The "mod your Zhalou" Thread
Jan 5, 2007 at 2:22 AM Post #1,006 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Okay, what else do I need for the installation other than the Zapfilter? Do I also need to buy separate RCA and/or XLR jacks?


A pair of good quality RCAs for single ended. If you don't need balanced (XLR) outputs you can skip those. If you ever do need them, they can be added fairly easily.

~R~
 
Jan 5, 2007 at 2:45 AM Post #1,007 of 2,143
Where do you guys recommend that I order the RCA jacks for cheap?
 
Jan 5, 2007 at 2:59 AM Post #1,008 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Where do you guys recommend that I order the RCA jacks for cheap?


These look good for the price. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...umber=091-1120

Or you could try this, although I'm not sure if it comes in single or a pair:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-278

But keep in mind you'll have to order from another place and the shipping charge may negate any savings you get from not ordering the Cardas jacks from partsconnexion, which are 13.50 a pair.
 
Jan 5, 2007 at 3:04 AM Post #1,009 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by daggerlee /img/forum/go_quote.gif
These look good for the price. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...umber=091-1120

Or you could try this, although I'm not sure if it comes in single or a pair:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-278

But keep in mind you'll have to order from another place and the shipping charge may negate any savings you get from not ordering the Cardas jacks from partsconnexion, which are 13.50 a pair.



Well, the thing is that partsconnexion is based in Canada, so shipping is more anyways. Plus, I don't think I can add Cardas jacks to my order right now because of the demand of the Zapfilter. It's 7:00 p.m. PST and their hours of operation are 10am-6pm (Mon-Fri) EST, so I probably wouldn't hear back from them to add the RCA jacks until tomorrow (by which time the Zapfilter will be taken; I have to send payment before tomorrow to get the last Zapfilter).
 
Jan 5, 2007 at 3:57 AM Post #1,010 of 2,143
Bah, forget it. I need to worry about an amp for the K340s first before upgrading my source.

I'm going to pass on the Zapfilter, so if you were waiting for one good luck and hope that you're next in line
wink.gif
 
Jan 5, 2007 at 6:13 AM Post #1,011 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Bah, forget it. I need to worry about an amp for the K340s first before upgrading my source.

I'm going to pass on the Zapfilter, so if you were waiting for one good luck and hope that you're next in line
wink.gif



Try the op-amp rolling for now , the LM4562NA are a very nice "uprade". You have a stock D2C correct ? from your sig.
Just take care when you handle them , ground yourself and follow ESC (electro static guidlines). Touch a bare part of the chassis of your computer
before handling the opamps , this will "ground" you , discharge any ES. Un-plug the DAC (when off) then hit the power button , leave it on for a few minutes , then turn it off , this will discharge any power left in the DAC. Gently pull up the old opamps and make sure to have all the LM4562na lined up with the countersunk circle toward the RCAs at the back of the chassis. I give this off my unit yours may vary though.
 
Jan 5, 2007 at 1:57 PM Post #1,012 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Bah, forget it. I need to worry about an amp for the K340s first before upgrading my source.

I'm going to pass on the Zapfilter, so if you were waiting for one good luck and hope that you're next in line
wink.gif



I agree that a good amp should be your first priority. Also if you decide to add the Zapfilter later you'll have the benifit of the information from others that will have done it by then. I think Renato's roadmap is invaluable, I just don't have soldering experience.
 
Jan 5, 2007 at 3:42 PM Post #1,013 of 2,143
The D2.5C is here!
Posted 30 december 2006, I was able to get it from the post office today.
No customs charges!

I opened up the DAC and the DAC board looks similar to the D2.5A DAC board: mostly capacitors near the connector that goes towards the analog board (with the opamps).
There are two slightly bigger `housings` near the connector. Bigger than the small SMD capacitors but smaller than the DAC chip (1/3 or so).
They have three legs, one on one side, two on the other but in one solder island. The markings are hard to read, will try to see them again tomorrow.
One has:

.107A
R227E
(where the dot is a small triangle I think)

Looks like a strange resistor?
See the bigger things near the connector in this D2.5A photo from El Condor:
http://photo.head-fi.org/showphoto.p...g&ppuser=44434
(upper left you see the connector, they bigger things between this connector and the AD1852 DAC chip)

Anybody who can confirm?

So where would I solder for analog lines towards the Zapfilter? On the connector or elsewhere?
(I am slightly confused now)
 
Jan 5, 2007 at 4:40 PM Post #1,014 of 2,143
I got 3 LM4562s for my Zhaolu today and early impressions are very positive. My HD650s are liking them very much, even better than the OPA2107s. I expected the bass to be a little weaker and thinner than the OPA2107s but that is not the case. Instead the bass is just tighter and maybe even punchier. Very airy and detailed, and without loosing the bass. Thumbs up from me!
 
Jan 6, 2007 at 3:46 PM Post #1,015 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by udo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The D2.5C is here!
Posted 30 december 2006, I was able to get it from the post office today.
No customs charges!

I opened up the DAC and the DAC board looks similar to the D2.5A DAC board: mostly capacitors near the connector that goes towards the analog board (with the opamps).
There are two slightly bigger `housings` near the connector. Bigger than the small SMD capacitors but smaller than the DAC chip (1/3 or so).
They have three legs, one on one side, two on the other but in one solder island. The markings are hard to read, will try to see them again tomorrow.
One has:

.107A
R227E
(where the dot is a small triangle I think)

Looks like a strange resistor?
See the bigger things near the connector in this D2.5A photo from El Condor:
http://photo.head-fi.org/showphoto.p...g&ppuser=44434
(upper left you see the connector, they bigger things between this connector and the AD1852 DAC chip)

Anybody who can confirm?

So where would I solder for analog lines towards the Zapfilter? On the connector or elsewhere?
(I am slightly confused now)



They look like smd caps to me.

If you look at the first pic it seems that they routed the outputs from under the chip to the connector. Two traces at the top and two at the bottom, coming from under the dac chip "body". Get yourself a datasheet for the CS4398 to locate the output pins and then meter from those outputs to the connector, then draw yourself a diagram of the signals at CON5. You can use a pin connected to your meter lead to make that easier. Remember to plan everything out before you start. Planning goes a long way to a successful and neat installation.

~Renato
 
Jan 7, 2007 at 5:11 AM Post #1,017 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by swt61 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Udo let us know when you're in the Zapfiltered Zhaolu club. Good luck!


And don't forget to take pictures of your progress. If I would of known there would be so much interest in the zapfiltered D2.0C I would have.

~Renato
 
Jan 7, 2007 at 9:22 AM Post #1,018 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by looser101 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
And don't forget to take pictures of your progress. If I would of known there would be so much interest in the zapfiltered D2.0C I would have.


Well, first is the research.
The bottom looks like this:

con5cf4.png

(CON5 is just below the center of the image)
Looks like no routing via the bottom?

Looking at the CS4398 datasheet we see that pins 19+20 and 23+24 carry the analog audio. Looking at the DAC board we follow the traces from these pins to CON5 and see (99% sure) no parts in the audio path.

Next will be a measurement with the multimeter to confirm.


Then there is a challenge w.r.t. physical placement of the Zapfilter in the case.
The Zapfilter board is rectangular and the Zhaolu analog board is more or less square. The Zapfilter is longer than the analog board.
So I might need to lift the Zapfilter a bit to be able to place it in the void that the analog board will leave. (other solutions?)

I might want a CON5 connector with some wiring, at least more than the current CON5 cable which is very short. Any ideas where/how to get such a cable?

W.r.t. 230V power: Can I solder the power wires for the Zapfilter transformer to the primaries of the small coil on the Zhaolu 230/110V power board?
It looks like those are `behind` the switch on the front of the case.
 
Jan 7, 2007 at 5:20 PM Post #1,019 of 2,143
I was wondering if anyone would be able to answer a question I have, the answer may already be in the thread but there are a hell of a lot of posts to look through.

I'm currently looking at the Zhaolu D-2.5 with CS-4398 DA-Chip but was wondering what the situation is with switching between 110v and 220v; diykits say that "Input votage 110v and 220v can be select inside the unit" yet I've had an email off Wu (awaiting another reply at the moment) saying " It can tap 115v or 230v inside the filter box".

Is there a switch on the inside/outside of the unit or is it an auto sensing power supply so that you don't need to do anything?

I would hate to order one of these and then blow the thing.

Thanks,

Jason
 
Jan 7, 2007 at 7:09 PM Post #1,020 of 2,143
Quote:

Originally Posted by Dork Knight /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Is there a switch on the inside/outside of the unit or is it an auto sensing power supply so that you don't need to do anything?

I would hate to order one of these and then blow the thing.



With a little soldering it can be changed to/from 110/220.
It is documented somewhere here.
 

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