[Harry Manback]

I haven't decided on whether to mount the tubes horizontally or vertically yet. It's VERY microphonic, but this really doesn't bother me that much. I just don't mess with it much while listening, so it's ok. I'm working on a case design that I will print using wood based filament.

I'm listening on HD58X headphones. I'm feeding the amp with a ODAC rev B and iTunes on my mac.

Sound impressions:

Better than expected. Based on Jason's writings, I expected it to be noisy and have bad channel imbalance from the combination of tube mis-match, and the volume pot used. I must have gotten double lucky there. Channel balance sounds ok going off of what I hear. I don't know if I could tell tubes from solid state, so I won't get all crazy with describing the lush tubey sound. It basically just sounds right. I can hear details, and everything sounds balanced. Lows aren't too low, highs aren't too high and mids are mids.

I could be happy with this as my everyday headphone amp. I may build a 2nd and use off-board RCA jacks, and a full size headphone jack. I will definately use a switch with a taller toggle. Mine is a tiny bit below the 2 caps it sits between. That will probably be off board too.

Kudos to Schiit for making a fun and good sounding coaster.

Here is my first stab at a simple case for it. Not really creative or fun, but it will protect it until I can think up something more interesting.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

I haven't decided on whether to mount the tubes horizontally or vertically yet. It's VERY microphonic, but this really doesn't bother me that much. I just don't mess with it much while listening, so it's ok. I'm working on a case design that I will print using wood based filament.

I'm listening on HD58X headphones. I'm feeding the amp with a ODAC rev B and iTunes on my mac.

Sound impressions:

Better than expected. Based on Jason's writings, I expected it to be noisy and have bad channel imbalance from the combination of tube mis-match, and the volume pot used. I must have gotten double lucky there. Channel balance sounds ok going off of what I hear. I don't know if I could tell tubes from solid state, so I won't get all crazy with describing the lush tubey sound. It basically just sounds right. I can hear details, and everything sounds balanced. Lows aren't too low, highs aren't too high and mids are mids.

I could be happy with this as my everyday headphone amp. I may build a 2nd and use off-board RCA jacks, and a full size headphone jack. I will definately use a switch with a taller toggle. Mine is a tiny bit below the 2 caps it sits between. That will probably be off board too.

Kudos to Schiit for making a fun and good sounding coaster.

Here is my first stab at a simple case for it. Not really creative or fun, but it will protect it until I can think up something more interesting.

Can you provide more details on the off board RCA jacks? Could they be mounted horizontally, but stacked vertically on the coaster (i.e. left on bottom/coaster and right mounted above it? Could you provide part links if you find a way or on how you already described? Edit: So I found this PJRAS1X2S01AUX at mouser. It is through hole. How could we attapt it to the coaster?

Can you provide part #s for the full size headphone jack? And how you are connecting it? I found this

ACJS-MHD985 on Mouser which is interesting.

I found both green and red leds that I think can be subbed in for the amber ones. I'll post a link later.

I also found a potential Cap upgrade for the 470s and ordered them. UKW1V471MPD Arrow and Mouser have them.

I don't have any cases yet. Please keep posting about your case designs and how you are doing it. I have don't access to or experience using CAD or 3D printing. I might hit you up for a case or two if you don't mind.

 

[Paladin79]

Yeah I know I can get the BOM and schematic on the Schiit site, I just get really busy at times so I did not go to the site.

I have used 1/4 watt and even half watt standard resistors on those pads. What I do is just stand the resistor straight up so it has two legs sticking out the bottom, then I bend little "feet" onto the bottoms of the legs, these are maybe 2 mm long and I solder those to the pads. It makes for a very stable and secure method of mounting them. One lead is of course bent across the body of the resistor so I have the two legs, I can trim it back so it does not stick up very far. I did the same thing when I used some ceramic caps in place of the 10 ufd that are so hard to come by right now. What I tend not to do is let one part keep me from completing a board. Naturally I know about combining resistors in series and parallel but I have not had to resort to that yet lol.

 

[Harry Manback]

Can you provide more details on the off board RCA jacks? Could they be mounted horizontally, but stacked vertically on the coaster (i.e. left on bottom/coaster and right mounted above it? Could you provide part links if you find a way or on how you already described? Edit: So I found this PJRAS1X2S01AUX at mouser. It is through hole. How could we attapt it to the coaster?

Can you provide part #s for the full size headphone jack? And how you are connecting it?

I found both green and red leds that I think can be subbed in for the amber ones. I'll post a link later.

I also found a potential Cap upgrade for the 470s and ordered them. UKW1V471MPD Arrow and Mouser have them.

I don't have any cases yet. Please keep posting about your case designs and how you are doing it. I have don't access to or experience using CAD or 3D printing. I might hit you up for a case or two if you don't mind.

By off board I meant that I would run wires from the board to wherever I mounted those parts, instead of soldering the parts directly to the board. I usually buy connectors and such are markertech.com. Very reasonable prices and shipping. They sell Rean/Neutrik and the other big name brands. You can also get some nice Mogami wire there too.

I'd be glad to share/print something for you guys/gals. I will upload the files to thingiverse.com too.

 

[Harry Manback]

Just thought of a good name for this product. The Schiit Phuck (pronounced puck). The accompanying dac will be called the Dam. As a set, you'd have a Schiit Phuck Dam.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

By off board I meant that I would run wires from the board to wherever I mounted those parts, instead of soldering the parts directly to the board. I usually buy connectors and such are markertech.com. Very reasonable prices and shipping. They sell Rean/Neutrik and the other big name brands. You can also get some nice Mogami wire there too.

I'd be glad to share/print something for you guys/gals. I will upload the files to thingiverse.com too.

Thank you.

So if I understand you correctly you will use narrow gauge wire to connect them to coaster and attach/if them to the case. What I don't understand then is which wires go where when you swap for the other ports/jacks.

Further what if you wanted to try to use 1 or 2 coasters to make a balanced head amp what would you have to change? I realize the ohms output would double if I understand right and I guess you'd have to match the tubes and coasters (pairs of tubes). Also not sure how volume would be controlled. After all I have 4 coaster boards and no warrenty to break so I'd like to learn this stuff.

 

[Harry Manback]

Thank you.

So if I understand you correctly you will use narrow gauge wire to connect them to coaster and attach/if them to the case. What I don't understand then is which wires go where when you swap for the other ports/jacks.

Further what if you wanted to try to use 1 or 2 coasters to make a balanced head amp what would you have to change? I realize the ohms output would double if I understand right and I guess you'd have to match the tubes and coasters (pairs of tubes). Also not sure how volume would be controlled. After all I have 4 coaster boards and no warrenty to break so I'd like to learn this stuff.

Right on with the narrow gauge wire. As for the connector pinouts, I would have to look at the datasheet for the connector to see which pins do what.

I have zero idea about how you would make a balanced amp out of two of these. That would be a Schiit Double Phuck.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

so the part we are using for the jack is https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/670/sj1-355xng_series-1312965.pdf the 3555NG version.

If you look at page 2 bottom right corner you will see what the five pins on the connector are for. That means that on the schiit schematic 1 ground, 2 Left, 3 Right, 4 Left Switch, 5 Right Switch.

Another lesson learned for me.

 

[Paladin79]

I haven't decided on whether to mount the tubes horizontally or vertically yet. It's VERY microphonic, but this really doesn't bother me that much. I just don't mess with it much while listening, so it's ok. I'm working on a case design that I will print using wood based filament.

I have had the best luck with laying the tubes down on dampening material.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Isolate-It...04-x-4-x-6in/323319114473?hash=item4b47522ae9

This is what Jason recommended and I happened to own some.

I can help with any pinout on connectors when I get freed up more. I would be careful just running wires to off board RCA connectors, most all wire associated with them is shielded like coaxial cable. The very least you best do is use twisted pair, that is a form of shielding.

I will post results when I start working with two coaster boards but balanced is not an easy option and you are better off with another DIY kit IMHO.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

Ok, the only balanced DIY kit I know of is the Bottle Head Mainline. But looking at it I can't help but think it needs more tubes. I realize that is silly but anyway.

I did some more reading on balanced. I reread some stuff I read before. It is starting to sink in better now. I also have a much better understanding now of the Coaster schematic.

Normally I can learn without hands on, but I guess in the case of electronics hands on really helps for me.

 

[Paladin79]

You can bridge the outputs on some amps to increase power. I am considering using two separate Coaster boards and seeing what I can do once I read up on some theory.

I still have these thoughts about building headphones with a Coaster amp on each side powering the left and right channels or I could do it single entry with one amp but two would look better. Maybe incorporate a clear plastic dome. I have an extra set of rugged dual entry headphones that I have modified before but the cup is rather small for a Coaster. These were closed headphones, 32 ohm, I turned them into 250 ohm open headphones for use with a specific amp. I need something larger like HifiMan but they should be closed and probably require less power.

 

[100VoltTube]

Mouser lists the 2SA1312-BL as out of stock and has a lead time of a couple months. Where did all of you get your 2SA1312-BLs from? Digikey doesn't stock them either.

 

[Paladin79]

There is an alternate part number that Digikey lists. I will post it later on today. I should be trying some soon. I talked to their technical people about the part and it should be fine.

2SA1163-BL is a possible alternate source, I grabbed some and when possible I will test them.

 

[riffrafff]

Ha! I found a companion for the coaster!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magic-Eye-Audio-visualizer-driver-board-Suits-EM84-tube-or-Equivalent-VU-Meter/152545581369?hash=item23846cd939

Erf. Sorry 'bout the size.

 

[Paladin79]

Ha! I found a companion for the coaster!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magic-Eye-Audio-visualizer-driver-board-Suits-EM84-tube-or-Equivalent-VU-Meter/152545581369?hash=item23846cd939

Erf. Sorry 'bout the size.

I have some magic eye tubes, I just need to make sure they match up. Good find!