[Wildcatsare1]

Quick question for those on this thread, has anyone had experience matching 6SN7s with the Woo WA5?

 

[attmci]

http://www.turneraudio.com.au/basic-tube-1.html

 

[JKDJedi]

Audio Frequency gain.

Most folks just say "gain". It is the factor by which the input signal is multiplied by given device.

With a higher gain tube you will find yourself using a lower volume setting to get the same effective volume. This may mean that you are using less of your source signal and increasing noise relative to signal.

It may work just fine but only your own ears can tell.

Thanks, the volume level is louder, but the overall dynamics were incredibly good as well, like a different set of headphones. There was some noise but at certain octaves, not a deal breaker for me, crazy little tube packs a punch!

 

[JKDJedi]

Mullard CV181 regarded as the optitome of 6SN7 replacement, by some/most? Vs the Sophia Electric Class A 6SN7. Worth grabbing both or?? Anybody here have one or the other?

 

[leftside]

Yes to the Mullard CV181/ECC32. Get a lightly used one for around $200 and you may never bother with a 6SN7 again. As per the norm with Mullard, there are lot's of construction differences with this fabulous tube, so if you are looking for two with matching construction it can sometimes be a little tricky. Pan, wire/rectangular, spade getters, different micas, brown base, black base, etc. The good news is they all sound good, but they are very popular tubes and a lot on eBay have been badly abused/used. Make sure you get test results from a trusted seller with a decent tester.

 

[ScubaMan2017]

Audio Frequency gain.

Most folks just say "gain". It is the factor by which the input signal is multiplied by a given device.

With a higher gain tube you will find yourself using a lower volume setting to get the same effective volume. This may mean that you are using less of your source signal and increasing noise relative to signal.

It may work just fine but only your own ears can tell.

Meh, I paid the extra 4 bucks to get (my very first) JJ 6SN7 selected for low hiss at Tube Depot. And the extra 2 bucks to get a tube selected for a balanced triode. This thread's be very helpful, thanks eh.

 

[JKDJedi]

At what Decade did Sylvania take over tube production.., it seems like EVERYTHING was made by Sylvania..lol, I spent some time this morning looking up what I thought was a date code.. 722... turns out it's a manufacture stamp..yes, Sylvania. A RCA 231 replica? Sounds good, just (I shouldn't be) surprised.

 

[exdmd]

Mullard CV181 regarded as the optitome of 6SN7 replacement, by some/most? Vs the Sophia Electric Class A 6SN7. Worth grabbing both or?? Anybody here have one or the other?

If you read the first page of this thread there is a caution about the Mullard CV181:

This tube is highly sought-after. BUT, it is NOT a 6SN7. It is an ECC32, which is NOT a drop-in replacement for 6SN7. As mentioned earlier, the current draw for this tube is 50% higher than a 6SN7. This will blow most power transformers over time. And power transformers rarely die alone – they usually take some other parts with them when departing this plane.

Also the 1940's Tung Sol 6SN7GT round plates are hard to beat. I have a few some with round, some with oval micas, they sound the same. Best midrange I have heard with exceptional imaging and staging.

 

[JKDJedi]

If you read the first page of this thread there is a caution about the Mullard CV181:


Also the 1940's Tung Sol 6SN7GT round plates are hard to beat. I have a few some with round, some with oval micas, they sound the same. Best midrange I have heard with exceptional imaging and staging.

Are the "BAD BOYS" worth grabbing?

 

[elmoe]

Mullard CV181 regarded as the optitome of 6SN7 replacement, by some/most? Vs the Sophia Electric Class A 6SN7. Worth grabbing both or?? Anybody here have one or the other?

I have a matched pair of Sophias Class As in my MPX3. They replaced a matched pair of Ken Rad VT231s that had too many hours on them. I'd recommend them over most vintage 6SN7s.

 

[JKDJedi]

I have a matched pair of Sophias Class As in my MPX3. They replaced a matched pair of Ken Rad VT231s that had too many hours on them. I'd recommend them over most vintage 6SN7s.

Yeah, thats what I'm getting, the Sophia in this video has a nice sense of space compared to the vintage tube.

 

[elmoe]

That's the exact model I have, they have been great performers in my amp for many years now.

 

[exdmd]

Are the "BAD BOYS" worth grabbing?

Sure if you can get a true Bad Boy with date codes made between late 1951 and early 1953; also three rivet hole plates for under $100 and test strong. The first digit of the date code represents the year, and needs to start with a 1, 2, or 3. If it was made in 1950 it is not a Bad Boy. Example: date code 240 means made week 40 of 1952. My second favourite 6SN7GT after the Tung Sol 6SN7GT round plates.

 

[attmci]

Sure if you can get a true Bad Boy with date codes made between late 1951 and early 1953; also three rivet hole plates for under $100 and test strong. The first digit of the date code represents the year, and needs to start with a 1, 2, or 3. If it was made in 1950 it is not a Bad Boy. Example: date code 240 means made week 40 of 1952. My second favourite 6SN7GT after the Tung Sol 6SN7GT round plates.

I have an idea. We will call all those fakes on the eastbay BadBoy, and the real one GoodBoy from now on.

 

[JKDJedi]

Sure if you can get a true Bad Boy with date codes made between late 1951 and early 1953; also three rivet hole plates for under $100 and test strong. The first digit of the date code represents the year, and needs to start with a 1, 2, or 3. If it was made in 1950 it is not a Bad Boy. Example: date code 240 means made week 40 of 1952. My second favourite 6SN7GT after the Tung Sol 6SN7GT round plates.

I'm looking at a 2hole BAdBoy (bottom getter) 322407-3 code (really cheap) I also have a Tall Boy 6SN7GTB? (with a date code of 322HR3) I take the 322 is the Tung-Sol Stamp?