Curtisvill
100+ Head-Fier
I have a pair of those GEC l63s and they are very nice.My fav tube combo on the Airmid was a pair of GEC L63 and a pair of 5998s. There seems to be a few variations of the GEC l63, but these are the ones I have.
I have a pair of those GEC l63s and they are very nice.My fav tube combo on the Airmid was a pair of GEC L63 and a pair of 5998s. There seems to be a few variations of the GEC l63, but these are the ones I have.
Ouch, so you may not have been hearing your VC properly on the Airmid??? I had to have drivers replaced on my Auteur Blackwoods after about 2.5 years. Weird buzzingMy fav tube combo on the Airmid was a pair of GEC L63 and a pair of 5998s. There seems to be a few variations of the GEC l63, but these are the ones I have.
The other tubes I tried, including Bendix 6080s, Ken Rad 6J5, Tung Sol black can 6J5, and Sylvania 6J5s, did not impress me much on this amp.
FWIW, my impressions were based on the Verite open. My VC wasn't doing well when I had the Airmid, and has since been returned to ZMF for some driver replacements.
I decided the red Airmid prototype needed a home, so it will be going to @jgwtriode early next year. Personally, I like the GEC L63 and Tung-Sol 5998 combination myself. Expensive these days, but they pair very well in th
So how close do the stick Soviet tubes get. Will probably upgrade in stages. 6j5's first, then 5998's. Do it over a few months time. I trust that albeit pricey this combo really is the way to go. Really looking forward to the Airmid In my system. My late Xmas/New years present to myself!I decided the red Airmid prototype needed a home, so it will be going to @jgwtriode early next year. Personally, I like the GEC L63 and Tung-Sol 5998 combination myself. Expensive these days, but they pair very well in the amp.
That's correct.Ouch, so you may not have been hearing your VC properly on the Airmid???
I decided the red Airmid prototype needed a home, so it will be going to @jgwtriode early next year. Personally, I like the GEC L63 and Tung-Sol 5998 combination myself. Expensive these days, but they pair very well in the amp.
Remember these two 40's Ken-Rad tubes labeled Brimar? I stated that there were no codes visible on the base or on the glass envelope. Now, thanks to the efforts of the Antiquities and Preservation Department of Trivia University, date codes were discovered in an unlikely place:Just got a pair of Brimar branded 6J5GT tubes (no visible codes). Based on how they look and internal construction they are Ken-Rad VT-94 tubes from the mid 40s.
After playing for a couple of hours one tube started to develop a greyish shadow on top - I assume that it will turn into a black spot later.
I have been told this is called anode boiloff and is not detrimental to the lifespan of the tube. (If the tube has a cleartop it indicates that it is not new = NOS; with a getter flash on top I don't think that you can see it).
Why does this happen?
Professor Mordy, I presumeAntiquities and Preservation Department of Trivia University
What are the markings on the Ken-Rads?Professor Mordy, I presume
These markings have been visible on all of the Ken-Rad 'Brimar' 6J5GT/G I have handled. I think I mentioned this when I first posted about them. My Sylvania 'Brimar' don't have these markings but 'H4' and 'F4' on the glass, below the '6J5GT/G' marking.
The four Ken-Rad 'Brimar's I now could find had the following markings on the glass pinch; A44, A41, A41 and W17. Of these I have passed on, several had either the letter A or W. I have commented on this in a previous post somewhere. (One of these markings was upside down). All of them came from a box of spares from an old cinema - also my Sylvania made 6J5GT/G (with better metal band around the socket).What are the markings on the Ken-Rads?
The reason I asked was that I was trying to understand the meaning of the first letter in the code. So far we have the letters A, C, D, W and Y but I am none the wiser from knowing this lol....The four Ken-Rad 'Brimar's I now could find had the following markings on the glass pinch; A44, A41, A41 and W17. Of these I have passed on, several had either the letter A or W. I have commented on this in a previous post somewhere. (One of these markings was upside down). All of them came from a box of spares from an old cinema - also my Sylvania made 6J5GT/G (with better metal band around the socket).