[yaluen]

  if it was a 100V unit originally, you will have to pop open the plastic top and resolder
the wires. If it was a 240V unit, you will be ok.

 

  This one's indeed a "100V ONLY" unit, an early revision A. How should I be soldering the leads once I get the plastic cap off?
 
EDIT: Would this (http://www.head-fi.org/t/223263/the-stax-thread-new/23610#post_9623345) be the procedure you're referring to?

 
Well, I cracked the plastic case open and look what greeted me:
 

 
Guess I lucked out and am spared a delicate soldering job! Am I correct in assuming that all is fine with the leads into the transformer windings and all I have to do at this point is rewire the voltage selector socket as detailed in spritzer's post mentioned previously?

 

[cucera]

good luck finding one though...

i've got one

 

[jaycalgary]

I just bought a pair of Stax DA100M amps from Japan fairly blind. Looks to me like some of the Rca jacks were replaced at some point. Hoping they will be in good working modern condition. I can't make total sense of the Japanese translation but it sounded to me like I bought a pair in good working condition from probably a reseller with 1 slightly bent speaker jack. I bought off Buyee. Would somebody that understands Japanese well mind taking a look at the Buyee link and or the Yahoo link and briefly help me understand how it was described and if the seller seems like he would really know if they work properly? I am just really curious not that it make a difference now. I am thinking they will be amps for Apogee ribbon speakers one day.
 
http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/k171454526    http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k171454526

 

[schorsch]

Also located in Germany

Regards Georg

What about a meet

 

[davidsh]

Also located in Germany

Regards Georg

What about a meet

Southern part of Denmark so North Germany might be manageable 

 

[schorsch]

Rhineland Platinate
Near Kaiserslautern

Regards Georg

 

[spritzer]

All the SRM1 MK2 are good but the older A and B versions are not only older but were built with cheaper parts. The late C Version was improved and especially the pp with 2 pro bias outputs.

 
That's pretty much completely incorrect.  The letters mean absolutely nothing and the serial numbers even less.  The parts used just represent the time when the units were built and how long the lifetime of the design was. 

 

[troymadison]

I love the SR-407 with SR-507 pads quite a bit more than I thought I would. Is the SR-507 itself any different or better?

 

[Mr.Sneis]

Supposed to be the same drivers but different housing and cable and pads.  The drivers in 507 are also press fit rather than adhesive fit.

 

[NoPants]

the headband

 

[troymadison]

  Supposed to be the same drivers but different housing and cable and pads.  The drivers in 507 are also press fit rather than adhesive fit.

Did you like the LNS better?

 

[Mr.Sneis]

So far yes and by a good margin.  The problem is this pair of LNS are quite old and in pretty rough shape.  Very enjoyable listen.  They appear almost identical to the 407 but have rotting foam, different drivers, and fatter pads.

 

[astrostar59]

Anyone bought recently? What is your Stax 009 serial number and when did you buy?
 
I am trying to date a pair here.
 
Thanks guys

 

[takato14]

  Anyone bought recently? What is your Stax 009 serial number and when did you buy?
 
I am trying to date a pair here.
 
Thanks guys

Aren't the serial numbers picked at random?

 

[georgep]

Why would you think the serials numbers are random? Maybe the serial sticker is not applied exactly sequentially with the the exact order in which a headphone is made, but I doubt they are using some random number generator to pick the serial numbers.