Tax and voltage; the japanese amps at 100/110v while we need 220/240v over here.
The import fees are understandable and there isn't much you can do about that...but the voltage issue is easily dealt with by getting either a voltage transformer or an aftermarket power supply. It has to be the right one, of course. (If you get the wrong power-related equipment, you risk frying the amp. When in doubt, consult experts in the other STAX threads.)
In my case, I got a regulated linear power supply and a reverse polarity converter. (For reference, I'm in the US.)
https://www.jameco.com/z/DDU120100H...ngle-Output-12-Volt-1-Amp-12-Watt_170245.html
https://store.truetone.com/1-spot-reverse-polarity-converter
How would you guys say the L300 stack up against the HD650? What I love about the HD650 is how inoffensive it is to my ears - all my other headphones can be a bit fatiguing in one way or another. The HD650 is just sillky smooth. I am hoping for something similar or better in the L300. What do you guys think ? General SQ comparison would be very much appreciated.
The nice thing about the HD 650 is that pretty much any recording sounds good on it. It's close to neutral, but on the slightly warm and dark side. Good clarity but not overbearing. As far as high-end audiophile headphones go, it has a "normal" level of performance, but doesn't commit the blunders that are common with so many headphones that are clearly better but with compromises.
I think STAX in general (and particularly the L300) is higher performance. There's something about electrostats that give them a certain magical transparency I have not encountered in other headphones. The lightness of the diaphragm along with other aspects of the technology give it very low distortion and rapid transient speed.
The Lambda series are more linear than nearly all other headphones (as evidenced by frequency sweeps and measurements) but, as with any headphone, still have deviations. The most prominent peaks are in the 7-10 kHz range. This is beyond the presence region and much less of a problem than if the peaks were around 3-6 kHz, which is not uncommon in dynamic drivers. Since they're already so neutral, it's not difficult to equalize them.
Both the L300 and HD 650 have some roll-off in the sub-bass measurements, but thankfully, this was not an issue for me during listening. I realized that they could extend deeper than the measurements suggested, and I could hear all the bass just fine with nearly all music. They also have moderate bass humps, so with most music, they come off as more slightly bass-heavy than slightly bass-light. You can always fill in the deepest gaps and trim down the humps with EQ. (Just be sure to reduce the gain in your player by at least the amount of your largest boost/cut to avoid distortion.)
Here's a frequency sweep you can play in a video player:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pyi1gug2s2jumzq/sweep.mp4?dl=0