[kikouyou]

   
 

Thanks guys

.    This is my first attempt at soldering, asides from practicing on a practice board.  I am going to order some helping hands with magnifying glass and finer soldering tips.

Be carefull not to create any short circuit, the contacts are very close to each others. You really now how to do this before jumping, you need to practice!
Do not put too much soldering, do no stay too long on a given contact, but stay long enough to have an even solder spot, apply soldering at the last moment, do not put it on the icon and then on the target spot, use a low power iron, user silver solder if you can.
Start with the easier one: nb 1 or 8
do not forget the contact to be inserted for the led to light up if you want stock light look (look at your stock tubes). In fact you need to start with this one not with the tube.
 
In order to put the tube in, you can cut in decreasing order the wires for nb 2,3,4,5,6,7,8 so that inserting the tube in the board is easy.

 

[Dave74]

  While we have the DIY folks on the thread, it would be great if I could ask a couple more questions:
 
1) What is that metal loop labeled "defeat LED" for? I see this on all of the ALO finished tubes, but not sure if that's required or what it's for. If it is required, can I just use left over wire from the tube leads?
 
2) Do the tube leads need to be cleaned/prepped in anyway before solder?
 
Thanks!

I only went this route because the 5719 Sontone tubes weren't in stock from ALO and you can order a large batch  of tubes off of eBay. 
 
I had some tips from a friend on how to solder and I also watched a few videos on YouTube about how to solder electronics. Then I made some attempts on a practice board until I felt that I got the hang of it before attempting one of the tubes.  It looks like it turned out decently, but I feel it would be much easier with the proper setup (helping hands with magnifying glass and finer tips), so I am going to wait until these come in before attempting my next tubes.   It definitely got easier as I went along though and I think I am getting the hang of it now.  I have worked as an electrician for the past 16 years however, so I do work with my hands which probably made the situation easier, but I usually don't need a magnifying glass to see what I am doing
 
It also would have been cheaper to have ordered a couple of sets of tubes already soldered from ALO than what I paid for just my soldering station and extra tips. 
 
I am happy that ALO at least offers these PCB boards though, not to mention they are also reasonable price.  

 

[bflat]

   
do not forget the contact to be inserted for the led to light up if you want stock light look (look at your stock tubes). In fact you need to start with this one not with the tube.
 

 
So is this the loop/short that comes with ALO completed tubes - between pins 1 and 8? Loop installed means LEDs will turn on, no loop means LEDs will not light up?
 
If true and you want LEDs to turn on, it seems the easiest thing is to solder the loop before soldering the tube leads.

 

[Dave74]

 
Be carefull not to create any short circuit, the contacts are very close to each others. You really now how to do this before jumping, you need to practice!
Do not put too much soldering, do no stay too long on a given contact, but stay long enough to have an even solder spot, apply soldering at the last moment, do not put it on the icon and then on the target spot, use a low power iron, user silver solder if you can.
Start with the easier one: nb 1 or 8
do not forget the contact to be inserted for the led to light up if you want stock light look (look at your stock tubes). In fact you need to start with this one not with the tube.
 
In order to put the tube in, you can cut in decreasing order the wires for nb 2,3,4,5,6,7,8 so that inserting the tube in the board is easy.

Thanks for the tips,  I agree I definitely need more practice before I will use one of these in my CDM.    I am aware of short circuits as I have been an electrician for the past 16 years and realize the problems they will cause so I will be careful of this, thanks.  I could see potentially getting a short circuit on the opposite side of the board if using too much solder and on the side that you can see as well, but at least this is more visible.  
 
I am not planning on using the first few tubes I solder as they are going to be more of a practice run and I want to be more confident in my work before trying one in the CDM as I don't want to damage my CDM.  I am also going to practice more on my practice board before attempting another tube.  I was just going to skip over the contact for the LED as I don't really care if I have the extra light and it would also make for even tougher access in an already small work area.  
 
What temp did you set your iron at?  I am using a Hakko FX888D set at 750F with the stock tip.  One thing I am finding is that it is taking a long time before the solder starts to melt, I wonder if I need to tin the tip better? But I won't be trying until I get my smaller tips delivered so this could also change things.  I did try 600F and it took even longer.   I am attempting to heat up the elements that I am going to solder, not touching the solder to the iron tip (solder on opposite side of tube wire).  
 
 
 
Good idea for cutting the wires in decreasing order as I was bending them to get them into the holes, this should make it easier on future tubes  I am also going to have to get some diagonal cutting pliers for electronics as mine will not cut flush.
 
Thanks again

Dave.

 

[Dave74]

   
So is this the loop/short that comes with ALO completed tubes - between pins 1 and 8? Loop installed means LEDs will turn on, no loop means LEDs will not light up?
 
If true and you want LEDs to turn on, it seems the easiest thing is to solder the loop before soldering the tube leads.

Yes.  I think Ken also mentions it in his tube rolling video and he said you could cut it if you do not want the LED light.

 

[KB]

Hey Guys,
 
We had a run of CDM protective cases finally made last week. These are made by our friends over at Black Star Bags, and feature breathable fabric by Sunbrella. The design is meant to be easy to use and allow for ample ventilation of your CDM but still protect it from everyday use. Please check out the new CDM cases HERE, available while supplies last.
 
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Ken

 

[bflat]

@KB Nice! I like how you went the more casual route.
 
Any chance on Mullard or other tubes any time soon? Stock seems pretty low.

 

[raypin]

mmmm.......to Alo: any chance that I can purchase a black chassis of the cdm? I have the silver. tia.

 

[cscales]

I have just finished skimming this thread. Some have experienced phone>CDM interference.

I do not use a DAP, I stream Tidal, going to airplane mode is not an option.

Should I cross CDM off my list?

 

[FidelityCastro]

I have just finished skimming this thread. Some have experienced phone>CDM interference.

I do not use a DAP, I stream Tidal, going to airplane mode is not an option.

Should I cross CDM off my list?

If you are stacking it you might get the interference (i generally find with a smartphone that the interference comes when the phone is doing other things in the background).
If you put the source a few inches away, the interference goes away.

 

[coolmingli]

  mmmm.......to Alo: any chance that I can purchase a black chassis of the cdm? I have the silver. tia.

you want to trade? I have black chassis but like the silver better.

 

[raypin]

mm......thanks for the offer. I'll wait for Alo's reply as I prefer to keep the silver and add a black chassis (purely for aesthetic reasons). If Alo won't sell, I'll trade.

 

[frankraindog]

Did someone still try the CDM with the new Sennheiser HD-800S ?

 

[raypin]

mmm... if you are asking: ..can the alo cdm drive the hd 800 s? Sure it can, but you need to use balanced headphone cable. Using the single-ended, I have to max out the volume on both my ak 380 cu (line-out activated) and the cdm (high gain, 100% on the volume pot) to reach just above my normal listening volume. How does it sound? As well as can be expected out of the hd 800 S. Is the cdm the best amp for the 800 S? For a portable, I'd say it is one of the best but we all know that the 800 needs the best possible amp to perform its best: a desktop-class amp is mandatory.
 
The mass kobo 404 balanced portable amp, on the other hand, is a much better portable amp for the hd 800 S (or the 800). It easily drives the 800 S and 800. Better dynamics. More powerful and refined sound.
 
Tested: 1.) ak 380 cu + cdm (unbal) +  unbalanced stefan audioart endorphin + hd 800 S. 2.) ak 380 cu + mass kobo 394 (balanced) + senn bal headphone xlr cable + hd 800 S.

 

[FidelityCastro]

mmm... if you are asking: ..can the alo cdm drive the hd 800 s? Sure it can, but you need to use balanced headphone cable. Using the single-ended, I have to max out the volume on both my ak 380 cu (line-out activated) and the cdm (high gain, 100% on the volume pot) to reach just above my normal listening volume. How does it sound? As well as can be expected out of the hd 800 S. Is the cdm the best amp for the 800 S? For a portable, I'd say it is one of the best but we all know that the 800 needs the best possible amp to perform its best: a desktop-class amp is mandatory.

The mass kobo 394 balanced amp, on the other hand, is a much better portable amp for the hd 800 S (or the 800). It easily drives the 800 S and 800. Better dynamics. More powerful and refined sound.

Tested: 1.) ak 380 cu + cdm (unbal) +  unbalanced stefan audioart endorphin + hd 800 S. 2.) ak 380 cu + mass kobo 394 (balanced) + senn bal headphone xlr cable + hd 800 S.

Blimey that's a very clear example of the drive needed for different headphones. With IEMs - even harder to please ones - I find I need barely any volume on high gain mode on the CDM. Your example shows how tough the HD800s must be to drive.