[Martinrm]

Just picked up a SRM-232S off ebay from Japan, and i'm wondering about converting to 120V AC for use in the US. Has anyone rewired their transformer and can post a pic of the jumpers/wiring. Trying to understand what was meant by this post in a long forgotten stax thread. 

And Spritzer just, once again, shared the good news to all on how to re-wire the SRM-323S:
 
------------------- from Spritzer ---------------------------------------
 
1,3,6 is definitely 100 volts
 
2,4,6 is definitely 120 volts
 
3,5 is definitely 220 volts
 
2,5 is definitely 240 volts
 
So desolder the links at 1 and 3 and add links to 2 and 4 once the wires (orange & blue wire) have been re-installed.
------------------------------------ enjoy! ----------------------------------

 
 
 
Wiring diagram:
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srm323s.pdf
 
Also, maybe someone will know. Is the earpad shape the same on the SR-207 as the SR-307's? I'd like to get this adapter http://www.modhouseaudio.com/stax-earpad-adapter/xbd7diflbdflc39z62hgswzxgqship and put ZMF pads on. 
 
After a long while of being interested i'm finally getting my first Stax setup, it may not be a SR-009 but i'm still super excited. Cannot wait for it to come in. In the mean time i'll make some preparations

 

[Michgelsen]

Is it smart to have exposed pins where +580VDC bias and 1800VAC P-P signals are present?

 
I once made a ghetto-style HE60-Stax adapter from blank circuit board and pins from molex connectors, without insulation, and while listening I once thought: what's that soft tingeling sensation in my fingers? Apparently I was touching the adapter and barely noticed. This was out of a SRM-T1 though, so nowhere near the power of a Blue Hawaii, but I was surprised that it barely had any effect.

 

[Jones Bob]

Pour a beer on it and see what happens.

 

[JimL11]

   
I once made a ghetto-style HE60-Stax adapter from blank circuit board and pins from molex connectors, without insulation, and while listening I once thought: what's that soft tingeling sensation in my fingers? Apparently I was touching the adapter and barely noticed. This was out of a SRM-T1 though, so nowhere near the power of a Blue Hawaii, but I was surprised that it barely had any effect.

Probably a Blue Hawaii would be no different.  There are two sources of high voltage:  the bias supply and the audio signal.  The bias supply is +580 volts, but it goes through a 5 megohm resistor, which means that if your body grounded it there would be less than 0.2 mA going through you - just a mild tingle.  As for the audio signal, if you are playing it at the same level the T1 and Blue Hawaii should give the same voltage and current output - so should be no different.

 

[HiFiIsExpensive]

Hello guys, can anyone here recommend me a good DAC for my SRM007t and SR007 mk1 set up? I'm currently using the Apogee duet as a DAC and I'm looking to upgrade to something that is not a production card. Cheers!

 

[axle_69]

  Hello guys, can anyone here recommend me a good DAC for my SRM007t and SR007 mk1 set up? I'm currently using the Apogee duet as a DAC and I'm looking to upgrade to something that is not a production card. Cheers!

I guess you would want to take advantage of the inherently balanced design of the earspeakers, take a look at the Schiit Gungnir Multibit and Yggdrasil. You may also want to take a look at the Holo Spring, balanced as well (if NOS mode is your thing... it seems upsampling in the DAC isn't as good as in the Schiit DACs, also not that sure about a smooth analogue filter without upsampling, although you can upsample in the computer).

 

[Jaab]

Thanks Tinkerer for your reply,
yes I had adjusted the biais and the ofset for both, after your reply I decided to change the power cable of the srm1 because it was a Japanese version (2 wires). I adjusted the biais and ofset again but nothing have changed for the humm!  but I noticed that the adjustment of the left signal was difficult because constantly changing (also the range) in comparison, the right signal was very stable. Perhaps some components have to be changed too. I will check the diodes etc

 

[Tinkerer]

Thanks Tinkerer for your reply,


yes I had adjusted the biais and the ofset for both, after your reply I decided to change the power cable of the srm1 because it was a Japanese version (2 wires). I adjusted the biais and ofset again but nothing have changed for the humm!  but I noticed that the adjustment of the left signal was difficult because constantly changing (also the range) in comparison, the right signal was very stable. Perhaps some components have to be changed too. I will check the diodes etc

 


I had something kind of similar when I got an old SRA-12S. It was a leaky resistor causing a hiss. I rebuilt the whole output boards anyway so it wasn't a big deal trying to hunt down a specific one, but I'd definitely check those old carbon resistors in the SRM-1.

 

[deuter]

Jumped into the electrostatics recently with a pair of SR 007 mk1.

Given the age of the headphones the elastic looks a little stretched.
What I have done to avoid any further stretching is to flip the leather headband on the side when on my Omega replica stand.
So there is no further tension on the stand.

The question I had was how prone is the elastic to loosening and also where's can I get a replacement if required.

 

[Tinkerer]

It's just plain old elastic and the headbands of the 007 Mk I are well known for doing that. The original stuff can just be shortened with a scissor every few months to make it the right legth again. And when you get tired of that, some regular newer elastic can be swapped in for a couple bucks. Only thing that matters is the width and it's a standard size.

I put new elastic in mine about nine months ago and haven't had adjust it at all since then.

 

[deuter]

It's just plain old elastic and the headbands of the 007 Mk I are well known for doing that. The original stuff can just be shortened with a scissor every few months to make it the right legth again. And when you get tired of that, some regular newer elastic can be swapped in for a couple bucks. Only thing that matters is the width and it's a standard size.



I put new elastic in mine about nine months ago and haven't had adjust it at all since then.

 


Any advise on steps to change the elastic, what you mean by cut the elastic?

Also where can I get it?

 

[Tinkerer]

The elastic is just attached to a plastic peg under the headband mount. You undo the two phillips screws, cut the excess length, attach the elastic back to the peg and then screw the mount back to the frame.

As for the elastic, it's just regular elastic. You can get it from any clothing store or online. 20mm width band if I remember right.

 

[deuter]

The elastic is just attached to a plastic peg under the headband mount. You undo the two phillips screws, cut the excess length, attach the elastic back to the peg and then screw the mount back to the frame.



As for the elastic, it's just regular elastic. You can get it from any clothing store or online. 20mm width band if I remember right.

 


That is very helpful.

Thank You

 

[TraneTime]

not cheap
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13E1-ITT-STC-LOGO-NOS-2-PIECES-VALVE-TUBE-RARE-ITEM-/171936068243

Yeah.  But then neither is the BHSE.

 

[paradoxper]

What should have been.