The Stax Thread III
Sep 13, 2016 at 4:35 AM Post #9,886 of 25,675
Headamp.com will be performing the feedback modification to the Stax SRM-727II. 
I listen at low levels and after much research do believe this amp will have to do.
I'm currently using the Stax SRM-006TII amp and was looking for a Solid State Stax.
I'm happy with the 006TII for the 009 but I'm hoping this is an upgrade for both, my 007 and 009.
 
Sep 13, 2016 at 5:13 AM Post #9,887 of 25,675
  Just ordered a black STAX SRM-727II from headamp.com and Justin will be modifying it for me. 
Will be using this for my SR-007 and SR-009.  Thoughts?


I currently own stax 007t, 006t, 727(modded by me), 717, 252s. modded 727 sounds most refined than others, but slightly bright and hard.
006t tamed 009 treble very well. so Im currently using 006t for 009. modded 727 doesn't make big jump IMO.
and Stax phone demand tubes in somewhere audio chain imho, i agree with astrostar's previous posts.
..
 
Sep 13, 2016 at 5:30 AM Post #9,888 of 25,675
  Just ordered a black STAX SRM-727II from headamp.com and Justin will be modifying it for me. 
Will be using this for my SR-007 and SR-009.  Thoughts?

 
With feedback mod it is the best Stax amp currently available. Should you want more, you'll need to go for one of Kevin Gilmore's designs.
I think the difference between a modified 727 and a 717 would be small, and I can tell you from experience that I have been happy with a 717 driving my 007 for many years now. There is some room for improvement, but ever since I have this combo, I have not felt the need to upgrade anymore. You should be fine for a long while.
 
Sep 13, 2016 at 6:23 AM Post #9,889 of 25,675
I'll let you all know when I get the amp...I kind of thought maybe it's a lateral jump
but you know how this hobby is....I gotta try Solid state on my Stax and I really do 
think the 007 mk2 will benefit from the Solid state.  The 009 IMHO is simply perfect 
with no harshness to my ears and at my levels....nothing in my inventory is ever gonna
touch them but you know I'll have some fun trying the 727 II.  I can only dream of the 
bhse but forever is too long....some day...it will be mine.  Until then...I'm very content and
have been.
 
PS.  while the 006t II is good, It needs at least 5-10 minutes to achieve maximum potential for
every listening session...there are times I just don't want to wait so hopefully SS will cure
my impatience.  Time - it's so precious, right.
 
The chain for me stax:
 
Lossless Flac or DSD from Mediacenter (Macbook pro) -> DAC2 HGC -> Stax SRM-006T II -> SR-009 / SR-007MK2
 
Note to RUSH: 2 more studio albums please - Limited touring please
 
Thanks Geddy, Alex and Neil
 
Sep 13, 2016 at 12:37 PM Post #9,890 of 25,675
Sep 13, 2016 at 2:32 PM Post #9,893 of 25,675
BTW, you guys can buy the 007II from Justin and get him to mod them into KGST as well.  He told me it is a better choice.
 
Sep 13, 2016 at 3:27 PM Post #9,894 of 25,675
  Are the 009 earpads difficult to replace? Do you have to disassemble anything to do it?

 
The 009 pads when installed are between 2 metallic disks that are held together by 6 screws that press the pad's leather flap between them.
 
1. First you need to get the dust screen out. It has a plastic reinforcement ring for the outer perimeter, and the cloth is tensioned on that. Just put your finger under the pad until you feel the edge of the dust screen, then bend you finger to bend the screen, until it comes out. It will bend in about 90 degrees but it's quite flexible and you can restore it.
 
2. When the dust screen is out, you see the metallic grill that protects the drivers. You can try the headphones without the cloth grill. It will sound more open and more clear in the treble, but quantity will be too much. [If you are after modifying the treble characteristics, at this point you can experiment with different kinds of cloth for the grill.]
 
3. Slightly lift and pull away the pads with a finger. That will reveal the screws that hold the metallic disks together. Loosen the 6 screws so that the  disks come 2-4 mm apart. Start with one, then move to the opposite one etc, i.e. go around the perimeter several times and do one rotation on the screws the first time.
Once the screws are loose, put your finger under the pads, and pull it out until the circular flap comes out from between the two disks. Do that on the circumference and the pad is off.
 
[ Mods time. After the pad is off, secure the screws again temporarily so that the 2 disks are not loose any more. For testing, it is enough to change the pads and then just press them against the driver and carefully put it on your head. It does sound slightly different when the pad is fully assembled, but it's really close and much better for testing than to assemble/disassemble the pads so many times.] 
 
To assemble, do the reverse steps:
1. loosen the screws again so that the disks are 3-4 mm apart, then
 
2. insert the pads's flap into the gap, going through the circumference. After it's on, pay attention to the orientation of the pads, and the position of the masking plastic strips in the bottom of the drivers where the opening for the cable is (you will see on the spot what I am talking about).
 
3. After everything is in position, secure the screws, starting with one but don't tighten it yet, then secure the opposite side, and so on, jump always to the other side, just like when you are assembling a car wheel. This is to get the pressure even.
 
4. After the pad is on, reinsert the dust screen. This is the most tricky part :). I usually lift the pads with one hand, and push one edge of the dust grill in place. Then I bend the grill and push the edge which is about 90-120 degrees from the previous spot. The remaining edge is quite much bent by this time, but don't be afraid of just pushing it into place. It slides on the metallic grill to go under the pads. After it's pushed in, go around the circumference of the grill and even out the plastic reinforcement.
 
Sep 13, 2016 at 9:09 PM Post #9,896 of 25,675
Sep 13, 2016 at 9:45 PM Post #9,897 of 25,675
A used KGSShv of some type can usually be had for about $2200 to $2600 if you keep your eyes open, vs. $1590 it looks like for the Stax. Just my 2 cents for how to get a virtually end-game amp on the cheap...
You can see the offerings (4 of them) here (usually referencing headfi ads now expired) here asking $2350 to $2700:
http://www.hifishark.com/search?q=mjolnir
 
Here:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/754815/full-size-500v-kgsshv-built-by-spritzer-mjolnir-audio
 
Sep 13, 2016 at 9:52 PM Post #9,898 of 25,675
  A used KGSShv of some type can usually be had for about $2000 to $2400 if you keep your eyes open, vs. $1590 it looks for the Stax. Just my 2 cents for how to get a virtually end-game amp on the cheap...

Good point. The KGGSHV is better...but if you can snag a used 727II and perform the mod, you can bet all set for a bit less.
 
Sep 13, 2016 at 11:04 PM Post #9,900 of 25,675
I don't think the HV is really endgame but YMMV.

I wouldn't bother with anything between the 323S and the BHSE or Carbon.

Neither are the BHSE or Carbon...there's always the T-2. 
tongue.gif
  Hard to improve on that. 
smile.gif

 

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