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Originally Posted by Karlosak /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Since the MUX receiver utilizes transformer coupled inputs and outputs, it doesn't really matter. Personally I like to isolate all chassis connectors, then run a star ground scheme inside, whose central point is connected via a ground loop breaker to chassis ground. Some people left the audio ground floating, but it's better when the audio ground potential is defined to the earth's one.
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interesting, you know I had been toying with the idea of star grounding the cable and dac shields to an outside ground source, like tying it to a big length of 12AWG UPOCC copper which is then clamped to the plumbing. its a bit pie in the sky, but I have heard good results from a friends system that uses this method. only viable if you are building everything in the system.
also just before reading your post had come across the concept (again) of transformer coupling; well that makes for a good SE implementation as well; nice
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Just pay attention where your grounds run (i.e. with a digital multimeter). Make sure there are no duplicate paths. For example, if you use the MUX's SPDIF output you should ground the board, but when using the I2S output, it's already grounded with the GND wire. Make sure that the analog and digital ground never mix, they should be connected at one single point (look in the buffalo manual, they may be already connected on the board). |
good info/reminders, thanks for that.
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It is advisable to tie the shield on both cable ends. If the grounding is done well, there should be no problems. |
exactly my point
, but even many experienced builders do not do this, because of the nightmare of other people's gear/designs. so the implementation is often kinda half-assed
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Just imagine what a disconnected shield will do with 4-channel balanced amps that are not truly differential (beta22, ...) |
yowsa yeah
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The copper foil around the trannies won't help any purpose. If the shielding isn't made of high permeability material, it won't stop the magnetic interference. Better use some mu-metal foil. I personally use the MagnetShield. |
cool, i'll check that out, I actually have some Mumetal around here, but probably not enough, also have some ERS tape, foil is just something I have plenty of and I guess i'm trying to apply some cable logic to areas that it doesnt apply.
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If you need a guidance with the shielding, look at this thread over at diyaudio. The image bellow is IMHO the absolute best way to ground components though a bit overkill from a safety standpoint:
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cool, will try and find the time to study that properly; thats the problem with this is that i'm going to be impatient to get it done, but at the same time i'm sooooo busy with my cables biz ATM that finding the time to get it done properly is going to be difficult. I can just hobble it together temporarily though I guess (terminal blocks) and work on the final design/chassis for however long it takes.
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If you need a single chassis just mentally "join" the two boxes together and remove the green chassis/safety ground for the second box. When designing your star grounding scheme, picture all the currents that are flowing through the ground. If they are higher power or peaky and noisy in nature, they should have their separate conductor. |
yeah well i'd love to do a 2 box build, but i've already redlined my budget on this as it is, getting 2 cases of this quality done would just be far too costly. suppose the PSU chassis could be done on the cheap though.
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As to the manual, if you expect better step-by-step instructions a la AMB's projects, you expect in vain. It would be nice if Brian or Russ found the time and improved the instructions, but they're more than busy now with shipping the Buffalos (hey, when is mine going to ship? ) |
no no, i've come into this knowing its not like an AMB project and i'm kinda glad it isnt; not because they dont do a good job, because they do a great job, but I kinda wanted to be thrown in the deep end a little more with this. All the same though, something in between would be nice. not so much a step by step, because thats kinda like drawing by numbers, but just more complete documentation. You are totally right; those guys are run off their feet as it is and its great that this even exists, so i'm not complaining. just trying to get my head in the right space for doing this the right way, with the constraints that I have on my time and trying to keep my ambition in check a little.
thanks for taking the time to put together such a great and helpful post man; much appreciated.