Are there any other ways you could share that firmware to the public? I have stayed on Classical firmware for over a weak now, jumped to Solis today, and currently back to Classical again.
... Region E is very V shaped and can be piercing on the WM1A with some IEM's.
...
It's not so much that region E is lacking bass, more that the treble is overpowering. E was fine on my ZX300, however on the more resolving WM1A I found E to be piercing when combined with more highly resolving IEM's.
...
This subject is controversial at this time. Also of course we as human always have conformation bias (attitudes)....which always color our true objectivity of sound. The whole Sony marketing with DSEE HX is it’s ability to enhance MP3 kbps files. Keep in mind though too, that the marketing is such that it’s touted that 16bit/44.1kHz also get the treatment up-scaling them too to a 24bit character.
When interviewed (which the site is now down) the Sony engineers went on to explain “some files react”....which basically explains at times it works and at times it is a wash. Many are purists in audio, I am. A purist standpoint is less in-front. Meaning no vinyl process, no DESEE HX. No EQ, and no normalizer. Though the DSD upscale on the Sony TA-ZH1ES seems to really work. I’ve just recently been able to now with “J” region remove all EQ all the time on all IEMs and headphones, players and amps; so for many that has been an end goal. Even though we don’t judge others for liking EQ, believe that EQ adds distortions in areas. Many believe “Direct Source (Direct)” bypassing everything is the way to go with the Walkmans, yet there is no right or wrong.
The basis is the understanding that if everything is the best it can be 320 will sound better too and they do. In my uses 24bit and at times DSD and 48kHz do make a difference. But the recording and the issue of the recording (the file version) make more difference. I would rather have a well done 320 remaster than the original in DSD if the remaster was added dynamic range. But also realize I’m maybe odd, in that I would also rather take brickwalled loud modern recordings over CD first pressings 60% of the time. In short it’s a example by example issue.
Typically 24bit seems to add more air, better imaging than regular 16/44.1 files to me. But again it depends on the system tone too. Meaning I have a first edition CD that sounds better at times especially if the system I’m using has thick bass, and the new remaster is more of a V shaped remix.
A lot of this is the player and the IEMs, as well as the listener’s learning curve on learning to spot improvement. If benefits are even there they are small, and if you were not experienced to recognize them you may miss them. Also keep in mind most of this level of perception doesn’t happen in public but in a quiet dark room. Because we learn to value the most sound quality possible then we may value even an extra small %? But my reference recordings that I use all the time to test firmware, IEMs, players and regions are all 24bit. Some songs I have listened to almost every day for years. This listening process can even be like sports where you warm up your ears and brain before the event.
I do agree. All this pursuit of audio gear... but it was all to train our hearing perception.
It feels like turning on extra options will affect the "focal point" of my iems. Or maybe it is just me, so only volume auto balancing is turned on. DSEE HX was quite interesting, I felt that it did what it advertised and upscaled some low bit-rate mp3, yet it made the soundstage smaller. I own an old Sony pcm m10, and I swear to god... I can hear the difference between AAA batteries and their types: lithium / alkaline / nimh rechargeable. I once ordered custom iem cables and when I received them they were not equally loud on left right channels. I fumbled around on my player and discovered a 0.5 db difference between the channels. It just feels the focus isn't in the middle but tilted towards one side. I sent it back and when it returned, the tilt was gone.
Another thing is that resting days where you listen to nothing for a few days, maybe even a week... and you'll come back stronger. Hearing more details out of the music.
Are there any other ways you could share that firmware to the public? I have stayed on Classical firmware for over a weak now, jumped to Solis today, and currently back to Classical again.
...a tuning mod for both WM1A and WM1Z. Feel free to
give it a try and to leave your feedback below.
The tuning is based on the J region, and 3.02 firmware,
and it can be found here (click).
If you used other tunings before, it's recommended
that you first flash back to stock, and then apply any
other tunings. Stock 3.02 is availablehere (click).
Hope that some of you will find it interesting. I'll soon
have to make a post containing all these... One day
________
There is also TA-ZH1ES (WM1 3.02) which is made in a
similar way to the DMP-Z1 1.02 mod, in case some of you
are curious.
HD800 is not recommended to be driven with a portable amp even daps. You will need a capable system for it otherwise, get another headphone that is more efficient
HD800 is not recommended to be driven with a portable amp even daps. You will need a capable system for it otherwise, get another headphone that is more efficient
Ah, okay, well, here in lies my dilemma. I currently own the 1A, and my goal is to eventually purchase the TA and the HD800S to use with my 1A. But, I can only afford one right now, and want to purchase one soon while I have the funds to do so. I was going to buy the TA, and the HD660S to use temporarily with this setup, while I save for the HD880S, except that I recently learned that I won't be hearing that much of a difference listening to the TA through the HD660s. So, I thought I'd just buy the HD800S now instead, to use with my 1A alone, but you're saying that I shouldn't do so. What other choices do I have? I'll never be in the position to purchase the TA and the HD800S at the same time, as I'll need to wait about a year in-between these two purchases.
Any reasons for choosing only HD800s or TA? If you like HD800s that much (there are many other options), you can still live fine with 1A but it will be underwhelmed, not saying it's that bad but it's still do-able. If HD800s is your chosen headphone, then you should think about getting TA down the line. I'm not sure if you meant TA-A1ES? I have no Exp with this amp but I can say your HD800 would appreciate a tube amp more
...a tuning mod for both WM1A and WM1Z. Feel free to
give it a try and to leave your feedback below.
The tuning is based on the J region, and 3.02 firmware,
and it can be found here (click).
If you used other tunings before, it's recommended
that you first flash back to stock, and then apply any
other tunings. Stock 3.02 is availablehere (click).
Hope that some of you will find it interesting. I'll soon
have to make a post containing all these... One day
________
There is also TA-ZH1ES (WM1 3.02) which is made in a
similar way to the DMP-Z1 1.02 mod, in case some of you
are curious.
They appear to be failing the OneDrve / Chrome scanner though - yes, you have the option to click and "keep" rather than "Discard", however - for those new to your work, this will probably bring up alarm bells...
I wouldn't go as far as to say "wrecking" the sound signature, I personally didn't care for it and there are multiple other regions that support the BT remote; J, CN, CA, etc. Best thing to do is try and see which you prefer best, even if the region does not support the BT remote you can try and always set the player to another later on.
Many have settled on region J so should be a safe bet and the remote is supported
They appear to be failing the OneDrve / Chrome scanner though - yes, you have the option to click and "keep" rather than "Discard", however - for those new to your work, this will probably bring up alarm bells...
It now does the same for me in Chrome for any of my tunings when downloading them from GDrive, probably because they are small .exe files, no idea and nothing to do about it except packing them in .zip archives or something.
Any reasons for choosing only HD800s or TA? If you like HD800s that much (there are many other options), you can still live fine with 1A but it will be underwhelmed, not saying it's that bad but it's still do-able. If HD800s is your chosen headphone, then you should think about getting TA down the line. I'm not sure if you meant TA-A1ES? I have no Exp with this amp but I can say your HD800 would appreciate a tube amp more
My ears heat right up in a closed back headphone. I don’t care how good the MDR-Z1Rs sound, I won’t be able to hear them once I rip them off due to discomfort. Open back on the other hand let my ears breathe and I keep them on much, much longer. I heard the HD800s are getting closer to to the Z1Rs. And yes, I was hoping to stick with the TA-ZH1ES for my amp in order to retain that Sony sound signature. I just don’t want to buy the HD800s if I won’t be able to enjoy them with my 1A alone because I won’t be getting the TA for quite a while.
It now does the same for me in Chrome for any of my tunings when downloading them from GDrive, probably because they are small .exe files, no idea and nothing to do about it except packing them in .zip archives or something.
These are the only tunings that I've had this issue with, fingers crossed just a temporary hiccup their side
As an aside, I went straight for the second tuning on your post, the first track that came up from where I left off, it sounds immense... I think I'm going to have to find my top five favourites, and relate them to moods, hot swapping depending.
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