kool bubba ice
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2006
- Posts
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- 87
The ones from Wiki are from me.. Those are all I have. I know there must be a difference.. The new models have a bit more highs & better bass & treble extension..
Originally Posted by duke11235 /img/forum/go_quote.gif What do you mean by"extension" You mean the treble drop is less for the newer. Isn't the bass flat already? You now anywhere you can get vintage DT48? |
Originally Posted by k3oxkjo /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks. I have been on a mini-quest to educate myself recently (actually since I got my tax refund check |
Originally Posted by Drosera /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wow, Kevin, all I can say is: that must have been some tax-return! That's some really lovely (vintage) gear you have there. I'm especially curious how the Revox would sound, and how it would measure up to more modern equipment. What brought about this sudden interest in high-end headphones, apart from "I gots to know"? |
Originally Posted by kool bubba ice /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey, Kev.. What language are you speaking in? I'm not native in DIY/ hi end audiophila.. |
Originally Posted by The Other Allen /img/forum/go_quote.gif If there is a better place on Head-Fi to ask this question, please point me in the right direction. Bought a used DT48 of undetermined age off Ebay in December. I replaced the cable on the phone (intermittant problems) with what appears to be the stock one. Now I'm no expert at soldering, but I did a continuity test on the cable after the solder job and the cable itself checks out OK. The problem is that I now get no sound at all. Any thoughts on what I did wrong or need to check? It seemed too easy at the time. I should add that when I soldered the cable, I unscrewed the little brass connection from the phones, so they were not connected to the transducers at the time. |
Originally Posted by k3oxkjo /img/forum/go_quote.gif That may have been a mistake. I don't remember how the wires from the transducer connect to the tabs, you may have broken the wires to the transducer itself removing the screws. When I worked on mine, I left the screws in and just soldered to the tab. Take your meter and measure between the two tabs on each transducer, you should measure a low resistance. If not, oops. I don't know if the connections can be remade or not. If worse comes to worse, you could send them to me and I could assess the situation if you like. Kevin |
Originally Posted by kool bubba ice /img/forum/go_quote.gif Can't wait to hear this cutting edge DAC, especially since the DT48 are so transparent. I heard the mids are sweet on the 83SE, which would be good.. I hear the DAC is very detailed, plus my very detailed DT48 & GP V5.. I will hear nuances in my audio & films I never heard before.. Can't believe theres gear even more revealing.. How far does the rabbit hole go.. To I take the red or blue pill.. I think I already made that choice.. My next big budget item is the HD800.. The ES9016 Sabre(32) Ultra DAC claims to differ from conventional sigma-delta DACs, incorporating patented circuits specified to provide up to 128dB dynamic range and 0.0003 percent (-110dB) total harmonic distortion, and freedom from clock jitter. Some of the patented circuits in the Sabre(32) DAC include the 32-bit HyperStream modulator, said to be capable of 100 percent modulation and unconditional stability, the Revolver Dynamic Element Matching which ensures the highest performance over an exceptionally wide audio dynamic range, and a Time Domain Jitter Eliminator to remove the digital jitter that causes distortion. I also read it supports DSD to HDMI with DSD to analog not converted to PCM. Hope I got that right. Eyedrop, a good 2-4 hundred dac would be great if you have the money |