THE DIY HEADPHONE STAND THREAD
Aug 15, 2013 at 2:14 PM Post #2,072 of 3,874
I envy people that can work in any raw material.
 
Aug 15, 2013 at 3:43 PM Post #2,073 of 3,874
Hey zeroxevo do you have any tips for working with acrylic? (mainly smoothing the edges after you cut them and polishing the surface) i have a piece of scavenged acrylic from an old computer so might as well give it a try haha
 
Aug 15, 2013 at 4:38 PM Post #2,074 of 3,874
My first, and so far only attempt at a stand.  Extra pine planks in the garage, so I thought why not?  Its meant to look like Yggdrasil, the tree of life in Norse mythology.  Best I could do with a jigsaw, a pocket knife and a drill.  It could use a few coats of poly, though.
 

 
Aug 15, 2013 at 4:48 PM Post #2,075 of 3,874
I'm impressed, and I'll take one please =).
 
Aug 15, 2013 at 7:08 PM Post #2,076 of 3,874
Quote:
My first, and so far only attempt at a stand.  Extra pine planks in the garage, so I thought why not?  Its meant to look like Yggdrasil, the tree of life in Norse mythology.  Best I could do with a jigsaw, a pocket knife and a drill.  It could use a few coats of poly, though.
 


Let's see it with headphones on it.  Looks interesting! 
 
Aug 15, 2013 at 7:48 PM Post #2,077 of 3,874
Just put the first coat of polyurethane on it, so headphones have to wait a little bit, lol.  I'll post with them on it after the second and third coats are finished drying.  Thanks for the interest in it!
 
 
Aug 15, 2013 at 8:22 PM Post #2,078 of 3,874
Hey zeroxevo do you have any tips for working with acrylic? (mainly smoothing the edges after you cut them and polishing the surface) i have a piece of scavenged acrylic from an old computer so might as well give it a try haha


If you are going to cut the acrylic, you would need to choose the appropriate cutting tool. Anything above 5mm would need a scroll saw. If you are using thinner sheets, you can use a frame saw to cut out the intended design. Go slow, too harsh/forceful may crack the acrylic.

For smoothing edges u can use any aluminum oxide/silicon carbide sandpaper. I think you can get them from any DIY stores. The grit size I choose to work with are (coarse to fine) 36, 100, 180, 500, 1000 finish with 1500
You can sand down the rough edges with the 36 slowly work your way up to 1500 to get a very smooth finish. If you work on designs with many straight edges, you can actually use an orbital sander with the same grit size as above to smoothen the edges. It's saves a lot of time and effort. Alternatives dremmel with circular sand pads and commercial diamond edge smoothing setup.

Finally to buff finish. I use a car polisher (I do not own a cloth disc buffer). So I basically put it on the ground and use my feet to keep it in place and buff the edges with normal car polishing compounds. Repeat till you get the desired shine.

Hope this helps
 
Aug 15, 2013 at 8:22 PM Post #2,079 of 3,874
Aug 17, 2013 at 12:49 AM Post #2,080 of 3,874
If you are going to cut the acrylic, you would need to choose the appropriate cutting tool. Anything above 5mm would need a scroll saw. If you are using thinner sheets, you can use a frame saw to cut out the intended design. Go slow, too harsh/forceful may crack the acrylic.

For smoothing edges u can use any aluminum oxide/silicon carbide sandpaper. I think you can get them from any DIY stores. The grit size I choose to work with are (coarse to fine) 36, 100, 180, 500, 1000 finish with 1500
You can sand down the rough edges with the 36 slowly work your way up to 1500 to get a very smooth finish. If you work on designs with many straight edges, you can actually use an orbital sander with the same grit size as above to smoothen the edges. It's saves a lot of time and effort. Alternatives dremmel with circular sand pads and commercial diamond edge smoothing setup.

Finally to buff finish. I use a car polisher (I do not own a cloth disc buffer). So I basically put it on the ground and use my feet to keep it in place and buff the edges with normal car polishing compounds. Repeat till you get the desired shine.

Hope this helps


After the acrylic edge has been sanded/milled smooth, you can actually take a quick blowtorch to it to make it glossy. But be careful, too much heat will warp or burn it.
 
Aug 20, 2013 at 10:18 AM Post #2,082 of 3,874
I am thinking of starting a thread for constructing a headphone case/carrier. What do you guys think?
 
I am thinking of my first project using black polycarbonate 4mm to reduce weight. 4mm should be enough to withstand 250kg of crushing force or maybe about 10,000 G of shock if i pad it properly with neoprene foam. 
 
Comments?
 
Aug 20, 2013 at 10:52 AM Post #2,083 of 3,874
I am thinking of starting a thread for constructing a headphone case/carrier. What do you guys think?

I am thinking of my first project using black polycarbonate 4mm to reduce weight. 4mm should be enough to withstand 250kg of crushing force or maybe about 10,000 G of shock if i pad it properly with neoprene foam. 

Comments?
Great idea, do it up!
I'd like to see some nice DIY cases.
I have a few big sheets of lexan I'd really like to do something with.
:beerchug:
 
Aug 20, 2013 at 11:37 AM Post #2,084 of 3,874
Quote:
I am thinking of starting a thread for constructing a headphone case/carrier. What do you guys think?
 
I am thinking of my first project using black polycarbonate 4mm to reduce weight. 4mm should be enough to withstand 250kg of crushing force or maybe about 10,000 G of shock if i pad it properly with neoprene foam. 
 
Comments?

yes do please! im in need of a tutorial on making headphone cases haha
 
Aug 20, 2013 at 2:12 PM Post #2,085 of 3,874
That would be pretty awesome. Cases are the new stands.
 

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