[nykobing]

How do these metal band Tung-Sol 6sn7 sound? Any different than the regular one? Someone just paid over 400 bucks for a single one. I bought a 12sn7 version of it years ago for maybe 30 dollars, but that amp will never be built now, so I don't know how it sounds.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3049187191...8Drpg6fl6hmw6ZiGB27gfLpdw=|tkp:Bk9SR8j5q_f7YQ

 

[LobalWarming]

How do these metal band Tung-Sol 6sn7 sound? Any different than the regular one? Someone just paid over 400 bucks for a single one. I bought a 12sn7 version of it years ago for maybe 30 dollars, but that amp will never be built now, so I don't know how it sounds.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304918719108?hash=item46fe926a84:g:iOQAAOSw5MxkT0S0&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA0CFlk5htGJRcykeMs+MRxD4sWFD8zryzFvWmLUuiO8m2oDJLVxkfJJKkS0tkLiEtlkWrKdnBtzQvtBseqr3tNnBx0TX1TfvlhXOlNci2S2NFz9QCz7007eAwGrIbD9kycVn+mMsM6Hcvs/miA9K3rsqAS8olRVQDpmHnpfc83Oi1Jq/qcKSHWPSYL7nHj7QRJ0yk/0+4s7SnVZo28Ashrlu5UUxHD8Fnsz3Y5NGHE2s5oPddb9CW138ekx4HIw8Drpg6fl6hmw6ZiGB27gfLpdw=|tkp:Bk9SR8j5q_f7YQ

They sound very good. Over $400 good? Not to me. Fortunately my little flock of TS RPs were freed from eBay's gilded cage many years ago for far, far less than the ransom that seller was asking.

If your current amp is 6V only, could use a 12V heater adapter and external supply. Haven't noticed any big differences between the 6V and 12V TS RPs. Nor between the phenolic vs metal band versions. Other than the usual tube to tube variations after 75-80 years of benign or not so benign neglect.

 

[TLO]

Sometimes data sheets actually have useful information.

(7193)

Please allow me to emphasize again that CV6 / DET20 / E1148 are not identical to 7193 / 2C22, dont wish to see anyone causes damage to their beloved equipment. Here is the pinout for the CV6 / DET20 / E1148...

CV6 / DET20 / E1148

 

[Isaacc7]

They sound very good. Over $400 good? Not to me. Fortunately my little flock of TS RPs were freed from eBay's gilded cage many years ago for far, far less than the ransom that seller was asking.

If your current amp is 6V only, could use a 12V heater adapter and external supply. Haven't noticed any big differences between the 6V and 12V TS RPs. Nor between the phenolic vs metal band versions. Other than the usual tube to tube variations after 75-80 years of benign or not so benign neglect.

This is exactly what I did for my SE amp. It allowed me to actually get the grail tubes for not a lot of money. TS BGRP, MOV B36, Sylvania bad boy, etc. @Deyan made my set. He asked if I wanted just a 12v heater system or a variable one. Had never thought about it before but decided to go ahead and get a variable one. That convenience led directly to me asking for the ability to use external heater supplies for my custom amp. Now in addition to 12v I am also using 25v and soon 4v tubes. Really opens up the possibilities. Think the one @Deyan makes can go to 13v, he might be able to go higher than that.

 

[incredulousity]

This is exactly what I did for my SE amp. It allowed me to actually get the grail tubes for not a lot of money. TS BGRP, MOV B36, Sylvania bad boy, etc. @Deyan made my set. He asked if I wanted just a 12v heater system or a variable one. Had never thought about it before but decided to go ahead and get a variable one. That convenience led directly to me asking for the ability to use external heater supplies for my custom amp. Now in addition to 12v I am also using 25v and soon 4v tubes. Really opens up the possibilities. Think the one @Deyan makes can go to 13v, he might be able to go higher than that.

I’m a big fan of external heater current power supplies. I have a 12.6V one and a 6.3V one from Deyan. They are stable in power delivery, and silent. Also, they are inexpensive. Perfect, functionally. Their form factor is a bit large, and utilitarian in style. Seeking to replace both with a single unit, I decided to try a Ferrum Hypsos, with some custom adapters to connect the Hypsos wire to Deyan’s powered socket banana plugs. It works as well, or perhaps a bit better, at 5 times the cost.

 

[Isaacc7]

I’m a big fan of external heater current power supplies. I have a 12.6V one and a 6.3V one from Deyan. They are stable in power delivery, and silent. Also, they are inexpensive. Perfect, functionally. Their form factor is a bit large, and utilitarian in style. Seeking to replace both with a single unit, I decided to try a Ferrum Hypsos, with some custom adapters to connect the Hypsos wire to Deyan’s powered socket banana plugs. It works as well, or perhaps a bit better, at 5 times the cost.

My push pull amp has banana connectors for both the input and output tubes. I am using some Chinese made DC power supplies I got from Amazon that can go up to 30v 10a. They are about $70 or so last time I looked. The only thing I don’t like about them is that the voltage and amp readings go to 3 decimal points. A few tubes have .001 fluctuations causing the readout to bounce between .300 and .299 amps which also causes the wattage figure to shift as well. Luckily they are a bit out of the way so I don’t notice them all the time.

Anyway, external heater supplies are perfect for tube rolling neurotics like myself. And while the external supplies do have some upfront costs they quickly pay for themselves by giving me access to tubes I couldn’t otherwise afford. Mind you, that does cause me to buy more tubes so maybe it all balances out in the end lol.

 

[jonathan c]

My push pull amp has banana connectors for both the input and output tubes. I am using some Chinese made DC power supplies I got from Amazon that can go up to 30v 10a. They are about $70 or so last time I looked. The only thing I don’t like about them is that the voltage and amp readings go to 3 decimal points. A few tubes have .001 fluctuations causing the readout to bounce between .300 and .299 amps which also causes the wattage figure to shift as well. Luckily they are a bit out of the way so I don’t notice them all the time.

Anyway, external heater supplies are perfect for tube rolling neurotics like myself. And while the external supplies do have some upfront costs they quickly pay for themselves by giving me access to tubes I couldn’t otherwise afford. Mind you, that does cause me to buy more tubes so maybe it all balances** out in the end lol.

** Limit tubes—>♾: vacuum wallet = vacuum tubes.

 

[ARCXENOS]

Recently I chanced upon a NOS-testing TS BGRP oval mica piece at a reasonable price (for today's day and age)

The piece I have looks like this:



I know there is a variant that has a slightly different construction, where the top snubbers/UClip/vibrationblockers/??? alternates direction, may I ask if they will sound the same, and its only an OCD visual problem? Or do they differ in sound?

 

[Wes S]

Recently I chanced upon a NOS-testing TS BGRP oval mica piece at a reasonable price (for today's day and age)

The piece I have looks like this:



I know there is a variant that has a slightly different construction, where the top snubbers/UClip/vibrationblockers/??? alternates direction, may I ask if they will sound the same, and its only an OCD visual problem? Or do they differ in sound?

They should sound the same, as long as the grid post and mica shape are the same. There are two versions of grid post, one with copper grids and one with steel, and those are the one's that sound a different.

I am OCD and noticed this as well, and it always bothered me a bit visually when I had mine.

 

[Ranger Ron]

They should sound the same, as long as the grid post and mica shape are the same. There are two versions of grid post, one with copper grids and one with steel, and those are the one's that sound a different.

I am OCD and noticed this as well, and it always bothered me a bit visually when I had mine.

Music sounds better in the dark anyway

 

[JeffMann]

Please allow me to emphasize again that CV6 / DET20 / E1148 are not identical to 7193 / 2C22, dont wish to see anyone causes damage to their beloved equipment. Here is the pinout for the CV6 / DET20 / E1148...

CV6 / DET20 / E1148

I do not understand the difference.

I have purchased this adapter for my Cayin HA300Mk2 amplifier - https://www.ebay.com/itm/192509646171

Do I have to do something different when using a 7193 tube rather than a CV6 tube in that adapter?

How do I know which of those two wires should attach to the grid top cap (which seems to be closer to the locating key in the CV6 diagram and opposite the locating key in the 7193 diagram)?

Jeff.

 

[TLO]

Do I have to do something different when using a 7193 tube rather than a CV6 tube in that adapter?

How do I know which of those two wires should attach to the grid top cap (which seems to be closer to the locating key in the CV6 diagram and opposite the locating key in the 7193 diagram)?

Correct, the grid TC for CV6 is above pin 7 and 8, compared to pin 4 and 5 for 7193.
The rest of the pins on the base is exactly the same.

Another simple way to locate the grid or anode TC is just by looking at the wires that connected to the plate assembly, I find it much direct without having any doubts at least. In a vacuum tube, we know that the grid is between the cathode and anode, it is always nearer to the center of the whole plate assembly compared to the anode.

CV6
Right TC to near center of the plate assembly = grid
Left TC to the edge of the plate assembly = anode

7193
Right TC to near center of the plate assembly = grid
Left TC to the edge of the plate assembly = anode

E1148
Bottom TC to near center of the plate assembly = grid
Top TC to the edge of the plate assembly = anode

Lastly, on the adapter, you will see markings on the PCB which indicate the wire connections for the grids or anodes...
A-cap = Anode
G-cap = Grid

 

[ARCXENOS]

Correct, the grid TC for CV6 is above pin 7 and 8, compared to pin 4 and 5 for 7193.
The rest of the pins on the base is exactly the same.

Another simple way to locate the grid or anode TC is just by looking at the wires that connected to the plate assembly, I find it much direct without having any doubts at least. In a vacuum tube, we know that the grid is between the cathode and anode, it is always nearer to the center of the whole plate assembly compared to the anode.



CV6
Right TC to near center of the plate assembly = grid
Left TC to the edge of the plate assembly = anode


7193
Right TC to near center of the plate assembly = grid
Left TC to the edge of the plate assembly = anode


E1148
Bottom TC to near center of the plate assembly = grid
Top TC to the edge of the plate assembly = anode


Lastly, on the adapter, you will see markings on the PCB which indicate the wire connections for the grids or anodes...
A-cap = Anode
G-cap = Grid

Thanks for the detailed write up, its very informative. Those Mullard prices are tempting, but if there is a chance of mistake I'd probably be afraid to partake, accidents are accidents afterall.

Maybe I am just chicken and should stick to the single grid caps / 6J5s

 

[ARCXENOS]

Toys from arrived, and for the first time ever, I got hit by the eastern bloc qc (Melz and RFT being faultless was too lucky I guess)

Pins appeared to be too skinny, setting them in was way too easy and had essentially no resistance, had the loud af screech on start up, swap tubes around and one side played dead. The ampata savers I didn't use before because they were super tight and tube removal needed me to remove the saver.... defeating the purpose of having it.

Until now that is, because of that "flaw" it fixed the 6CC10s, and they ending working perfect in the double saver setup

I guess the only way to truly "fix" this is resoldering 8 new pins each? I mean I can live with double savers no issues, but I wonder if anyone got a better idea?

 

[VanHai]

Could your guys help to identify these tubes. Are they legit?. I received them today, my first impression is very very positive and thank you for your help.