[CAPT Deadpool]

So I have a Weller WPS18MP Solder Iron with a .03125 tip that I think will be small enough based on the webpage below on cheap tools to use for SMD work. Those of you who have built a coaster what are you using? Any soldering tips? Pun intended.

I found this webpage that should help many of us like me. Gosh these parts are so small. I think all of mine have arrived.

http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/Tools

 

[riffrafff]

So I have a Weller WPS18MP Solder Iron with a .03125 tip that I think will be small enough based on the webpage below on cheap tools to use for SMD work. Those of you who have built a coaster what are you using? Any soldering tips? Pun intended.

I found this webpage that should help many of us like me. Gosh these parts are so small. I think all of mine have arrived.

http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/Tools

Heat the leg and pad, not the solder. And it doesn't take much solder at all. Use the thinnest solder you can find, and a decent light and a loupe help.

Edit: I just looked up your tip...are you using the chisel tip or the conical one? I use a conical tip, but about half that diameter (maybe; hard to tell from photos on the web).

 

[Th3Drizzl3]

i like the Kester 331 solder myself. super easy to work with and flows really nice. doesnt need crazy high heat either. its my go to for inexpensive solder. a whole lb on amazon at times is under 20$ when you catch it on sale. also cleans up really easy. i also have pure silver solder (among a bunch of others lol) but i dont use it often on boards because it needs a lot of heat. and imo the best soldering iron for the money (79$ on sale often at fry's) is the hakko 888d. i use a 951 myself. but for the money the 888 is really hard to beat especially when on sale. easy to find a TON of tips for hakkos also.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

Heat the leg and pad, not the solder. And it doesn't take much solder at all. Use the thinnest solder you can find, and a decent light and a loupe help.

Edit: I just looked up your tip...are you using the chisel tip or the conical one? I use a conical tip, but about half that diameter (maybe; hard to tell from photos on the web).

Conical. I saw a 50$ one with a tip your size on amazon. Think it was the WES120. The link i post said to use 1/32 aka .03125. They recommended a $100+ Weller that had analog controled temp

 

[cricket]

Your iron and tip will be fine for the small components. The regulators may require something a little heftier.

I will strongly recommend a flux pen for the SMD devices, only. Apply the flux to the pads and hold the component in place with tweezers. Melt a tiny amount of solder on the iron's tip and touch it to the joint. The flux will let the solder flow. How much is a "tiny amount"? You'll have to practice. I just sort of brush the tip against the solder. I also run my iron pretty hot, around 700F, which reduces "dwell time" on the joint. With the flux, it's almost a gentle tap and release.

What kind of flux? For a beginner, I'd recommend a flux pen with no-clean flux. After soldering, scrub the flux off with an old toothbrush and alcohol. Resist the urge to use the flux on through-hole components, especially parts like switches, pots, and connectors where you wouldn't want it to intrude.

 

[riffrafff]

I use this soldering station, with two irons. And this one for de-soldering. The first one uses RF energy to heat the tips; coming up to 750° F from cold in about six seconds. Plus, the tip/elements can be changed out whilst hot (with a bit of caution, of course).

 

[Th3Drizzl3]

nice! ive been eyeing the 203 for a while. my 951 so far has done everything ive used it for so i just have been putting it off.

 

[riffrafff]

nice! ive been eyeing the 203 for a while. my 951 so far has done everything ive used it for so i just have been putting it off.

Both are decent stations, indeed. I use the dual-iron version because I deal with a lot of RF power transistors, and sometimes need two high-wattage irons at the same time, on the same part.

 

[cricket]

Here's a video I found that shows the method I use. Soldering doesn't start until about 2:30. Note the relative size of the tip compared to the component.

 

[Paladin79]

This is all good info, personally I use .025 or smaller Kester rosin core solder so I do not have to flux separately. I tin the pads before attaching the components. I use Weller Stations but I do keep a Hakko nearby with a larger tip. There are very pointed tips that Weller puts out that fit my WTCPT station. The tips control the heat, one marked with an 8 is 800 degrees f, 7 is 700 f, 700 is fine for this application. I have built five working Coaster boards with this iron, tip combination and all are fine. I do use a magnifier light, tweezers, etc. I start with the smallest items first so I am not trying to fit them around other parts. The through hole stuff is pretty simple at the end so I leave it for last. I use a meter to check continuity for all small connections. Also you will need either solder wick or a solder sucker of some kind. It is very easy to get solder where it does not belong on the small three legged transistors. Either of those things will remove solder shorts.

 

[Paladin79]

My latest build, a four headphone rack that can hold a Schiit Coaster amp or brass gears as a center piece. All materials are either copper, brass or oak.

 

[kimbo]

As we have been discussing SMD soldering I have a question re the regulators. I have not soldered any SDM with rear pads before. Is there any special technique?

Or do I just ensure that I have flux on the PCB pad and let the solder flow as usual?

 

[cricket]

The regulators and SOT-23 (tiny) transistors, would have benefited from oversize pads for easier hand soldering. I applied flux to all regulator pads and soldered the legs first, making sure the tab was flush to the board. There was barely enough of the large pad exposed that I could get a well tinned tip against the pad and regulator tab, then add some extra solder.

 

[Paladin79]

My technique is the same except I use rosin core solder, tin all pads before installing components and especially on the tiny transistors and led, I check for continuity with an ohmmeter. As mentioned previously I keep a blank board close by so I can see where all etches go.

 

[kimbo]

Thanks guys.
[I see my dyslexia has struck my post. Remember....Dyslexia Rules! KO!]

PS. If there are any Aussies thinking about ordering a board, I have a spare pair. PM me if you are interested