[RoundRound]

Hi Guys,
Very interesting discussion!
 
Can I add a Noob question and ask how do I know a Tube (6SN7) is at the end of it's life and needs to be replaced? I don't have a tester just by using it in the preamp
(Schiit Freya). 

 

[RoundRound]

Another question, 
You say that 'power tubes need to be matched' and taht pre-amp tubes are less sensitive, but my understanding is that in the Freya the right pair os 'gain pair' which I read as power tubes...? Am I missing something?
 
Thank you,

 

[dminches]

  Another question, 
You say that 'power tubes need to be matched' and taht pre-amp tubes are less sensitive, but my understanding is that in the Freya the right pair os 'gain pair' which I read as power tubes...? Am I missing something?
 
Thank you,

 
The Freya is a preamp, not a power amp so these aren't power tubes.

 

[Jacobh]

Possibly a dumb question. Tube Depot has NOS Sovtek 6sn7 (supposedly 1970s Novisibirsk) for cheap. I can't find much on these (probably because they aren't good). Anyone know if these are worse than the new production Tung-sols?

 

[RoundRound]

Hello People,
I bought a pair of NOS Tang-sol mouse ears and one of them has the base cracked - it was mentioned in the ebay listing so I'm not going to return it (they also sound wonderful!).
 
But I wonder if there's a risk that the base/tube will break when I pull it out of the socket? The pre-amp is a Schiit Freya. picture below:
 

 

[Skylab]

The TS Mouse Ears were all very prone to cracked bases. Not sure why versus other TS tubes. But in any case, if the tube is working well,and you are careful, it's nothing to be concerned about.

 

[RoundRound]

The TS Mouse Ears were all very prone to cracked bases. Not sure why versus other TS tubes. But in any case, if the tube is working well,and you are careful, it's nothing to be concerned about.

Thanks mate, so it won't disintegrate if I pull it out gently?
Sounds brilliant so far!

 

[ericr]

No expert by any means and only have a couple of tubes with cracked bases, but I just try to remember to only pull them out by the base (not the glass) and to pull straight up in one nice clean motion. So far, so good.

 

[RoundRound]

No expert by any means and only have a couple of tubes with cracked bases, but I just try to remember to only pull them out by the base (not the glass) and to pull straight up in one nice clean motion. So far, so good.

My problem is that with the Freya I can't reach the base and have to pull them from the glass... Also to rock them gently out of the socket...
 
Does the base actually hold the glass or is there just for cosmetics?
 
Thank you!

 

[Pandahead]

 
 
 
 
 
Quote:

 
My problem is that with the Freya I can't reach the base and have to pull them from the glass... Also to rock them gently out of the socket...
 
Does the base actually hold the glass or is there just for cosmetics?
 
Thank you!

I originally posted these pictures of my high-tech invention on the Freya thread. Inevitably when I remove tubes the lip of the base catches on the inside of the case opening more often than I'd like. You probably would like to avoid this with the cracked base just to be safe. It also prevents scraped sides as the openings on my Freya are sharp! Hope this helps. (it was easier to photograph on Saga)
 
Mouse ears are fantastic in Freya. Precise detailed imaging with a huge soundstage. They shame the new production quad I have, but that's just my opinion.
 
I have yet to deconstruct a 6SN7 but the base appears to be primarily integral to soldering the pins and providing the keyway for proper insertion.

 

[432789]

my top 6sn7 tube:
 
RFT 6SN7 (ceramic) as gain tube
Sylvania 6SN7W black-base as output tube
 
tungsols rp great but overrated IMO

 

[Synergist969]

  Anyone out there who can suggest a 6SN7 tube that won't break the bank, but smooths out the upper frequencies and/or raises the low to mid mid-range...?...Currently using the new manufacture Tung Sol's in the gain stage and the stock tubes in the follower stage, and otherwise listen in buffered mode...both too bright...
 
In my system, once I replaced the Ragnarok as a pre-amplifer with the Freya, the high frequencies are a bit overpowering...high strings are steely, clarinets, oboes, flutes all sound too "hard" and bright, and trumpets in the higher registers can be a bit to bright to overpowering.  My stereo system is fairly resolving, and worked very well with Ragnarok's pre-amp section, and I have changed nothing else in my system...
 
Thank you for your input.

 

[musicman59]

  Anyone out there who can suggest a 6SN7 tube that won't break the bank, but smooths out the upper frequencies and/or raises the low to mid mid-range...?...Currently using the new manufacture Tung Sol's in the gain stage and the stock tubes in the follower stage, and otherwise listen in buffered mode...both too bright...

In my system, once I replaced the Ragnarok as a pre-amplifer with the Freya, the high frequencies are a bit overpowering...high strings are steely, clarinets, oboes, flutes all sound too "hard" and bright, and trumpets in the higher registers can be a bit to bright to overpowering.  My stereo system is fairly resolving, and worked very well with Ragnarok's pre-amp section, and I have changed nothing else in my system...

Thank you for your input.

A potential option is the Ken Rad V231. They go for about $150/pair NOS.
Looks like Brent Jessee (audiotubes dot com) has some.

 

[Rob N]

Anyone know the approx current value of the Sylvania metal base labelled MR (maintenance and repair) with green print on the base in commercial Sylvania boxes

 

[ericr]

Anyone know the approx current value of the Sylvania metal base labelled MR (maintenance and repair) with green print on the base in commercial Sylvania boxes

Do you have a picture? The only metal base Sylvania 6SN7 I've seen is the 6SN7W (aka 6SN7A).