The Stax Thread III
Jan 27, 2021 at 4:36 AM Post #19,726 of 25,564
that might be it honestly - i know birgir is also very much not a fan of the 353X (though i've never personally listened to it)

on the other hand though, i feel like you can still get the main character of the 007mk1 even on underpowered amps and it's not like the fr will change dramatically aside from subbass/treble extension

Actually 353X is a "Stax Mafia" approved amp. FR doesn't change(almost to none) with different amps, all Stax amps(including KG designs) sound "right" at a certain volume level. That level is too low for some of them. Such amps, even at slightly audible levels, they can't deliver a clean signal with good integrity. That is mainly what makes amps sound different. If you'd compare all amps while listening at 35-45db probably all would sound almost same. Then again, power is just a part of the equation of how amps will sound. How the signal processed in an amp plays also a big role. Output stage, power supply, chosen components, quality of components... everything plays a role in how much detail, soundstage etc. can an amp deliver.
 
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Jan 27, 2021 at 5:37 AM Post #19,727 of 25,564
I've read Stax marketing copy that suggests they tune their amps slightly differently?

Anyway, spent some of yesterday listening to the 009S on an interesting little amp, the Airbow 253S lol

It sounds very similar to the 353X as expected, but I did get it to I guess "distort" at high volumes, nothing I would listen to in real life. I'd do more comparisons with the 353X but I just sold the 009S so don't want to use it anymore of course. The little Airbow amp was intended for the Baby Stax 003 MK2 I have on the way, I guess I'm done with high end Stax for now, but still want that Stax sound from time to time.
 
Jan 27, 2021 at 5:48 AM Post #19,728 of 25,564
There's a whole thread in headcase where Spitzer comments on his own t8000 being overprice...lol
https://www.head-case.org/forums/topic/13002-stax-srm-t8000/
and for what the second hand market is asking for for the t8000 I highly recommend people just go for a normal kgsshv non carbon or even a kgst.

What makes me laugh is since the 60s STAX have been using the same basic circuit design from SRM-1 Mk2 to SRM-3 to 313 to 323, 717/ 727 now t8000 and keep on changing the output stage and calling it another amp... where the base design are the same, its like how the Japanese still uses the F4 since the 60s and keep changing bits and parts to try to make it relevant...
Spritzer/Birgir is who I was referring to when I said "from what I have heard said" :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: .

As many point out Stax went bust and had to be saved due to costs (look at the development costs of the T2, which is basically the only amp "worthy" of the 007) so I can kind of understand why they use that business model in that there are plenty of people out there who don't know about the DIY alternatives (I didn't when I purchase my first Stax 20 years ago) and want the assurance/guarantees that purchasing from the manufacturer can bring. And don't forget that for almost all ear speakers except the 007s the Stax amplification is more than acceptable.

Fortunately there is a cottage industry to satisfy the requirements of the others. You really have to take your hat off to people like Kevin Gilmore and Birgir for putting the time and effort into developing the alternatives.
 
Jan 27, 2021 at 12:05 PM Post #19,729 of 25,564
I have a strange little technical question and I think this is the best place to ask it. I have a step-up transformer for my 006t, and a step-down transformer for my Jecklins. If I were to get an ED-1 or the Transdyn 2, I would need to either get a 2nd step-up (or down) transformer, or (I think) I could just get a power strip and plug that into the Transformer, with the two 100v devices plugged into the power strip, which would be delivering the 100v (or 230v) power to the devices.

Is there any issue using a single step-up transformer to feed into a power strip with 2+ devices plugged into the power strip?

Edit: I'm also looking at multi-outlet step-up/step-down transformers and came across a lot that are 110v/220v output but none that are 100v/220v. My 006 stepup outputs 100v, but are Stax 100v compatible with 110v?
 
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Jan 27, 2021 at 4:08 PM Post #19,730 of 25,564
I have a strange little technical question and I think this is the best place to ask it. I have a step-up transformer for my 006t, and a step-down transformer for my Jecklins. If I were to get an ED-1 or the Transdyn 2, I would need to either get a 2nd step-up (or down) transformer, or (I think) I could just get a power strip and plug that into the Transformer, with the two 100v devices plugged into the power strip, which would be delivering the 100v (or 230v) power to the devices.

Is there any issue using a single step-up transformer to feed into a power strip with 2+ devices plugged into the power strip?

Edit: I'm also looking at multi-outlet step-up/step-down transformers and came across a lot that are 110v/220v output but none that are 100v/220v. My 006 stepup outputs 100v, but are Stax 100v compatible with 110v?
I hope that I understood your question correctly but the ed-1 is switchable Voltage. All you need to do is take the back off and change where the arrow is positioned.
 

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Jan 27, 2021 at 5:00 PM Post #19,731 of 25,564
I hope that I understood your question correctly but the ed-1 is switchable Voltage. All you need to do is take the back off and change where the arrow is positioned.
Ok, that helps a lot - thank you. It saves me from needing to get a second 100v step-down transformer if I do get an ED-1. The problem still applies for me in terms of finding a Step-Up/Step Down that supports 100v and 220v outputs, particularly with 2+ outlets.

All the ones I can find are like this: https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-...p+down+transformer+220v&qid=1611784596&sr=8-7, with 110v and 220v outputs. None are 100v and 220v outputs.

110v is weird to me, too - it's not 100v for Japan nor is it 120v for North America, so I wonder if its designed to semi-work with both? or could I use plug splitter to connect two devices to one outlet?
 
Jan 28, 2021 at 10:58 AM Post #19,733 of 25,564
Ok, that helps a lot - thank you. It saves me from needing to get a second 100v step-down transformer if I do get an ED-1. The problem still applies for me in terms of finding a Step-Up/Step Down that supports 100v and 220v outputs, particularly with 2+ outlets.

All the ones I can find are like this: https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-...p+down+transformer+220v&qid=1611784596&sr=8-7, with 110v and 220v outputs. None are 100v and 220v outputs.

110v is weird to me, too - it's not 100v for Japan nor is it 120v for North America, so I wonder if its designed to semi-work with both? or could I use plug splitter to connect two devices to one outlet?

In the old times it was 110V insisted of 115/120V and in Europe it was 220V and now is 230/240V.
 
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Jan 28, 2021 at 11:23 AM Post #19,734 of 25,564
Let’s enjoy some music 🎶

DACA5EE0-842B-4ABC-9A4E-3826877212DE.jpeg
 
Jan 28, 2021 at 12:25 PM Post #19,735 of 25,564
In the old times it was 110V insisted of 115/120V and in Europe it was 220V and now is 230/240V.
I know this is off topic but I wonder is there a particular reason that they increase the voltage? So all old electric appliances will blow eventually if plug directly to grid? Or fuse will keep on blowing?lol
 
Jan 28, 2021 at 3:27 PM Post #19,736 of 25,564
I know this is off topic but I wonder is there a particular reason that they increase the voltage? So all old electric appliances will blow eventually if plug directly to grid? Or fuse will keep on blowing?lol
In my research to find a 100v and seeing whether 110v outputs would work with a 100v device, the best explanation I found was that in North America in the 40s and 50s, it was 100v, just like Japan. But as houses got the 220v washer/dryer connections, it was easier to split that in two, hence 110v. Something similar for 235 being split into 117, too. How's that for a vague half-answer?

I've decided to give up on a magical step-up/down transformer that would work for both 230v and 100v devices.
 
Jan 28, 2021 at 6:54 PM Post #19,738 of 25,564
Awesome looking system! What's the turntable/tonearms/carts? And what amp are you using w/the 007s?
I will play with 700S and T8000.
The turntable is a Pluto Audio and one of the arms is also from Pluto Audio and the other is a Dynavector 507, the cartridges are Air tight/Benz.
But at this moment is not 100% assembled it still need the motor, power supply and support... it will be something like this 😉

4D83BA9E-F92B-4138-AE21-9A16B8DDD998.jpeg
 
Jan 28, 2021 at 10:42 PM Post #19,739 of 25,564
BTW if any interested. I find appropriate head band to made a look of SR-009 model more modern and exiting. Here is:

0132312.jpg 1897629.jpg

I used a head band from Harman\Kardon CL folding headphones. It is made from metal\leather and have a paint wich looks similar to stock anodizing of SR-009 cups. Moreover, HK CL equipped with 2 (two) detuchable headbands for small and big heads, so anybody can choose one that suit his head.
Some cuts, driil, threading and good looking at the end :) Now it looks even better than SR-007
Because of very light weight of new headband, total weight of the headphones wasnt changed.
 
Jan 28, 2021 at 10:52 PM Post #19,740 of 25,564
BTW if any interested. I find appropriate head band to made a look of SR-009 model more modern and exiting. Here is:



I used a head band from Harman\Kardon CL folding headphones. It is made from metal\leather and have a paint wich looks similar to stock anodizing of SR-009 cups. Moreover, HK CL equipped with 2 (two) detuchable headbands for small and big heads, so anybody can choose one that suit his head.
Some cuts, driil, threading and good looking at the end :) Now it looks even better than SR-007
Because of very light weight of new headband, total weight of the headphones wasnt changed.
Sorry but the 009 will never look as handsome as the 007. However, I admit that headband is a cool upgrade from the stock plastic one. I just hope that the clamp is right. . . .

You should figure out a way to sand off, or paint over, that Harman logo though.
 
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