contacting Fried was the right choice. The only other thing I would have suggested would have been unplug everything, move the unit to a completely different outlet (preferably on the other side of the house), and try it again - this time with nothing else connected, just the AC cable. See if it powers up normally that way or what. But maybe it will be best to wait for Fried at this point. 

 
Tried your suggestion. Both HEAD and MUTE leds are flashing. Doesn't seem right to me. Still waiting for Fried to respond. But your input on this is highly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Dec 2, 2014 at 4:44 AM Post #929 of 5,977
  Reading here how different pre-gain settings people use I decided to play with it a bit, especially as at zero pre-gain my volume knob sits usually between 10 and 11. But...
In my amp the pre-gain selectors appear not to be working: whichever switch I select makes no difference at all. 
By default all switches are in down position and lifting any of them changes nothing at all. And yes - I do everything by the book.
 
Wondering if this is an isolated case - especially as it's hard to believe that people use the same headphones at the two extreme settings.


Which input do you use? Pre-gain applies only to the analog in as far as I know, so a digital in (if installed) is not affected by that setting.
edit: scrap that -- manual diagrams say all inputs are affected by pre-gain.
 
Dec 2, 2014 at 4:50 AM Post #930 of 5,977
Which input do you use? PRe-gain applies only to the analog in as far as I know, so a digital in (if installed) is not affected by that setting.


I'm pretty sure that is not correct. I've not used the pre-gain much, but upon receiving the amp I set it to -12 and cranked the volume knob all the way up and found the volume to be comfortable. There's no way I could do that on the setting I use now (-6). I use the USB input.
 

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