You can use also 5pin plugs, but never ever put them to a Pro Output!
The 6th pin is only a mechanicl protection, so that you can't put a normal Lambda with 230v to a pro output with 540v Bias.
Yep, that is what I bought on ebay a couple hours ago, with 6 pins. Thanks for the tip about soldering wires on the pins!
I also found a message in a thread here or on HC of a guy who cut to size pins from 4mm thick copper, and then encased them in epoxy. Next time I need a plug I will try to replicate this approach.
That's what I did first with myHE60:
Looks goox, but it didn't work. So the guy who makes the plugs, toll me to solder directly to the Pins and it was fine. Not easy to get the cables to the right place. But I think the cable of the Lambda is more flexibel. Good luck!
Last question before I get down to the job of reterminating: how do I determine polarity on the driver contacts? Is there some sort of symbol or convention?
So I opened them (took some convincing as the baffles had been glued to the cups), and sure enough the solder joint on the negative left pin had broken.
Removed the crumbling yellow foam and black mesh, flushed the solder joint and so far so good. Thanks a lot for your help!
This is my left driver, I used the multimeter to figure out positive/negative. Dropping it here for posterity in case someone else has my same issue.
Edit: Spritzer explained via PM that the side towards the ear is positive. My headphones are wired in reverse, whoever recabled them must have messed it up. He also suggested to remove the red silistor which can cause problems with age.
Looks good!
I had the problem with the baffles glued to the frame too. Couldn't save them, but they had unbalance and some other wholes in the dustcover already.
Instead of the black mesh I used the dustfilter of a vaccum cleaner in a 404. Worked pretty fine!
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