Super (capacitor) charging your iFi Zen Can (and other zen products and possibly other manufacturers)
May 26, 2023 at 9:17 AM Post #31 of 93
I downgraded from iFi iPower X to a cheap 5V 10A 50W brick from Amazon, labelled "Velain". Probably it's no longer available from this brand or seller next week.

I noticed no downgrade of sound with Beyerdynamic Xelentos (16Ω, 114db). I noticed more "oompf" with AKG K1000. The K712 benefit from a better amp and are easier to drive, but the K1000 still excel in hot weather.

Yes, as said, the Zen CAN by design is fairly agnostic to external power quality. The biggest issue is enough current and low coupling capacitance from mains.

"The Zen DAC (and incidentally the NEO which is more similar than different in design) use LC filtering and linear regulators for all critical circuitry, switching regulators for the rest, except the headphone Output stage. The headphone Output stage runs from 5V with extra LC filtering as it contains a switching inverter to generate -5V. This circuit has good but finite power supply rejection. So there may differences in power supply quality audible with headphones."

But not with external headphone amp, power amp or active speakers?

The HP Power supply is further filtered for the DAC Analogue stage, but it also runs somewhat indirectly from the external PSU.

Thor
 
Jun 17, 2023 at 3:53 AM Post #33 of 93
Hey. If I will buy linear power supply (4 amper) for Zen Can. It will give something for Lcd-2c ? Or with regular power supply(2.4a) it already work with its full potential? Sorry for my English

Set the Zen Can to 12dB gain, assuming a DAC with standard output voltage. Enable bass boost. Use balanced connection.

Select a song with high dynamic range (see dynamic range database).

Slowly increase volume to a comfortable level. Listen for a while, then turn up more, but by bit.

If the Amplifier starts to overload, sound "falls apart", "sounds mushy" etc. your powersupply could use an upgrade to more current.

You can also compare before/after.

Thor
 
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Jun 17, 2023 at 9:35 AM Post #34 of 93
Set the Zen Can to 12dB gain, assuming a DAC with standard output voltage. Enable bass boost. Use balanced connection.

Select a song with high dynamic range (see dynamic range database).

Slowly increase volume to a comfortable level. Listen for a while, then turn up more, but by bit.

If the Amplifier starts to overload, sound "falls apart", "sounds mushy" etc. your powersupply could use an upgrade to more current.

You can also compare before/after.

Thor
I am makes this experiment on balanced cable and not hear any distortion or other problems. Lcd2c is 101db sensitivity 70oms. Interesting how match current they need to work their full potential.
 
Jun 17, 2023 at 10:32 AM Post #35 of 93
I am makes this experiment on balanced cable and not hear any distortion or other problems. Lcd2c is 101db sensitivity 70oms. Interesting how match current they need to work their full potential.

Actually, sensitivity is 112dB/V which is rather high.

from here: https://reference-audio-analyzer.pro/en/report/hp/audeze-lcd-2c.php#gsc.tab=0

So you rarely can expect to get over 2V peak across the headphone which translates into < 30mA peak current. At this current level you are still within the Class A operation of the Zen CAN.

I use Fostex T50RP modified, which need 12dB bass boost and are only around 102dB/V after mod (extra damping of rear wave). They are also 50Ohm.

So I need an extra ~ 18dB output over your LCD2C for a similar SPL, or 16V Peak which with the 54 Ohm Impedance needs 0.3A peak, which at 24V supply is 7VA for musical peaks.

With two channels we need 14VA for Audio and another 3.6VA+ for the quiescent current or around 3.5A maximum, so a 2.4A or even 3A (iFi iPower 5V) PSU runs out of steam.

My Diana TC are similar sensitivity (102dB/1V) but have a higher impedance, so they need less power with only 180mA peak. But even there the power is marginal with a 3A PSU.

Take a Dan Clark Ether 2 with 108dB/V but 18 Ohm you need a similar 180mA peak so again, 2.4A or 3A will be marginal.

And this assumes that the 2.4A rated current is even delivered.

Thor
 
Jun 18, 2023 at 1:48 AM Post #37 of 93
Hey Thor quick question: is the only difference between the V1 and V2 Zen Dac the 16 core XMOS chip?

I had no involvement with V2. Superficially it does however appear this way.

Thor
 
Jun 18, 2023 at 10:33 AM Post #39 of 93
@Thorsten Loesch , do you think it could be good for ZenCan? Linear with 5x4700uF capacitors. Relatively expensive but still way cheaper than investing in Pro iCan :wink:

https://nostromo.audio/pl/zasilacze-do-urzadzen-audio/149-zasilacz-liniowy-nostromo-5v-6a.html

I have no direct experience. On paper it looks ok, but rather expensive, compared to this:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005001770635189.html

Toroidal and similar transformers are poor in terms of mains leakage, unless explicitly made with electrostatic screens. On the other hand dual chamber EI transformers (like in the cheap Aliexpress Supply) are are about as good as it gets.

If this mains leakage becomes a problem or not will depend on system context.

Thor
 
Jun 30, 2023 at 10:17 PM Post #40 of 93
To this day, no solution exists without requiring 2 semesters course in EE nor a simple product recommendation. If recommending products is undesirable for political reasons it's understandable, but there's also no list of "5 things that could work" either. In short, I spent 100 hours researching and trying to figure out what people are saying and I still have a 2.4A stock wallwart. When I calculate my 100 hours spent, I am starting to feel bad, because at this point a $1000 amp would have been better, but my whole point was to get a good value amp. I do not blame anyone as I know it's a mixture of conditions causing the whole situation.

Nevertheless, the idea that my zen stack is redeemable with "just a few easy changes" is making me angry sour. It's not even easy to figure out what to do. The best angle of attack is to buy something that's admittedly "totally unknown quality" from aliexpress. Are you kidding me. I know I got a good stack here with some good stuff inside it but I'm like hundreds of others who are flailing not knowing what to do. At this point, based on "I don't recommend products" and "other statements" I don't even know if it makes sense to pay $$$ upgrading the power supply or to just sell it on craigslist.

I like the product and the idea you can make it better but I'm sour. I want to buy something that makes it more worth it than sinking $$ into an expensive amp, because I know it has the DNA. But I'm clueless what to do. Overall I'm pretty satisfied for what I paid but also I should have paid more for something else.

Who can help me?
 
Jul 2, 2023 at 5:59 AM Post #41 of 93
To this day, no solution exists without requiring 2 semesters course in EE nor a simple product recommendation. If recommending products is undesirable for political reasons it's understandable, but there's also no list of "5 things that could work" either.

I will take several posts to address your comments, let me start with "where are your recommendations"?

First, I feel that anyone that makes a purchasing recommendation as in "Buy XXX" should first of all have direct product experience and provide reasoning and ideally objective results that support the reasoning. Of course, that makes for a complex recommendation, the truth is never simple.

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You will not get the simple but wrong recommendation from me.

If you want "simple but wrong" there are many options.

This ranges from the website that suggests "buy the most SI..AD you can afford" without explaining why this a good thing or actually clearly stating that there is no observed or proven reliable correlation with perceived sound quality and SI..AD.

When pressed repeatedly the site owner, roughly rendered, stated that sound quality was no concern of the site and they promote a specific measure because they believe it indicated good engineering. I have of course no problem with anyone doing such a thing. But operating on belief basically makes it religious cult that believes things that have no proven basis in science, despite presenting themselves as "extra scientific".

On the other extreme you have many review personalities that offer "ipse dixit" recommendations that seem to change to every other week but in each week are delivered with a clear eyed "Tall we stand under Star & Stripes" 100 miles stare. Whatever is todays item is always best. Next weeks item is even better.

And there are in-between reviewers. Few take care to qualify their recommendations, few are smart enough to avoid recommending anything..

They all have simple answers for you.

I mainly have questions I suggest you ask yourself and other questions you should ask vendors that ask for your money and some guides to make up your mind.

I understand this will not suit most people, that is why this whole thread is in the DIY (DO IT YOURSELF) section, not in any of the many BIY (BUY IT YOURSELF) sections.

Second, I am semi retired in an asian country, where a high quality of life is affordable (and there is no bill for heating), because I have limited income.

I am not running a website doing reviews.

I have no "paytrons" supporting me in anything.

Nobody sends me free products to test.

What I write here earns me zero dollars and the time I spend is mine, nobody pays me for it.

I am trying to be as clear and direct as I can, without stepping from the high road of a complex truth that leaves often more questions than answers to the low road of a false certainty, which no doubt would be much more popular.

Thor
 
Jul 2, 2023 at 7:21 AM Post #42 of 93
In short, I spent 100 hours researching and trying to figure out what people are saying and I still have a 2.4A stock wallwart.

Paralysis by overanalysis?

When I calculate my 100 hours spent, I am starting to feel bad, because at this point a $1000 amp would have been better, but my whole point was to get a good value amp. I do not blame anyone as I know it's a mixture of conditions causing the whole situation.

What makes you think "a $1,000 Amp" would necessarily and reliably be better than a Zen CAN? Just curious to understand your reasoning, not having a go.

Nevertheless, the idea that my zen stack is redeemable with "just a few easy changes" is making me angry sour.

Well, you kinda got caught out. Sorry. The whole Zen range was intended to be inexpensive and expandable, giving clear upgrade path's within the system, with each Unit also being valid "stand alone".

For example, there was supposed to be a super capacitor PSU in a Zen case, which never happened as product. A Zen DAC+ was also intended, instead of it iFi launched the Zen ONE which is a much worse product than the Zen DAC+ was meant to be, but at least it is premium priced.

Placing the PSU external means it can be made very inexpensive / commodity for a low price to market and performance that is adequate and allows the customer to upgrade later.

Had the supplied PSU been 5V/4A I specified, instead 5V/2.4A supplied, it would have been adequate for a lot of headphones.

As is, with 2,4A the Zen CAN is not able to drive low impedance, low sensitivity headphones and even less so if using the balanced output.

If I was you, I would be a little peeved at iFi for not following the designers recommendations.

Past that, external power supply reviews are a bit of a swamp. There is usually no objective qualification or quantification of performance and sadly the very websites that would be well placed to evaluate

It's not even easy to figure out what to do.

I thought I was very clear?

1) If you have a problem with too limited power from Zen CAN, get a power supply with more current, much more than 4A will not do good. The noise levels of this power supply are fairly inconsequential. If noise leakage from mains will cause trouble will depend on the whole system, ideally mains leakage is lower than even medically certified power supplies provide.

The standard ifi iPower & iPower X are marginal, but better than stock (also in other areas) and the iPower X will have slightly more power available than iPower.

One could use two iFi iPower with a "Y" adapter to parallel two units, to get above the 4A limit. This is safe to do.

The iPower at 49 USD was pushing the value for money equation, it is now discontinued and replaced with with the "iPower 2" which at 69 USD represents very poor value for money.

It likely costs less to make than the original iPower, having switched from USA made parts for the actual switching power part to domestic chinese parts and thus makes a difficult recommendation.

Second hand, later generation iPower's at 50% or more discount should be a safe buy.

Then there is the iPower Elite 5V. At 299 USD and 60VA it's overkill and heavily overpriced on both fair pricing and value for money grounds.

A 3rd Party 4A rated power supply is recommended, from the outset.

For a number of reasons (see this thread end to end) a "cheap generic" Linear power supply will usually be a better choice than a cheap generic SMPS.

2) The Zen DAC (I cannot recommend Zen ONE with good conscience) will benefit from a high quality external power supply, the emphasis here is low noise.

A iFi iPower will be a good fit, going up to iPower X etc. will give zero benefit. Again, a suitable linear PSU is usually recommended over a generic SMPS.

If noise leakage from mains will cause trouble will depend on the whole system.

Ideally mains leakage is lower than even medically certified power supplies provide.

3) The iFi iPower range are among the better SMPS for Audio, because they are designed for audio and have a number of technical parameters that make them a better choice than common SMPS.

Noise, mains leakage, output impedance and short term pulse power are all significantly better than "generic" SMPS.

Certain types of inexpensive linear PSU's offer a different tradeoff of qualities, that make them better suited in some situations. As they are also available for a lot less than iPower sell for now they make a solid recommendation.

Most expensive "audiophile" linear power supplies fail to justify the asking price and often use design features that make them WORSE in practice, than cheaper generic items.

A strong sign that the power supply may be inferior for audio use is the presence of toroidal or R-Core power transformers. These can be designed correctly for audio, most "off the shelf" types however are not designed correctly.

Ask the Vendor if their mains transformer incorporates a "electrostatic screen" that is returned to mains earth. If not, avoid.

There are some reasonably fair priced "Audiophile" power supplies incorporating toroidal transformers that have custom made toroidal transformers with electrostatic screens.

Pretty much any "MIC" Power Supply I encountered do not have them, some very high priced and well reviewed linear PSU's nominally made in the west also miss them.

Price is not a reliable indicator of quality.

Also, Numerical LED or OLED Screen Displays tend to cause excessive noise, avoid anything that has these, a simple "on/off" indicator LED is fine. Buy a multimeter if you MUST be able to read the voltage on demand.

4) Adding (optionally) super capacitor bank's can help further. This is distinctly DIY, or very expensive if buying pre-made "audiophile" options. If DIY I think the Value for money proposition is solid.

The best angle of attack is to buy something that's admittedly "totally unknown quality" from aliexpress. Are you kidding me.

This would be an area where the objective performance focused websites could help by doing actual tests, but when they do they try hard to show that different external power supplies make no difference, because they don't "believe" in that sort of thing.

That said, it is not "totally unknown quality". And no, I'm not kidding. Based on analysing the internal pictures we can say a lot about both component quality and design.

Incidentally since I started the thread, I purchased one of these cheap linear PSU's from aliexpress and was able to test the both current and noise and can confirm the power supply meets it's specifications and I opened it up and the parts match the advertised ones and appear genuine to my eye. At the price this is hard to do better.

Actually, I know ten times as expensive audiophile linear supplies of similar power that do not use Nichicon Audio grade Electrolytic Capacitors and have mains transformers with worse leakage.

Does it sound any good? I don't know.

It was a 24V type meant to power one of these cheap PCM56 DAC's, which I ordered at the same time and which was cancelled because they are sold out. I have nothing else that uses 24V.

So I cannot comment on that.

The power supply got shelved and I bought a second hand Marantz PM-75 made in Japan in 1989 with a TDA1541 DAC instead.

At this point, based on "I don't recommend products" and "other statements" I don't even know if it makes sense to pay $$$ upgrading the power supply or to just sell it on craigslist.

Well, look at it this way.

The designer of the products suggest that the power supply shipped with the Zen CAN is limiting output power and that running the Zen DAC from USB Power can be improved upon. He notes that this "upgradability" was designed in.

He then suggests some Aliexpress Power supplies he found that cost less than 100 USD for a Zen DAC/CAN stack that cost you over 300 USD. It is obvious that he has no financial interest in the sale of these items and lists a number of reasons why he thinks these power supplies make a decent inexpensive choice.

Does it make sense to follow this advise?

Or should you sell your Zen stack on Craigslist loosing probably 150 Bux in the process and then spend another 1,850 Bux to buy a 1,000 Bux Amp and 1,000 Bux DAC? Possibly unheard?

Overall I'm pretty satisfied for what I paid but also I should have paid more for something else.

"I should have paid more for something else."

You think that randomly paying more for something else will reliably give a better result?

Thor
 
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Jul 3, 2023 at 7:01 AM Post #43 of 93
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Jul 3, 2023 at 7:27 AM Post #44 of 93
Brilliant, I hadn't thought of this!
Hypotactically, if you had a device that needs 7Amps, can it pull the 7A from two 4A PSU's ?

https://musicmaker.ie/voodoo-lab-vl-ppav-output-splitter-barrel-y-cable-4-in?
PSU Y.jpg

As a general rule, yes, for DC supplies and preferably with identical power supplies. Some kinds of supplies ( nothing I can think of, TBH) may not work correctly, but this will be rare.

The way 99% of all power supplies, switched mode as well as linear work means the slightly higher voltage supply (due to tolerance) will carry the current initially.

Once the voltage drops low enough the second supply will contribute.

The resistance in wiring and connectors will act like "current sharing resistors" to a degree.

For example, I use two different 72V/5A chargers to charge my electric motorcycle in half time. Quite a few years now, both battery and chargers are fine.

Thor
 
Jul 7, 2023 at 2:47 AM Post #45 of 93
i am loving the fact were at the stage its viable to use supercapacitors in consumer grade stuff, the first i saw was only a few weeks ago in a new miniware cordless soldering iron, great seeing them used in audio tech too. id consider something like this myself but i run from a Gryphon which is already battery powered, i doubt theres any audible difference between lithium batteries and supercaps (unless the gryphon is capable of more than its battery allows that is which i doubt as thats what it was designed for)
 

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