[Kad998]

I'm sure the W1ma sounds good. Of course there will be an improvement, but I just wanted clarification of the magnitude of the difference. Its just financially I'm on the ropes because.....someone offered a mint zx2 for 500 Dollars. I think its a steal so I'm taking it for now, but then the thought of the W1MA creeped in. Going to the Sony Store and getting WM1a is $1200 plus 8 percent New York sales tax is about 1300 dollars. Then for the andromedas I would try to have to get hands on the 4.4mm kimber kable for mmcx. That's around 200 or so? So we are talking 1500 Dollars vs 500 Dollars. Of course there is the law of diminishing returns but for me almost 3x the price for like 3% difference is a bit harsh. That's why I'm trying more detailed impressions from people who have heard both so I can make an informed decision. If the difference is most definitely noticeable like going ZX2 SE to TRRS, I wouldn't mind spending the extra money.

My advice would be to go for it! If you get the zx2 when you’ve had the WM1A on your mind, it’ll continue to bug you.... You don’t want to wonder “what if” .. because you’ll end up getting it later on anyway! Pull the trigger on it!

 

[Vitaly2017]

Hey guys I think I found a new sound improvement in the new method switch we are using on 1a!

This is the method I find sounds best.
It might be hard to hear it but I think it has improved treble and details in treble to. It feels more precise and refined in treble area. Very clean!


1 install wn1a/z+ fw
2 switch to 1z, restart
3 reinstal wm1a/z+ fw
4 then switch back to 1a restart
5 reapply the wm1a/z+ fw

 

[Ravenous]

Honest question...

Before we start, the things below are actual firmware mods, and not just tunings.
I think someone was asking about some, once upon a time.


WM1A/Z+

This mod brings improvements to the sound on both WM1A and WM1Z, better battery life,
and allows switching your WM1A to WM1Z and back, or your WM1Z to WM1A and back.

How to: First install the firmware, and then go to "Settings", "Device Settings", "Reset/Format",
and then choose "Switch Device Model". After switching the model, install this firmware again, in
order to fully apply the new model's sound signature.

Switching the model is not mandatory, as the mod brings sound improvements for both players.

The process of switching the model takes about 1 or 2 seconds, and then the player will restart
automatically. You can always see what is your current model by going to "Settings", "Certificates",
or by going to "Settings", "Unit information".




WM1A to 1Z (for WM1A only)

This mod only enables switching your WM1A to the sound of stock WM1Z. This is intended for WM1A
only, but if you install it on your WM1Z by mistake, nothing wrong will happen.

How to: First install this firmware, and then go to "Settings", "Device Settings", "Reset/Format", and
then choose "Switch Device Model". After switching the model, install this firmware again, in order
to fully apply the 1Z sound signature to your 1A.

To check the current model, go to "Settings", "Certificates", or go to "Settings", "Unit information".



Frequently Asked Questions

- How do I get back to stock firmware?
First make sure you switched back to the original model for your player, and then install the
"WM1 Back to Stock" firmware. After installing this firmware, you can then go ahead and install
any other official version, like 2.00, 3.00, 3.01, 3.02, etc.

- I do not use the player in English, and I cannot find the Switch Device Model function in the
"Reset/Format" menu. What do I do?
The Switch Device Model function replaces the Factory reset function. So if you are not using the
player in English, just use the Factory reset option. I promise it will not actually do a factory reset,
as long as you are using WM1A/Z+ or WM1A to 1Z.

- Do I need to be on version 3.02 before installing one of the mods?
No, you do not.

- If I am already using one of the two firmware mods, do I need to first switch back to 1A or
to 1Z, and then I can install any new versions of the mods?
No, you can just go ahead and install new versions of the mods, when/if they appear, unless
specified otherwise.

- If I am using the "WM1A/Z+" firmware and I want to try the "WM1A to 1Z" firmware, do I first need
to switch the model back to original?
No, you can just install the other firmware and that's it. Just remember that for going back to stock,
you should first switch to the original model for your player.

- What happens if I switch the model, but then I don't install the firmware again?
Nothing wrong will happen. The sound might not be the same as if installing the firmware again though.
Feel free to experiment, but the recommendation is that you should install the firmware again after
switching the model.

Spoiler: More about this question

If you were on 1Z, and then you switch on 1A and you don't install the firmware again, the sound will mainly be the one of 1A, but it will still have slight characteristics of the 1Z sound.

Same goes if you are on 1A, then you switch to 1Z, but then you don't install the firmware again. The sound will mainly be the one of 1Z, but it will still have slight characteristics of the 1A sound.

Spoiler: Additional info

If your player is on region J or on region U, you can go to "Settings", and then to "Certificate", in order to
check the current installed firmware.




Also, both WM1A/Z+ and WM1A to 1Z mods have hardware accelerated rendition of the UI enabled. This means a more faster, responsive UI, in general.

LINK

Thanks for everyone who tried this while in earlier stages!

Hope you'll enjoy!

Bought you a beer my friend! Atleast, I hope it was enough for one lol! Thanks again for sharing your work with everyone!

 

[MrWalkman]

Bought you a beer my friend! Atleast, I hope it was enough for one lol! Thanks again for sharing your work with everyone!

Cheers!

 

[Gamerlingual]

Cheers!

Guess bought a beer means you bought a beer to drink in Mr. Walkman’s honor?

 

[Ravenous]

Guess bought a beer means you bought a beer to drink in Mr. Walkman’s honor?

Lol that would be disingenuous in my opinion. Nah, I donated to him.

 

[Damz87]

1000th post on headfi and what better way to celebrate than shouting a beer for @MrWalkman

Enjoy the beer mate! Haven’t got a 1A to try out your amazing work, but it’s appreciated nonetheless.

Plus, i’ll take any excuse to crack open a cold one in the middle of the day on a Tuesday haha

Cheers boys!!

 

[MrWalkman]

1000th post on headfi and what better way to celebrate than shouting a beer for @MrWalkman

Enjoy the beer mate! Haven’t got a 1A to try out your amazing work, but it’s appreciated nonetheless.

Plus, i’ll take any excuse to crack open a cold one in the middle of the day on a Tuesday haha


Cheers boys!!

Thanks, mate!

By the way, WM1A/Z+ also brings improvements to a stock 1Z.

To try it, just install WM1A/Z+, and that's it. Or, you could try checking the new 1A sound on your 1Z. Install the firmware, then switch to 1A as described in the main post, and then install the firmware again.

It's all in the main post, including how to return to the stock firmware

 

[Damz87]

Thanks, mate!

By the way, WM1A/Z+ also brings improvements to a stock 1Z.

To try it, just install WM1A/Z+, and that's it. Or, you could try checking the new 1A sound on your 1Z. Install the firmware, then switch to 1A as described in the main post, and then install the firmware again.

It's all in the main post, including how to return to the stock firmware

Awesome, I didn't realise the 1Z will also benefit. I'll give it a go thanks man!

 

[Vitaly2017]

1000th post on headfi and what better way to celebrate than shouting a beer for @MrWalkman

Enjoy the beer mate! Haven’t got a 1A to try out your amazing work, but it’s appreciated nonetheless.

Plus, i’ll take any excuse to crack open a cold one in the middle of the day on a Tuesday haha


Cheers boys!!

Thanks, mate!

By the way, WM1A/Z+ also brings improvements to a stock 1Z.

To try it, just install WM1A/Z+, and that's it. Or, you could try checking the new 1A sound on your 1Z. Install the firmware, then switch to 1A as described in the main post, and then install the firmware again.

It's all in the main post, including how to return to the stock firmware

I support that! You should absolutely try wm1a/z+ on your wm1z switched to 1a !!! I am sure you will love it!

 

[Duncan]

I support that! You should absolutely try wm1a/z+ on your wm1z switched to 1a !!! I am sure you will love it!

If the tiger says it, you know it’s the truth

 

[Damz87]

I support that! You should absolutely try wm1a/z+ on your wm1z switched to 1a !!! I am sure you will love it!

Alright I'll definitely try tonight and report back. Maybe after a few more brews to get in the zone hahaha

If the tiger says it, you know it’s the truth

100%. Tiger knows best

 

[Vitaly2017]

@MrWalkman

I admire your work ! Thanks to you , you made our 1a and 1z community even more stronger and with new super sonic sound quality ability! Thanks for letting me be your ears for the new fw and I feel proud to be part of it!

To celebrate this I decided to not only give you 1 beer but a whole champagne bottle ! Hope you enjoy it !!!

This was mighty Mr.Tiger Ears ROARrsss

 

[lumdicks]

Awesome, I didn't realise the 1Z will also benefit. I'll give it a go thanks man!

Try and you will be amazed by the improvement on your stock 1Z.

I have a Romi modded 1A and a stock 1Z, both with WM1A/Z+ so I am having 2 keys to heaven.

 

[Ravenous]

Hey guys I think I found a new sound improvement in the new method switch we are using on 1a!

This is the method I find sounds best.
It might be hard to hear it but I think it has improved treble and details in treble to. It feels more precise and refined in treble area. Very clean!


1 install wn1a/z+ fw
2 switch to 1z, restart
3 reinstal wm1a/z+ fw
4 then switch back to 1a restart
5 reapply the wm1a/z+ fw

Maybe it's just my ears adjusting... But after applying J region (as per Mindstorms suggestion) and going from stock 3.02 WM1A > WM1A/Z+ > Switch to 1Z > WM1A/Z+ > Switch to 1A> WM1A/Z+. I notice that music is a bit softer in certain areas (that were once "sharp"to my ears), yet lively still. Thanks for the suggestion! Still testing but sounds great!