[Dork Knight]

Gah, when they say Input votage 110v and 220v can be select inside the unit I was hoping it would be simpler than involving soldering.

Does anyone happen to is these units ship at 220v?

 

[fran]

Yes, I bought a 2.5C from eddie wu in early december - just tell him you want 220V and he'll do it for you. When you're at it, if you think you might want to use the headphone amp part its well worth while to get the amp upgrade ($44).He'll install it etc for you, you will receive it ready to use.

Any q's just ask,

Fran (who is in ireland)

 

[Dork Knight]

Thanks fran - I shall email him now

 

[Epicurean]

Has anyone tried driving headphones balanced straight out of the zapfilter? Shouldn't that be possible if you're using a computer as source where you can adjust the volume?

 

[Dork Knight]

I've just sent payment for the Zhaolu D-2.5 with CS-4398 DA-Chip and I was wondering what the suggested upgrade path is?

I've not got a clue when it comes to this sort of thing so I would seek advise/installation by someone else, but any help with what would be best to purchase over the coming weeks would be appreciated.

Thank You,

Jason

 

[philodox]

Not really Zhaolu related, but I will be joining the ZapFilter club soon myself. Mine will be going in my Eastsound CD-E5 though.

 

[Azure]

Quote:

Originally Posted by philodox /img/forum/go_quote.gif Not really Zhaolu related, but I will be joining the ZapFilter club soon myself. Mine will be going in my Eastsound CD-E5 though.

Very nice

 

[fran]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dork Knight /img/forum/go_quote.gif I've just sent payment for the Zhaolu D-2.5 with CS-4398 DA-Chip and I was wondering what the suggested upgrade path is? I've not got a clue when it comes to this sort of thing so I would seek advise/installation by someone else, but any help with what would be best to purchase over the coming weeks would be appreciated. Thank You, Jason

Thats exactly the one I bought, but I also go the headphone amp upgrade - don't know if you did this?

Anyway, I suggest you google LM4562 and national electronic (I think is the name of the maunfacturer) will come up (this is mentioned further back in this thread too). You will have to sign up with them, create an account and ask for a free sample of the lm4652 op amp. You can get 3 of them and they will want a few quid for shipping. Cost me $10 for the 3 opamps. They will make quite a difference, replace the ones in the output board of the 2.5C and the single one in the headphone amp. Lastly, if you have something like a 2604 you can replace the one in the power supply board.

The other mod is to remove the DC blocking caps, again this requires some soldering skills and is described earlier on in this thread.

Some people replace the output stage altogether with the zapfilter (which costs as much as the 2.5C did in the first place) but at that stage is it actually a 2.5C anymore!

Some have disconnected the power to the front panel, but in my case I want to use the headphone amp and be able to switch between coax and optical inputs so I don't want to do this.

Lastly a good power cord I think also makes a difference but not everybody subscribes to this!

So of the above I suggest going for the opamps and if you feel confident enough and if your amp has DC blocking cap anyway then maybe bypassing them or replacing them with say blackgates (Eddie will do this for you at I think an extra cost of $50).

Fran

 

[Dork Knight]

I didn't opt for the Headphone Upgrade as I will be running everything through existing Amps.

I did go a fair few pages back but go lost with different Op-Amp Numbers and whatnot, so thank you for your reply as it's set me on the right path should we say

Cheers,

Jason

Edit; If the following page is correct for the LM4562 which samples should I request, the LM4562MA or LM4562NA (sorry for all the questions)?
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM4562.html#Availability

Just worked out I need the LM4562NA.

 

[eVITAERC]

I just received my ZAPfilter2 as well, and I have a couple of questions for looser101:

1) How do you determine how to connect the transformer to the power supply?
If your is like mine, your power supply board just have labels "Primary" and "Secondary", with no indication of which color to go into which slot. I guess I could trace the circuit and figure it out myself, but I figure it'll be safer to ask

2) Where did you tap your 110v from? right now I'm having trouble deciding btw "CH3" and "CH4" on the power input filter board.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[d-cee]

yeah you'll want the LM4562NA as that is the same packaging (8 pin DIP) as the existing opamps

funnily enough, when i ordered the samples it didnt ask me to pay any shipping, and to top that it was shipped on the 6th and it arrived today - 9th!

pretty good if you ask me!

currently burning it in, but i like what i hear already. beautiful silent background, clear wide sound that doesn't seem to emphasize any particular ranges and is quick and punchy!

 

[philodox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fran /img/forum/go_quote.gif Some people replace the output stage altogether with the zapfilter (which costs as much as the 2.5C did in the first place) but at that stage is it actually a 2.5C anymore!

No, at that stage it is much better. You have to realize that you are replacing a cheaply implemented [most likely copied from some other design] OPAMP based output with a high quality discrete output stage. It is also the only low cost way to get a discrete balanced output that I am aware of.

 

[Dork Knight]

Are there any wiring diagrams for the ZAPfilter Mk2 that I could hand to someone and they would immediately know what to do so that they could get on with the job no questions asked?

Do people also suggest replacing output sockets on the DAC for better quality ones?

 

[looser101]

Quote:

Originally Posted by eVITAERC /img/forum/go_quote.gif I just received my ZAPfilter2 as well, and I have a couple of questions for looser101: 1) How do you determine how to connect the transformer to the power supply? If your is like mine, your power supply board just have labels "Primary" and "Secondary", with no indication of which color to go into which slot. I guess I could trace the circuit and figure it out myself, but I figure it'll be safer to ask 2) Where did you tap your 110v from? right now I'm having trouble deciding btw "CH3" and "CH4" on the power input filter board. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

1) Mine came prewired, but I did check if it was connected properly. The transformer winding connection diagram is on the side of the transformer.

2) I chose the connector where the IEC connects to. Just realize that it will always be on when it's plugged in. The reason I chose that location was because I wanted it away from the digital noise from the DAC and I knew it would be fed by a high quality power conditioner.

~R~

Edit: For the primary @115VAC I'm pretty sure only the outside 2 screw connections are used and the wires with the dots in the diagram go in 1 terminal and the ones without the dots go in the other.

 

[daggerlee]

got my Zapfilter today! whew...

question...taking a look at the Zapfiler board, it seems it's been used. There's solder on the input holes, and it looks like the solder bubbles have been popped?

Also, the transformer didn't come attached. So I am assuming that only one of the two 115V windings needs to be attached...what about the secondaries? And screwing in the transformer - the two foam discs are to go on top and bottom of the transformer, before the metal disc?