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The GrubDAC
Jun 21, 2010 at 2:22 PM Post #361 of 1,079
Approximately 42 parts x 100 kits = ~4200 parts.
 
And I say approximately as IIRC there will be the base kit (for the board and parts) and then the cable kit (which will add everything required including case, plugs etc to make a cable DAC).
 
I'm just glad it isn't me....
 
Jun 21, 2010 at 8:20 PM Post #364 of 1,079


Quote:
cobaltmute said:
Approximately 42 parts x 100 kits = ~4200 parts.
 
And I say approximately as IIRC there will be the base kit (for the board and parts) and then the cable kit (which will add everything required including case, plugs etc to make a cable DAC).
 
I'm just glad it isn't me....
Click to expand...


Well, I'm glad you're you and that you designed such an excellent little DAC.  It will be worth it all to bring it to the community.  I'm just asking for a bit more patience from everyone.  You're right about the estimate, too - I was just counting the SMD parts.
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All I lack is packaging up the IC parts, taking some pics to make the listing on Beezar (one afternoon), and away we go.  The problem is that there are other things going on at the same time and it's all I can do to manage that stuff during the work week.
wink.gif
  Anyway, I think enough people want these that I wanted to make sure that I had at least 100 of them ready to go in an instant so that I didn't get behind/overwhelmed ... and we're close.
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Jun 23, 2010 at 9:44 PM Post #365 of 1,079
Hopefully the pcb and usb wire from tomb will arrive tomorrow so I can start assembling. Was quite surprised when I actually saw the size of the case, this thing is tiny! Quick question, what is the recommended diameter of holes on either side of the case? Also is the top cover to act as a sort of a holster for the cables so they don't move around and detach?
 
Jun 23, 2010 at 9:54 PM Post #366 of 1,079
I had a thought - since the GrubDAC draws power over USB, if it's plugged in it's on, right? Is there any way to add a power switch to the thing in its current PCB form? Reason I'm asking is I want a relatively easy way of turning the Grub off whenever I won't be using my SSMH (read: using speakers), but I don't want to mess with the interconnects due to the issue the SSMH has with wantonly killing innocent DACs.
 
Jun 23, 2010 at 10:45 PM Post #368 of 1,079
Replacing L1 with a switch is one option.   Other option is to wire the enable pin of the TPS reg to a switch which will shut down the regulator and therefore the rest of the board.
 
With the L1 case, the LED would be switched.  If you switched the regulator the LED would always be on.
 
A third option would be to not populate the grub power section, take the 5V feed from near marked point and power the 3v3 point with your regulated switched 3.3V using your own regulator.
 
Jun 24, 2010 at 9:09 AM Post #371 of 1,079


Quote:
cobaltmute said:
Replacing L1 with a switch is one option.   Other option is to wire the enable pin of the TPS reg to a switch which will shut down the regulator and therefore the rest of the board.
 
With the L1 case, the LED would be switched.  If you switched the regulator the LED would always be on.
 
A third option would be to not populate the grub power section, take the 5V feed from near marked point and power the 3v3 point with your regulated switched 3.3V using your own regulator.
Click to expand...


Hmm... so I can install an SPST switch completely in place of the L1 ferrite? Just solder a couple wires, no original ferrite, and that will be just fine? That seems a lot easier than moving the USB plug off-board and connecting five wires to the board. I like the idea of having the LED show the power status of the DAC so that sounds like the best way to go.
 
Jun 24, 2010 at 9:20 AM Post #372 of 1,079


Quote:
ikarios said:
Hmm... so I can install an SPST switch completely in place of the L1 ferrite? Just solder a couple wires, no original ferrite, and that will be just fine? That seems a lot easier than moving the USB plug off-board and connecting five wires to the board. I like the idea of having the LED show the power status of the DAC so that sounds like the best way to go.
Click to expand...

 
Yup, that would be correct.
 
You can also put a ferrite in-line as close to the board as possible.  An example would be this:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P9820BK-ND
 
If you put it close to the pad on the LED site of L1, you would wouldn't lose much at all.
 
Jul 4, 2010 at 9:23 PM Post #375 of 1,079
So I completed one of these, got the parts mouser and used a mogami star quad wires. Here is the odd thing, the blue led comes on, the test point reads 3.3v, and at times my computer recognizes and installs drivers... But at other times I get a device not recognized error. I would not get this error at all before I installed the mogami wire, so I tried again, this time around I got it to work, got sound, listened for a 10 or 15 minutes, at around that time the sound started to get coarse, I touched the cable and the sound cut off, tried to take usb plug out and plug back in and yet again I get... USB device not recognized. Am I just doing a poor job installing the output cables?
 
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