[padam]

If you are patient enough, you can find an SRM-T1 for a reasonable price, it sounds great with the SR-X Mk3, SRM-1 Mk2 is also fine for about half as much money. I also like the SRA-3S, it's tiny and it actually has a good sounding phono pre-amp built-in, it is harder to find and of course the older unit you get, the more likely they need a service.
You can plug an electret into any plug, since they only need the signal and not the bias voltage

 

[Olschl]

Thanks for the reply, Padam. I guess that's a not recommended for the SRM-313. I'll research the SRA-3S.

 

[padam]

I found it to be too cold (and the SR-X Mk3 is already not as smooth as say, an SR-Lambda, so may not be the best pairing) but I am sure there are others who think it's fine.
The SRM-1 Mk2 is less like that (and the SRM-323S/353X is even less so, more neutral, although more money and of course no normal bias anymore)

 

[AudioThief]

I'd highly consider something like the RME ADI-2 DAC.... its USB is outstanding and the sound is WAY better with Blu-ray pure audio discs than my Oppo BDP93, even though the ADI-2 can only play it @ 16bit/44.1kHz versus the 24bit/96k it should be (using digital coax because no HDMI input available)... much fuller/richer, and clean, with BLACK background...the OPPO really sounds BAD compared to it. DVD-A media plays at 24bit/96kHz through it from the Oppo though, so I also assume it will at the max 24bit/192kHz as well. RME ADI-2 DAC will do up to 32bit/768kHz / DSD256 over USB...

Plus the built in 5 band PEQ, crossfeed, tone control knobs, balance adjustment, and fully adjustable/customizeable feature set makes it completely outstanding DAC...and add to that the amp section which is great as well and you have an increfible DAC/amp with unheard of features and custimization for $1k...All in one rig DAC solution that can cover non-Electrostats as well with the headphone and separate dedicated IEM jack...

I just downloaded the Boston 'Third Stage' album from HDtracks in 24bit/96kHz FLAC late last night, but didn't listen to it on my STAX rig, was on my bedroom TH-X00PH centered rig. Very nice sounding, but don't have CD album to compare it with to see what difference there is. Want to listen to it tonight on my STAX rig.

Thank you for the suggestion and thorough reply VRacer! I really, really like this suggestion. I am surprised at the amount of features this DAC has at that price. Now to check its availability in Norway..

 

[buzzlulu]

If you are patient enough, you can find an SRM-T1 for a reasonable price, it sounds great with the SR-X Mk3, SRM-1 Mk2 is also fine for about half as much money.

Relatively new to Stax currently using L300LE/353XBK and a soon to arrive 009S
A Carbon will eventually arrive and serve as my main amp. If one wants a Tube amp to play with every now and then (and does not want to spend BHSE money) which is the best Stax tube amp - something like the T1 mentioned above - or simply a current day 007 Tube amp?

 

[SeaWo|f]

Value wise a ccs modded t1 would be hard to beat. But a KGST is a more expensive but very good option. Half the price of a BHSE. Or if you can find or commission one a KGDT would cut the price further. And finally you could look for an SRX plus.

 

[buzzlulu]

Value wise a ccs modded t1 would be hard to beat. But a KGST is a more expensive but very good option. Half the price of a BHSE. Or if you can find or commission one a KGDT would cut the price further. And finally you could look for an SRX plus.

I have been emailing with Spritzer about a Carbon. I see that he shows on his website a refurbished T1 which appears to have this modification (as per the description on his website?)
The KGST is 3 times the cost of his T1 - and double the cost of a new 007. Considering that a Carbon will be my daily driver - and a tube amp will be strictly to have a tube flavor - this is the reason for my inquiry. So are you saying that performance wise a modded T1 is considered to be better than a current day 007?

And I guess while we are at it with the questions - a T1 compared to a current 353X (already realizing one is SS vs. Tube)?

 

[SeaWo|f]

I have not seen a direct comparison between the two, but overall the modded t1 has quite positive reviews. That may be reflective ou it's value. The 007t has mixed reviews skewed toward negative.

 

[JimL11]

I am one of those 2 channel guys who prefer listening to "roomspeakers" and only use my earspeakers about 20% of my listening time. I am powering my SRX MkIIIs (and SRD-40s which I still enjoy) with an SRD-7 which is ancient, Through an Audioengine N22 from the tape-out of a Primare I32. I have asked this question before and not really gotten much of a response. My hearing is not the same in both ears and I'd like to replace the SRD-7 with something that has balance control. Because my Stax are not my primary listening interface and because I am always trying to improve the sources - a new tonearm is next on the list - I don't want to spend more than I have to; but I'd like the best value for the money I do spend, I am thinking of a SRM-313, which is circa 1999 if I am not mistaken, or a SRM-1 ( I understand the MK2 is more desirable than the MK none). Either would eliminate the N22, which I hope would be a good thing. Objectively, the SRM-313 seems like the best choice, since they seem to go for a lot less than the SRM-1s and would be less likely to need a rebuild; but I sense that the SRM-1 Mk2 is held in much higher regard. I have no use for the Pro-only socket at this time; but it is my understanding that it is safe to use it for the electrets. Can anyone confirm statement AND has anyone had experience with the 313 vs the SRM-1 vs the Mk2? Is the SRM-1 MK2 really worth the extra $500 - $1,000? Would it need a refurb? I there a better option I am unaware of? I really don't have much problem with the sound quality I am getting now. It blows away my dynamics; it's just these old ear drums.

Any of the older amps (i.e. SRM-1, SRA-3S, SRM-T1 series) which were all pre-1995 should really have all the electrolytic capacitors replaced as those are well past their design lifespan. The newer amps post-2000 lack a normal bias output socket for your SRX MkIII. The 313 was the last amp to have a normal bias socket, but it was released in 1995 so the oldest samples either need or will soon need electrolytic cap replacement.

 

[JimL11]

Value wise a ccs modded t1 would be hard to beat. But a KGST is a more expensive but very good option. Half the price of a BHSE. Or if you can find or commission one a KGDT would cut the price further. And finally you could look for an SRX plus.

Looks like the modded T1 on spritzer's web site is pretty similar to mine, so I can definitely recommend it. Or, if you can do some DIY or find someone to do it for you, the parts cost (in the US), including replacing all the capacitors, is less than $100 USD, plus the cost of a used T1. A KGDT or KGST would likely sound a bit better because of the regulated power supply, and in the case of the KGST, more powerful output stage. You'll have a hard time finding an SRX Plus because it is (so far) DIY only; AFAIK nobody is building them for sale, although @Sorrodje did commission a build.

 

[padam]

The Woo Audio GES is also a good amp, it is essentially the original Stax SRX circuit and it is available new.

But I think it is not necessarily needed, you will get adjusted to solid-state after a while, that's my opinion anyway after not listening to the SRA3S for weeks.

 

[buzzlulu]

My DIY days left the house back when I was active in Amateur Radio in the 70's. Have not picked up a soldering iron since. Hell back then IC's did not exist.
The T1 on Spritzers site looks to have been completely rebuilt. Since he did it I am sure it is up to snuff

So if one's main drive will be SS (ie Carbon or the like) - to have something inexpensive with tubes to play around with - it sounds like a T1 could be a player. A KGST is significantly more costly and the 007 (not bad price wise) has mixed reviews.

 

[SeaWo|f]

If you don't mind diy then really look at the srx plus. Parts cost is low. And it looks pretty straight forward build wise. I think jiml just updated the psu.

 

[Whitigir]

Let’s hear some more about 009S impressions !! Are we certain that “S” has lighter bass than 009 ? Or do we really need 18 years of burn-in ? LOl

 

[JimL11]

The Woo Audio GES is also a good amp, it is essentially the original Stax SRX circuit and it is available new.

But I think it is not necessarily needed, you will get adjusted to solid-state after a while, that's my opinion anyway after not listening to the SRA3S for weeks.

Actually, I believe the Woo GES is based on Kevin Gilmore's original all triode design (published in the now defunct HeadWize site;, which uses 12AX7 tubes for a single-ended grounded grid input stage, followed by a split load inverter, then grounded cathodes in the driver stage, and 6S4A plate resistor loaded outputs, all capacitor coupled except for the direct-coupled outputs. It uses 4 tubes/channel, two 12AX7s and two 6S4A

The SRX is a DIY Stax circuit using 12AT7 cross coupled cascode differential inputs which provide gain and phase inversion, cap coupled to a differential stage 6CG7/6FQ7 plate resistor loaded direct coupled outputs - completely different circuit topology from the GES. It uses 3 tubes/channel, two 12AT7s and one 6CG7, and is inherently balanced from input to output.

The SRX Plus substitutes constant current sources for the differential tail resistors at both input and output stages, plus constant current loads for the output 6SN7GTA/B tubes, which have similar electrical characteristics to the 6CG7 but higher voltage and power limits. The big advantage of constant current loads is it eliminates the wastage of signal current due to the output plate resistors, which more than doubles the effective power of the output devices.