[andrzejpw]

Thanks everyone!

The enclosure is a Pactec LH57. Its pretty close to a cosmic in size, maybe a little thicker.

I might add stacked buffers in a while, we'll have to see.

And yes, I did build the rack myself. Like it?

Oh, and better pics:

Uber board pic:

 

[eric343]

Very nice!

The shielded wire is a nice touch

(and so is the DIY rack...)

 

[KR...]

Damn that a clean looking board, everything is so neat. I still think you should try and build your own case to really make it your own.

 

[Voodoochile]

Nice work!

Two things...

1: You must be glad to have completed this project!

2: You must be disappointed to have completed this project!

So, how do you like the sound?
Also, what's next for you

?

 

[ChenaynayC]

Very nice job! And good pics of the board, too!

 

[kelly]

andrze
Yeah, I really do like the rack. You continue to amaze me.

I can't help but notice the way the resistors can't sink flush to the board. I wonder why the board wasn't designed with the holes further apart so that they could.

 

[JMT]

Speaking of the RN55D series of Vishays, as long as you properly bend the leads the resistors can sit flush, either with the v1 or v2 boards. I think andrze and his dad just thought it easier to mount them that way.

Nice job andrze, now it's time to tweak.....or build a Gilmore.

 

[kelly]

Quote:

Originally posted by JMT Speaking of the RN55D series of Vishays, as long as you properly bend the leads the resistors can sit flush, either with the v1 or v2 boards. I think andrze and his dad just thought it easier to mount them that way.

Ah, my mistake then. I couldn't get some of the resistors flush on the CMOY I have. Antness rev'd that board of his Gilmore amp just to be able to mount the resistors flush.

 

[ServinginEcuador]

Are Q1 & 2 along wth the R10s used to bias the op amps into class A?? Gret job and that alone should make a decent improvement in sound over the standard class AB or whatever it is.

Again, great job!!!! Now that you showed a more close up view of the uber-board I like the resistor soldering job even more!!! Clean and rofessional looking!! Sweet.

 

[eric343]

Kelly: to mount the RN55s flush, you need a pair of flat-nose pliers to bend the leads as close to the resistor body as possible; regular needle-nose pliers' noses are too thick.

 

[andrzejpw]

Tweaks? Well, I'm going to measure the DC on my denon, and if its low, I'm going to remove C1. Also, stacked buffers may be in my future. . .

Now, what's after the meta? Well, for now, nothing. This is it for the next year and a half. :-/ My dad's not too supportive of my hi-fi hobby, and although I may have the MEANS to upgrade, he won't let me. So, until college. . .

But I'm not complaining! The meta sounds great, and I'll be posting a review soon.

 

[Wodgy]

andrzejpw, I'll bet your Meta sounds so good now that you probably wouldn't be that tempted to upgrade anyway, even if you could!

 

[kelly]

andrze
I understand your dad's intentions but I hate to see you discouraged from something you have a knack for. Do you think he'd be supportive if you tried to build an enclosure or maybe some DIY interconnects?

If not, maybe you could do a break-even amp for someone less technical than yourself?

 

[00940]

I don't know I managed to miss this post, this amp is awesome, really nice job. The board is just so neat

How many hours of work does it mean ?


Btw, after seing such little wonders, I am convinced that I should rather buy one than try to put my hands in this.

 

[tangent]

Quote:

I wonder why the board wasn't designed with the holes further apart so that they could.

Because if we put the holes farther apart, you couldn't put a DIP socket where the resistors go -- you'd only be able to solder the resistors in place, which limits tweakability. We like tweakability.

Quote:

to mount the RN55s flush, you need a pair of flat-nose pliers to bend the leads as close to the resistor body as possible;

I've never used pliers to form resistor leads; I always use my fingers. You've just got to bend the leads sharply down from the body of the resistor, instead of going for an easy bend. It'll save some wear on your fingers to use pliers, I'm sure, but you don't risk cracking your resistors if you do it with your fingers.