The Reference 6SN7 Thread

[reg66]

Made a post in the 6J5 thread but will ask here too...

Basically I would like to know if dual 6J5's run at the same ratings (volts, current...) as a single 6SN7? I appreciate they are half a 6SN7, so I'm guessing yes but want to check for sure. On order is a Tor Audio Nick amp (TC amp, single 6N8S/6SN7) and I want to check I'm not gonna burn out the torroid, or anything else come to that...

Tor Audio website states 'Tube: 6N8S (analogue 6SN7) (not hybrid)' which leaves me in doubt with the 'not hybrid' part. I'll email them again if need be, but thought I'd ask here 1st, plus I really don't wanna trouble them (based in Ukraine) again unless necessary. Heck, the fact the 6SN7 is in brackets and I'm now even doubting my 6SN7 collection will be 100% fine!!

Any help, please...

 

[Isaacc7]

Believe it or not I have one black glass NU 6SN7 that has the same round plate structure as the 6F8G. I’m sure they are uncommon but they do exist.

I own some as well. Got them in a bunch of other 7n7 tubes. Frequently, large tube sellers can’t be bothered to look for specific tubes for you but they can have some jewels mixed in with their run of the mill tubes.

 

[mordy]

Made a post in the 6J5 thread but will ask here too...

Basically I would like to know if dual 6J5's run at the same ratings (volts, current...) as a single 6SN7? I appreciate they are half a 6SN7, so I'm guessing yes but want to check for sure. On order is a Tor Audio Nick amp (TC amp, single 6N8S/6SN7) and I want to check I'm not gonna burn out the torroid, or anything else come to that...

Tor Audio website states 'Tube: 6N8S (analogue 6SN7) (not hybrid)' which leaves me in doubt with the 'not hybrid' part. I'll email them again if need be, but thought I'd ask here 1st, plus I really don't wanna trouble them (based in Ukraine) again unless necessary. Heck, the fact the 6SN7 is in brackets and I'm now even doubting my 6SN7 collection will be 100% fine!!

Any help, please...

Don't worry - two 6J5GT have the same electrical characteristics as one 6SN7. A 6SN7 draws 0.6A; a 6J5GT draws 0.3A and they all use 6.3V.

 

[reg66]

Don't worry - two 6J5GT have the same electrical characteristics as one 6SN7. A 6SN7 draws 0.6A; a 6J5GT draws 0.3A and they all use 6.3V.

Superb, cheers very much!!

EDIT: You say specifically the GT. Are 6J5, 6J5WGT, 6J5G any different in draw etc? (I'm guessing the WGT is military GT...)

 

[Isaacc7]

Care to sell any? PM me

The 12sn7w isn’t all that difficult to get.

Edit: It actually doesn’t look like Sylvania made 12sn7w but see my post below.

Superb, cheers very much!!

EDIT: You say specifically the GT. Are 6J5, 6J5WGT, 6J5G any different in draw etc? (I'm guessing the WGT is military GT...)

They are all the same electrically.

 

[Isaacc7]

Care to sell any? PM me

I think I‘m wrong actually. They are JAN tubes but they do not have the W suffix. I bet they have the more typical three hole bottom getter construction that’s you see on the early 50s 6sn7gt. I’ll see if I can dig them up tonight and get some pictures.

 

[Isaacc7]

OK, so it is as I remember. They are not 12sn7w but JAN 12sn7gt. Oh, and I only have one sleeve. Please pardon the mess, I’ve been doing a lot of tube stuff and haven’t had time to neaten up

They are good sounding tubes and easily gotten. These are what I meant when I said you can find them easily, I don’t think there is such a thing as a sylvania 12sn7w actually. Anyhow, these are pretty cheap and a great deal.

Gah, the photos got jumbled up… I don’t have any metal based Sylvania 6sn7w to compare to but maybe someone else can compare theirs with this 14n7. It is actually difficult to get a shot of the insides of these because the getter flash comes so far down the tube. To my untrained eye the 14n7 looks very similar to the pictures of the metal 6sn7w but with the “chrome dome” getter flash instead of the neater, shorter one of the 6sn7w. Of note is the copper support rod and I think the mica is the same as well. Both the tall and short 14n7 have the copper support rod.

The 14n7 isn’t as common to find as you might think. There is also a dark glass version which to my ear sounds like the dark glass non NU 7n7. I have no idea what kind of structure they have but they don’t sound like any Sylvania I’ve heard. Kind of flat and lacking detail every time I‘ve tried them.

 

[mordy]

Superb, cheers very much!!

EDIT: You say specifically the GT. Are 6J5, 6J5WGT, 6J5G any different in draw etc? (I'm guessing the WGT is military GT...)

As stated, they are all the same electrically. 6J5 are all metal tubes (quite good and fetch a lower price because there is no tube glow), 6J5G are the older, larger shoulder type (ST) tubes, 6J5GT are tubular in shape. WGT means more ruggedized for military use. For the sake of completion, there are also 6J5MG tubes, These tubes are tubular and made of glass with a metal shroud.

The reason I mentioned GT tubes is that this category has the greatest selection and there are many good sounding tubes there that can be found at very reasonable prices.

 

[Isaacc7]

Oh, and if I hadn’t mentioned it before, I think the 14n7 is better sounding than any other Sylvania *sn7 variant. I think I have every version except the 6sn7w. Their sound is what made me start researching them.

 

[g0ldl10n]

It seems that most of the Russian 6S2S/6c2c are made by NEVZ/Novosibirsk. I have 1973 and 1980 tubes black base and unknown year - they all sound the same. - Some say 50’s tubes are the ones to look for- don’t know.
Don’t have experience yet with metal base - some say sound a little better.
There are also 6S2S tubes made by MELZ but much more expensive.
IMHO any cheap 6S2S tube will make you happy - can be found for around $7 each including shipping if you shop around (Best offer etc).
Shipping from Ukraine takes around three weeks to the US.

After fixing the loose bases on my plastic 1966 62S2 tubes last night, I ran a pair of them all morning, and they sound very good too.. I still favor the earlier metal base versions with the foil getter instead of the inverted saucer getter along with the bubble glass.. the plastic base later versions aren't far off as far as SQ goes, 6S2S is really a great tube!

 

[Louisiana]

After fixing the loose bases on my plastic 1966 62S2 tubes last night, …

May I ask how exactly you did this?
I also have a tube with a "slightly" loose base.

 

[g0ldl10n]

May I ask how exactly you did this?
I also have a tube with a "slightly" loose base.

Yes, I use acetone or nail polish remover, which i think is just acetone.

With a paint brush i apply that to the small opening around the entire base.. let it sit overnight, and the acetone "reactivates" the glue/cement that was originally used, and it creates that bond again. This way is super clean compared to using super glue, which if not done perfectly, you can see it once dried .. this way, you can't even tell when its done.

 

[Louisiana]

Yes, I use acetone or nail polish remover, which i think is just acetone.

Thank you very much.
I will try that.

I knew so far only the method with glue, which is also recommended again and again in various Facebook groups - but have not tried it so far, because I thought that will be a giant mess…

 

[g0ldl10n]

Thank you very much.
I will try that.

I knew so far only the method with glue, which is also recommended again and again in various Facebook groups - but have not tried it so far, because I thought that will be a giant mess…

Nah, this way is much better.. I have done it both ways, and the only "downside" doing it with acetone, is you have to wait a day, lol.. but, its very clean and no one would ever be the wiser once its done.

 

[TLO]

Nah, this way is much better.. I have done it both ways, and the only "downside" doing it with acetone, is you have to wait a day, lol.. but, its very clean and no one would ever be the wiser once its done.

Hey dude, sorry as I thought I have shared with you on this...lol
You dont have to wait for a day...after the application, wait for about 15-30 minutes for the acetone to work its magic, then hold the tube by the base carefully and not shaking the glass, put it back onto the amp and run it. Yes, it is baking time...
After just a couple of hours, the cement compound should be dry and holding strong.