The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G!
Jan 14, 2008 at 8:29 PM Post #722 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by powertoold /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'm actually connecting my HD580s directly after the caps without an amp.


If you're talking about caps from the CODEC's lineouts I think this is presenting an impedance to the CODEC that is completely out of wack.... Lineouts typically expect impedance loads > 1k ohm & usually 10k+ AFAIK. Personally, I'd also stay close to reference spec on any associated resistors Wolfson spec (e.g. for my 3G is 47k loader & 100 ohm series).

But if you pulled from the CODEC's headphone out lines & used like 220uf+ caps, that's another story...

If there's one thing I have learned so far fooling w/tone stacks & such is that impedance matters
smily_headphones1.gif


BTW, after burn in I'm going to do some A/Bing of my own using lossless rips of ref CDs (e.g. Steely Dan - Aja & such) & the stuff in my sig, but the topic of improvement has been discussed ad nauseam here & somewhat at RWA forums...

N.B. Some backing info for the impedance concerns; take a look at the 1st page of that WAN0176.pdf Wolfson whitepaper I ref'ed some posts back - The lineout table at bottom only goes down to 10k impedance / 10uf coupler. Not sure it's healthy for the CODEC lineouts to drive impedances < 1k. Also, based on high pass calc, gotta watch the corner freqs for loads like headphone (even tho I *think* your HD580s are med/high imp. as far as headphones go).
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 2:13 AM Post #723 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by KoKoKrunch /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Okay... it might be my set up as well. Pretty Average.

Anyway, installing Caps in 5gen iPod? Sounds like drilling required.



well no need to drill just do some porting
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 5:29 AM Post #727 of 3,220
The USB should still work for your Pioneer system. The diyMod doesn't affect the USB portion of the iPod, so you're all set. In fact, your car stereo system may even have a higher fidelity than our little diyMods since the D/A conversion takes place in your Pioneer unit. Your stereo replaces the Wolfson, so anything that happens in the Wolfson is down a different stream than the car stereo system signal.
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 7:12 AM Post #728 of 3,220
I'd like to take this moment to shamelessly bump a thread that's already regularly bumped to make an important announcement. This thread has recently become the most replied-to and viewed iMod thread on all of head-fi, so exposure is inevitable for future generations. Get the word out there! DIY and courage can save you money! Thanks for your help, everyone. Let's keep the magic alive.
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 1:58 PM Post #729 of 3,220
Yo guys...

Asked someone that is trust-able to do a comparison today. DIYMod vs iMod has no difference. He only noticed that soundstage was slightly lesser, while bass was boomier for DIYMod, and we concluded it was the wire inside. Mine is standard copper, his was Cryogenic copper.
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 2:04 PM Post #730 of 3,220
Ok guys I'm in a jam. I opened up my iPod yesterday to check out this project.

I broke the little latch that holds lcd screen cable in place.
frown.gif
I put it all back together hoping it didn't need that latch to make connectivity on that cable. Now my screen is just white. Where can I get one of these little latches? Thanks for any help.

James
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 5:14 PM Post #732 of 3,220
Hello all finally did my dock connector.

But now i tested the dc offset, maybe i did it wrong but i did it as i think i shall..

I measured between the ground and the left and right channel. And i get as high readings as 0.6 and 260mV.
Maybe i do it wrong but it seems like i have done something really wrong
frown.gif


Well if someone knows what might be wrong i would like the help
smily_headphones1.gif


/Erik
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 5:25 PM Post #733 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by powertoold /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, you need to be very careful with that latch. If it's not too bad, you can try to put it back into the position, then super glue the pieces. I assume it's broken in two.


It's actually in 3 pieces. I'm not sure it's fixable. I may have to try though.
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james
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 6:15 PM Post #734 of 3,220
jamess71:

I feel your pain. I snapped the latch on the click wheel of my nano, and it took me almost a week to fix it. What the latch does is ensure contact between the copper pads on the board and in the ribbon cable. Try slipping some paper behind the ribbon cable as you slip it into the slot. You will have to experiment with different paper stiffness and thickness just to find the right fit. Fold it in two, four, or try construction paper, glossy photo paper, regular white paper. Photo paper might be good for it.

KerryKing:

I'm assuming you have Black Gates inside your dock connector. Make sure that the contacts are all solid, and ensure that none of the pins are touching each other. A strong connection from the DAC ought to give you 1.5VDC, so we know that at least some of the DC is being blocked. What size caps are you using? I'd say check your solder joints to see if nothing is touching anything it shouldn't be, and if you're using a dock connector with a shield, don't let anything touch the shield either. Try increasing the size of your caps and see if the problem goes away. If you don't have bigger caps, you can connect them in parallel where the capacitance is just the sum of the individual capacitances. My diyMods are working fine with 22uF.
 
Jan 15, 2008 at 6:20 PM Post #735 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
KerryKing:

I'm assuming you have Black Gates inside your dock connector. Make sure that the contacts are all solid, and ensure that none of the pins are touching each other. A strong connection from the DAC ought to give you 1.5VDC, so we know that at least some of the DC is being blocked. What size caps are you using? I'd say check your solder joints to see if nothing is touching anything it shouldn't be, and if you're using a dock connector with a shield, don't let anything touch the shield either. Try increasing the size of your caps and see if the problem goes away. If you don't have bigger caps, you can connect them in parallel where the capacitance is just the sum of the individual capacitances. My diyMods are working fine with 22uF.



The blackgates is inside the ipod, but i will check my dock carefully again... i checked it yesterday with an ohmmeter and its no briges as it can find.
I use the ordinary 47uF BGs

I guess ill have to open up the ipod
smily_headphones1.gif
 

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