The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G!
Dec 12, 2007 at 10:41 PM Post #181 of 3,220
I added a spiel on the nano 2G at the bottom of the original post. Anyone with a nano 2G who can confirm or disprove my conjectures would be of great help, as I don't have one on hand.

I'll post it here to save you time
wink.gif


[size=medium]iPod nano 2G[/size] - untested

That Apple branded 66AJSTB is supposed to be similar to the Wolfson WM8750, which should be similar tot he WM8975, according to the iPodlinux site. If anyone is so daring as to slice and dice their nano 2G's beautiful finish for the education of the community, I'm sure at least one person will be grateful for your DIY spirit. If my memory serves me, the 5G's WM8758 was supposed to be similar to the WM8750 when it actually borrowed more from the WM8978. If the 66AJSTB is more like the 5G's in that it shares the pinout of the WM8978, then the pair of caps sitting at the bottom middle of the chip, the ones with the darker yellow colour than the outside pairs, might be what you're looking for. In my experience, Apple has placed the target caps side by side, a fact that helped me figure out the diyMod 5G. If this policy is true, then the left side of the chip (as shown) cannot hold the traces we're looking for. If the 66AJSTB has the same pinout as the WM8978, then that darker yellow pair of caps process the information from OUT3 and OUT4 from the WM8978 datasheet, our target line out feeds. The leftmost dark yellow cap would then be OUT4, right, and the rightmost would be OUT3, which would be the left line output.
front-circuit.jpg
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 1:02 AM Post #182 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by vvs_75 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I got my nano which was supposable need just to replace battery and its dead
frown.gif
but I have coming another one in a few days.

Also I took apart my nano and it’s possibly that I be able to squeeze two 47mF Simic II caps. Simic II is best ELNA electrolytic and quite few people prefer it to the BG.

In meanwhile I am working on second part of the mod, which is film caps dock for my nano.



Well with that setup, are you going to be using resistors in series as well?
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 1:07 AM Post #183 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I added a spiel on the nano 2G at the bottom of the original post. Anyone with a nano 2G who can confirm or disprove my conjectures would be of great help, as I don't have one on hand.

I'll post it here to save you time
wink.gif


[size=medium]iPod nano 2G[/size] - untested

That Apple branded 66AJSTB is supposed to be similar to the Wolfson WM8750, which should be similar tot he WM8975, according to the iPodlinux site. If anyone is so daring as to slice and dice their nano 2G's beautiful finish for the education of the community, I'm sure at least one person will be grateful for your DIY spirit. If my memory serves me, the 5G's WM8758 was supposed to be similar to the WM8750 when it actually borrowed more from the WM8978. If the 66AJSTB is more like the 5G's in that it shares the pinout of the WM8978, then the pair of caps sitting at the bottom middle of the chip, the ones with the darker yellow colour than the outside pairs, might be what you're looking for. In my experience, Apple has placed the target caps side by side, a fact that helped me figure out the diyMod 5G. If this policy is true, then the left side of the chip (as shown) cannot hold the traces we're looking for. If the 66AJSTB has the same pinout as the WM8978, then that darker yellow pair of caps process the information from OUT3 and OUT4 from the WM8978 datasheet, our target line out feeds. The leftmost dark yellow cap would then be OUT4, right, and the rightmost would be OUT3, which would be the left line output.
front-circuit.jpg




This post is interesting. I have a 2G nano (8gb), but before I choose to open it up I would need more information. If we could come to a conclusion on the locations of the correct caps, then I'd give it a shot! This ipod too is collecting dust!
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 1:23 AM Post #184 of 3,220
My encouragement to you, wgr73, is that you could solder some wire to those caps without removing them. If it doesn't work out, you can desolder the wires just as quickly and nothing else will be affected in the operation of your iPod, assuming you don't snap a ribbon cable or something
wink.gif
.
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 3:03 AM Post #185 of 3,220
Lol, thats true! Wouldn't want to do that again. I'll think about it.
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 7:03 AM Post #186 of 3,220
The correct caps are this one : 6,3 Volt / 47 µF / NX Hi-Q / 6,3 mm / 7,0 mm ?
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 7:36 AM Post #189 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
You can use anything you want, but yes, those are the "correct" ones.


Higher the µF is, better it is ?

How many wires I have to sold for the Video ? 3 : L, R & ground ? or only 2 : L & R ?
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 9:33 AM Post #190 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It's not just the capacitor and headphones though. You also have to take into account the input impedance of the amplifier you're using. I think a typical amp has about 10Kohm to 50Kohm of impedance, so that in conjunction with the headphones determines the bass response. Assuming you're using Grados at 32ohm impedance and an amp with 50K input impedance and 47uF BGs,

f = 1/(2*pi*(50,000+32)*47uf)
f = 1/(2*pi*50,032**0.000047)
f = 0.0677Hz



Apologies, I forgot about the headphone amp. In that case then only the amp input impedance is seen by the DAC, you don't need to include the headphone impedance as it is seen by the amplifier, not the DAC.
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 12:22 PM Post #191 of 3,220
Are there any guides to do the 80G Video iPod? I think I may try this over the holiday shutdown.
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I'm still a bit leary about cracking open my ipod though.
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Thanks
James
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 6:36 PM Post #192 of 3,220
James:

I haven't put together a guide because I don't think it's all that necessary. There's enough information on the OP that will get your iPod opened and diyModded. If you're really that uncomfortable doing it, I can do it for you. Essentially you need to crack it open, desolder two SMD caps and two SMD inductors, solder two tiny gauge wires and you're set. The most intimidating part of the mod for most would be opening the iPod, but there are plenty of walkthroughs on the internet, two of which I've listed in the OP.

Here's a pictorial:
iPod 5th Generation (Video) Disassembly: Installing Logic Board - iPod Parts

Here's the video for the iPod video:
ifixipodsfast.com iPod How To Video Tutorials - iPod Video Logic Board / Clickwheel Replacement Tutorial


Hope all goes well for you.
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 6:40 PM Post #193 of 3,220
THanks for the reply. So my main concern, after cracking it, is the board layout. Finding the right devices to remove and where to solder. Is it going to be the same as the 4G?

James
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 6:53 PM Post #194 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by bobby001 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Higher the µF is, better it is ?

How many wires I have to sold for the Video ? 3 : L, R & ground ? or only 2 : L & R ?



Yes, generally the higher the capacity the better, but after you hit a certain size you need to start considering cap quality. You only need something that can take as much as 1.55V, so that helps with reducing the size. Black Gate offers probably the highest quality nonpolar electrolytic you can find in the NX Hi-Q series; its performance is supposed to be film-like. The datasheet recommends 1uF for a line out configuration, so you have an endless amount of choices. Don't forget that sponsor ALO Audio, and members EFN and stevenkelby have made some pretty insane docks with non-BG caps; warrior05 made his own BG'd dock too. It's just convenient that the BG NX Hi-Q series is small and is of such high quality that makes it an excellent choice to fit inside an iPod's shell or an iPod dock.

And you only need two wires for any of the diyMods, as far as I have seen.
 
Dec 13, 2007 at 6:54 PM Post #195 of 3,220
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamess71 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
THanks for the reply. So my main concern, after cracking it, is the board layout. Finding the right devices to remove and where to solder. Is it going to be the same as the 4G?

James



It's similar to the 4G click wheel in that the caps are conveniently placed right next to the chip. I believe the 4G photo is a different beast though.
 

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