[muskyhuntr]

Have you considered using your current pot on a single channel at a time to see if all of this is going to work.
 
Jim

 

[holland]

What problems did you have with the proposed schematics?
 
You should look into reducing the gain.  You have more voltage gain than the original design, lots more.  There were a couple of mods tossed around.  You could definitely live without the pot if you do that, and add it in later.

 

[sceleratus]

Quote:

What problems did you have with the proposed schematics?
 
You should look into reducing the gain.  You have more voltage gain than the original design, lots more.  There were a couple of mods tossed around.  You could definitely live without the pot if you do that, and add it in later.

 
Hi Holland,
 
Sorry for taking so long to answer you.  I've been feeling guilty.
I appreciate your suggestions.  So what's my problem?  (Don't answer that)
 
I cobbled together some interim components on a little proto solder PCB from RS.
I also ordered all the necessary good components too.
 
I've never "worked" with one of those copper clad boards.  What a mess.  It looked like a 3rd grader did it and this is after multiple uses of my Soldapluz.  I'm looking at it thinking, how am I going to implement this mess?  Logistically mounting the board and such.
 
I have DipTrace and I've laid some circuits out.  Creating components, pads, and schematics, but when it comes to laying out the PCB.... even using auto function the result are sketchy at best.  I would need mounting holes, etc.  The only feasible mounting position is on the wood enclosure.  I didn't like that.
 
Next do I try to etch the board myself of pay to have one made at a minimum qty charge.  I was thinking, if I etched my own it would look like the RS copper board.  I got to the... I want this over and done point.  Listen to music.  Short story, I whimp'd out.
 
As such I thought the slam dunk cleanest compact approach is a Goldpoint 23 step attenuator.  I'm waiting for a custom L bracket from Misumi Automation.  If everything fits, I will order one.

 

[sceleratus]

 

 

[sceleratus]

Does anyone know where I can get the seat sink anodized?
I emailed a local company but I think they only do C-130 parts. 

 

[Headampbro]

Quote:

 

 
Wooww, what a beautiful beast!!! I wish I have the time and talent to build it, especially when it comes to casing.

 

[holland]

Quote:

Does anyone know where I can get the seat sink anodized?
I emailed a local company but I think they only do C-130 parts. 

 
Try a google search in the area.  There are companies around that can do any aluminum series, according to their web sites.  Here's one, but I'm not sure it's worth shipping.  http://gmpplating1-px.rtrk.com/ There should be companies closer to you.

 

[tomchr]

Anodization is the way to go. Black anodization makes the heat sink as close to a black body radiator as you can get with a reasonable budget.
Note that simply painting or powder coating the heat sink adds an insulating layer between the air and the heat sink, hence, makes the heat sink perform worse than it would in bare aluminum.
 
Your best bet for anodization is a local machine shop. Some of the custom wheels places offer anodization of aluminum wheels for cars. I'm sure they'd be happy to dunk your heat sink in their soup for a fee... 
 
Anodization does add a little bit of material thickness to the aluminum, so you'll have to go back and retrace your threads when you get the heat sink back from anodization.
 
~Tom

 

[sceleratus]

Strike One.
 
Danco Anodizing.
Black, Type 2
$70 minimum.

 

[sceleratus]

The bakelite volume knob wasn't doing it for me so I went looking for someone that could turn one out of maple for me.
Today I found a great guy.  He might even try a couple inlay options I drew up.
Here are a couple thoughts.
 
 

 

 

[sceleratus]

I think I have found perfection in receiving valves for the DG 300B
I found a gentleman on Audiogon with a sleeve of perfectly matched 1964 Amperex E88CC/6922 USN-CEP's
The silk screens are perfect and they all measured high 14,000 on his Hickock.  NOS plus
These are very high grade valves made for the US Navy.  As such they have much tighter tolerances than a normal ECC88, etc.  There is a "Life" spec of 10,000 hours.  The amp loves them...  This was a find and the price was right...  I bought 2 sets.
 
UPDATE:  Snow / Noise.  Since I switched balanced interfaces it's gone.  Not sure why, but I'm not complaining.  At this moment I am listening to an HD Tracks recording of Marianne Thorsen, Trondheim Solistene,  Mozart Violin Concerto no. 3 in G major.  There are plenty of pauses in this piece and it's dead quiet during them.
 
 

 
 

 

[nelamvr6]

The USN-CEPs were my favorite in the Lyr for the longest time also.
 
I kick myself, I was an electronics tech in the USN for 10 years, if only I'd have known how good these would turn out to be I could've found a way to "appropriate" a couple dozen...

 

[nelamvr6]

Quote:

 

 
 
Gorgeous!  

 

[Tjj226 Angel]

Now you just need some western electric 300Bs 

 
Do you know if the 300B can be interchanged with a 2a3? 

 

[sceleratus]

Now you just need some western electric 300Bs 

Do you know if the 300B can be interchanged with a 2a3? 

WEco's. ha ha very funny guy.
2a3 is a Tom question.