The Reference 6SN7 Thread
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leftside
Headphoneus Supremus
Damn - Thailand is starting to compete with Canada when it comes to varieties. I still remember those full-moon parties in Thailand in the mid 90's. Kind ofFor a moment, I thought it is one of those funny names...LOL
g0ldl10n
500+ Head-Fier
I have faith in you!!I am still looking for that $1 NIB tube...lol
My best up-to-date record is at $5 shipped...unused true NOS.
g0ldl10n
500+ Head-Fier
Ya, honestly I still feel like there is something wrong with the amp I have because I cant get myself to believe that this amp would get the type of positive reviews it does from the vast majority of people that do own it. Wish I was able to connect with someone personally that has it to do a comparison. For now it is only being used to burn in tubes, which is disappointing, lolMy TA-26 works really well, no distortion and excellent sound with the right tubes
I'll hang on to the NU tubes for future use maybe.
Isaacc7
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I'm pretty sure I'm done buying twin triodes so here's a list of the ones that work really well in my systems in no particular order.
GEC/Marconi/Osram b36. I have several different versions of this from a variety of years and they all sound great in my preamp.
Brimar 13d1. It's a 25sn7 from what I can tell. It pairs really well with one of my favorite output tubes, the vt60a.
Raytheon 6f8g T plates. Pretty sure these are similar to the vt231 from Raytheon which many people like. I find these to be a great all rounder for a lot of different tube combos.
14n7. All of them were made by Sylvania regardless of the label. I had always been told they were simply the 12v of the 7n7 which is the loctal version of the 6sn7. I don't think that's exactly true. I have what I think is the entire history of the 7n7 and the 14n7 are built and sound different than any of them. The 14n7 has the same copper support rod as the Sylvania 6sn7w metal base and the plates look the same as well. I've convinced myself that the 14n7 is a 12v 6sn7w. I certainly think they sound better than any of the 7n7 variants. That goes for both the short and tall bottle 14n7 but not the grey glass versions.
MOV bl63/cv1102/vr102. This is sometimes billed as being similar to the ecc32 but with a top cap. I think the only thing actually similar is the current draw for the heater which is noticeably higher than the 6sn7. I can get nice results with this with a few output tubes in my SE amp but my PP amp just doesn't like them.
Brimar 12sl7. There was some uncertainty about where and who actually made these since some of them were labeled Tungsram made in England and others were labeled Brimar made in Holland but in talking with folks I'm fairly sure they were made by Brimar. Once again, these tubes are great in combination with a few tubes but not most.
Sylvania 12sn7 "bad boy." There hasn't been much discussion about the 12v version of this tube or even a consensus around if they should be called that at all. They meet all of the criteria of the 6sn7 including the date range so I'm going to go ahead and say they are indeed the bad boy version. I even have a sleeve of them in their original government bulk packaging. Really good all rounder but with an extended/sharper high end that my not work with every output tube.
With all my tests across two different amps and a preamp along with different output tubes I have come to the conclusion that making blanket statements about the sound of any particular tube really only makes sense when talking about specific amps. Sadly, my push pull amp is unique so I'm not sure my listening notes will really help many people. My other amp, a Dennis Had Inspire KT88 Firebottle is fairly rare as well. I have bought most of my tubes based on reputation, the Raytheon 6f8g the only one I stumbled across on my own. So yes, shopping by reputation can get you some good quality tubes but I have a lot of tubes that simply don't work for my system as well. Don't be too disappointed if a grail tube doesn't end up doing anything for you.
GEC/Marconi/Osram b36. I have several different versions of this from a variety of years and they all sound great in my preamp.
Brimar 13d1. It's a 25sn7 from what I can tell. It pairs really well with one of my favorite output tubes, the vt60a.
Raytheon 6f8g T plates. Pretty sure these are similar to the vt231 from Raytheon which many people like. I find these to be a great all rounder for a lot of different tube combos.
14n7. All of them were made by Sylvania regardless of the label. I had always been told they were simply the 12v of the 7n7 which is the loctal version of the 6sn7. I don't think that's exactly true. I have what I think is the entire history of the 7n7 and the 14n7 are built and sound different than any of them. The 14n7 has the same copper support rod as the Sylvania 6sn7w metal base and the plates look the same as well. I've convinced myself that the 14n7 is a 12v 6sn7w. I certainly think they sound better than any of the 7n7 variants. That goes for both the short and tall bottle 14n7 but not the grey glass versions.
MOV bl63/cv1102/vr102. This is sometimes billed as being similar to the ecc32 but with a top cap. I think the only thing actually similar is the current draw for the heater which is noticeably higher than the 6sn7. I can get nice results with this with a few output tubes in my SE amp but my PP amp just doesn't like them.
Brimar 12sl7. There was some uncertainty about where and who actually made these since some of them were labeled Tungsram made in England and others were labeled Brimar made in Holland but in talking with folks I'm fairly sure they were made by Brimar. Once again, these tubes are great in combination with a few tubes but not most.
Sylvania 12sn7 "bad boy." There hasn't been much discussion about the 12v version of this tube or even a consensus around if they should be called that at all. They meet all of the criteria of the 6sn7 including the date range so I'm going to go ahead and say they are indeed the bad boy version. I even have a sleeve of them in their original government bulk packaging. Really good all rounder but with an extended/sharper high end that my not work with every output tube.
With all my tests across two different amps and a preamp along with different output tubes I have come to the conclusion that making blanket statements about the sound of any particular tube really only makes sense when talking about specific amps. Sadly, my push pull amp is unique so I'm not sure my listening notes will really help many people. My other amp, a Dennis Had Inspire KT88 Firebottle is fairly rare as well. I have bought most of my tubes based on reputation, the Raytheon 6f8g the only one I stumbled across on my own. So yes, shopping by reputation can get you some good quality tubes but I have a lot of tubes that simply don't work for my system as well. Don't be too disappointed if a grail tube doesn't end up doing anything for you.
That gives us another justification why we must have more than one amp...
Show this informative findings to your wife or GF if she is complaining...
One of the very underrated or overlooked tubes is Mullard CV6 if you are really into the Mullard ECCxx series. This will generally go for around USD25 NOS a piece, must have in your collection IMO.
Single triode with inverted pan getter
Single triode with inverted pan getter
Curious, where you got those adapters for the CV6?One of the very underrated or overlooked tubes is Mullard CV6 if you are really into the Mullard ECCxx series. This will generally go for around USD25 NOS a piece, must have in your collection IMO.
Single triode with inverted pan getter
Just the regular adapter from Mrs. X, I have just changed the wires n dressed them up to look good...lol
Painted the top silver n PVC tape on the side.
You are a master of disguise.
Lol...also PVC tape on the front pair of adapters
Well, have planned to make dual adapters with aluminum casing in the near future, only if I could get my lazy butt moving
Nice! I have some adapters and those same CV6 coming in a few days and can't wait to hear them.
Isaacc7
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Single triodes are a great way to get great sound for less money. I have several *j5gt tubes that I love as well as some 6c5g as well. I’ll be trying pairs of triode strapped pentodes soon. I have heard plenty of good stuff about the 7193 family of tubes but am really afraid of having two connections on top. I do not trust in my ability to get 8 of them right!One of the very underrated or overlooked tubes is Mullard CV6 if you are really into the Mullard ECCxx series. This will generally go for around USD25 NOS a piece, must have in your collection IMO.
Single triode with inverted pan getter
Actually, it is quite simple...the wire that goes into the centre of the plate must be the grid, the other to the edge of the plate is of course, anode. Cant say what will happen if they are connected in reverse becos I am too
to try...Btw, just a kind reminder, perhaps it is crucial to someone. CV6 / DET20 / E1148 (European version, developed by Marconi-Osram Valve) is very close but not identical to 7193 / 2C22 (US version, developed by Ken-Rad).
Correction: My bad...US version 7193 is developed by Ken-Rad and not RCA.
Last edited:
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
Sometimes data sheets actually have useful information.Actually, it is quite simple...the wire that goes into the centre of the plate must be the grid, the other to the edge of the plate is of course, anode. Cant say what will happen if they are connected in reverse becos I am too
Btw, just a kind reminder, perhaps it is crucial to someone. CV6 / DET20 / E1148 (European version, developed by Marconi-Osram Valve) is very close but not identical to 7193 / 2C22 (US version, developed by RCA).
(7193)
