THE DIY HEADPHONE STAND THREAD
Jul 5, 2013 at 4:22 AM Post #1,981 of 3,874
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Dang, nice stand there DefQon.
I must ask though: is there just too much sheep in Australia that you use actual lambskin for the base? 
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Thanks. No sheep/lambskin here is actually quite expensive, mainly the ones treated for clothing/furniture garments. My mother is a professional tailor with all sorts of garments lying around so I asked her for a bit of lambskin. At $15-23 a foot it ain't exactly cheap and depends on the grade of the leather you're buying as well.
 
I originally were gonna make the top bit round but I don't have any working tools to carve a bare block of Tasmanian Oak hardwood to fit on top. So I made it simple and wrapped it. A bit sturdy and fat looking but I don't dig skinny chicks neither.
 
Jul 5, 2013 at 5:18 AM Post #1,984 of 3,874
I picked myself a nice log from last year's wood pile and sanded it down. Makes for a nice unique style and only takes an hour or two of concentrated effort. I've made some watch stands like this, too.
 

 

 
Jul 5, 2013 at 7:36 AM Post #1,985 of 3,874
I picked myself a nice log from last year's wood pile and sanded it down. Makes for a nice unique style and only takes an hour or two of concentrated effort. I've made some watch stands like this, too.







Love it.
 
Jul 6, 2013 at 4:36 AM Post #1,988 of 3,874
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DefQon & wingtsun, very nice stands, lots of nice work you've done there !

 
Thanks all. It's not as much as you might think. The trick is selecting a nice soft wood which is not too difficult to sand. I then use an electric sander. This is the one I have:
 

 
With that you do most of the hard work sanding down branch stubbs etc.. Best tip is to select a log that has a nice shape and then just smooth it down. That way you're keeping the organic look of the log and your work sanding is kept to a minimum. Once you've got it relatively smooth you can change over to two light grits of sand paper to get it exactly how you want it. Once you're happy you need something like this:
 

 
which will protect it and allow you to clean it if anything splashes on it. I use the same stuff for our oak kitchen worktop surfaces. Probably need to apply a couple of times as it soaks into the wood and impregnates it whilst also highlighting the grain nicely. Takes a few hours to completely dry but once done it no longer smells and the surface of the wood remains natural and matte.
All in all it's cheap and you get a one-off headphone stand that looks as good as any $100 stand you'd buy in the shops, IMO. 
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Jul 6, 2013 at 5:30 AM Post #1,989 of 3,874
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Thanks all. It's not as much as you might think. The trick is selecting a nice soft wood which is not too difficult to sand. I then use an electric sander. This is the one I have:
 

 
With that you do most of the hard work sanding down branch stubbs etc.. Best tip is to select a log that has a nice shape and then just smooth it down. That way you're keeping the organic look of the log and your work sanding is kept to a minimum. Once you've got it relatively smooth you can change over to two light grits of sand paper to get it exactly how you want it. Once you're happy you need something like this:
 

 
which will protect it and allow you to clean it if anything splashes on it. I use the same stuff for our oak kitchen worktop surfaces. Probably need to apply a couple of times as it soaks into the wood and impregnates it whilst also highlighting the grain nicely. Takes a few hours to completely dry but once done it no longer smells and the surface of the wood remains natural and matte.
All in all it's cheap and you get a one-off headphone stand that looks as good as any $100 stand you'd buy in the shops, IMO. 
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What would you think would be the best way to curve the top of your stand ? This sounds interesting but I would assume you would want the top to curve to support the headphones better.
 
Just curious !
 
Jul 6, 2013 at 5:39 AM Post #1,990 of 3,874
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What would you think would be the best way to curve the top of your stand ? This sounds interesting but I would assume you would want the top to curve to support the headphones better.
 
Just curious !

 
Well, you could chisel it to a rounded edge and then sand it. However, TBH, when you use a log the headphones sit in a similar fashion to how they sit on your head. As such, there's no real pressure on the headband which is why I didn't feel the need to make mine rounded and in practise it works perfectly.
 
Jul 6, 2013 at 6:22 AM Post #1,992 of 3,874
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Do you use a fine brush, roller or foam brush to paint the satin finish on the wood block to prevent paint marks, drip marks from the brush?

 
Neither, use a cloth and just rub the oil into the surface. This is oil rather than varnish so it will soak into the wood and you won't get any drip marks.
 
Jul 6, 2013 at 6:51 AM Post #1,993 of 3,874
Ahk, fair enough I thought you used a layer of varnish on top. I've sanded my LCD2's, dissembled and tried using a brush today, left brush marks. So waiting for the clear varnish to dry up and I'll sand it down again and use a foam brush so it doesn't leave brush streaks.
 

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