[Gamerlingual]

There some firmwares that can do that right now for you without spending any money. Try either WM1Az or WM1Az revision B. And if you’re like me and love that extra punch down there use WM1Az Bass+.

Those firmwares are on Morgen Stern’s signature, correct?

 

[Queen6]

So my remote (NWS20) arrived today, and I'm sort of guessing the battery is dead, no little light pops up when pressing any of the buttons...

If the remote is paired to a previous device, looking at it this way around, is there a way to unpair it, without the other device being present? I don't see any reset holes or anything.

I've ordered some CR1620 batteries, hope I'm not throwing good money after bad here.

Need to press multiple buttons at the same time to pair the remote.

Q-6

 

[Queen6]

So my remote (NWS20) arrived today, and I'm sort of guessing the battery is dead, no little light pops up when pressing any of the buttons...

If the remote is paired to a previous device, looking at it this way around, is there a way to unpair it, without the other device being present? I don't see any reset holes or anything.

I've ordered some CR1620 batteries, hope I'm not throwing good money after bad here.

Still working on getting mine paired... but... I've read in the manual that simply removing the battery will force you to repair.

Both BT and the Remote Commander needs to be set to on in the DAP.

Q-6

 

[Gamerlingual]

Looking at the mod thread, those are amazing looking internals inside. Now I see why people call it such an engineering marble. It really does look like it was built to provide the best audio stock out of the box

 

[RobertP]

NW-WM1Z with Orion stage2 is equivalence NW-WM1A on the same tune stage6. That's how good the 1Z is.

 

[hamhamhamsta]

Looking at the mod thread, those are amazing looking internals inside. Now I see why people call it such an engineering marble. It really does look like it was built to provide the best audio stock out of the box

You are still on honeymoon phase, it’ll wear out.

But seriously, Sony sound on 1A/1Z are really good and addicting, especially modded

 

[Hinomotocho]

I am nearing 200 hours burn in and as nicely as the sound has 'ripened' (the only word that comes to mind) I am wanting a bit more low end than the 3.02 E stock firmware offers. I'd prefer not to change regions to achieve the sound I'm after but I see people changing regions and using tuning mods combinations - do the tuning mods alone not cater to everyone's tastes, and it takes a combination to get their desired sound?
As my music is so wide and varied I fear experimenting and never being able to settle on one with so many combinations available.

 

[Redcarmoose]

I am nearing 200 hours burn in and as nicely as the sound has 'ripened' (the only word that comes to mind) I am wanting a bit more low end than the 3.02 E stock firmware offers. I'd prefer not to change regions to achieve the sound I'm after but I see people changing regions and using tuning mods combinations - do the tuning mods alone not cater to everyone's tastes, and it takes a combination to get their desired sound?
As my music is so wide and varied I fear experimenting and never being able to settle on one with so many combinations available.

I experimented with firmware only and was very satisfied with the added 1A warmth. Also if you didn’t want to use aftermarket firmware or change regions rolling back to 3.01 will add bass. I found that Jupiter 301 T1 added some nice lows to the 1A. But after changing to the famous “J” region this week, I maybe wish I would have done it sooner. I think most would be able to settle, look at it like tone knobs on a stereo.

 

[Queen6]

I am nearing 200 hours burn in and as nicely as the sound has 'ripened' (the only word that comes to mind) I am wanting a bit more low end than the 3.02 E stock firmware offers. I'd prefer not to change regions to achieve the sound I'm after but I see people changing regions and using tuning mods combinations - do the tuning mods alone not cater to everyone's tastes, and it takes a combination to get their desired sound?
As my music is so wide and varied I fear experimenting and never being able to settle on one.

Changing region is the safest option as your not replacing Sony's original data, more flipping a software switch. Region E is very V shaped and can be piercing on the WM1A with some IEM's. For more mid bass try region CA, for a less pronounced V with better bass region MX3 or bigger bass boost region TW. If listening to a lot of mixed genres and or headgear region J is best as it's the most balanced by far. You can also try the DC Phase Lineariser A or B Low to add warmth/bass.

It's not so much that region E is lacking bass, more that the treble is overpowering. E was fine on my ZX300, however on the more resolving WM1A I found E to be piercing when combined with more highly resolving IEM's. I have both the ZX300 & WM1A set to J now as that works across all genres and all my IEM's, also like MX3, however with this region there is no support for Sony's BT remote.

J is best described as being Is thick, rich & emotive, yet retains accuracy and Sony's classic sound signature. Is also worth noting that the vast majority of the custom tuning/FW is based on J for that reason. I've tried a good number of regions and always come back to J.

The custom tuning is now a big subject with over 50 variations provided by multiple creators, combined with the 16 different regions one could easily spend more time exploring than actually listening Switching to J is a safe bet as the region wont offend and many agree J & MX3 are the top choices, although what's in or on your ears is going to matter more. Beauty of the Sony DAP's is you can try differing regions, firmware & tuning without any penalty which is not to be underestimated

Q-6

 

[Queen6]

Simply sounds epic thx to Sony


Q-6

 

[Gamerlingual]

You are still on honeymoon phase, it’ll wear out.

But seriously, Sony sound on 1A/1Z are really good and addicting, especially modded

Honeymoon will only keep me more motivated to keep digging in

 

[minzink]

Hi! I tried to install the firmware mod autum+ via my windows 10 PC. However, it does not work....

After setting the firmware version to 3.02 with firware version changer the software update tool appears on PC screen. I agree to the software terms and then I am requested to connect the target device via USB with the computer. After this is done, the message will not disappear, even the computer has recognised the walkman. But firmware installation will not start; I am always requested to connect to the computer. I tried with USB massstorage on and of but always same result.

What is wrong? Can you help me out please? Any ideas?

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

[Hinomotocho]

I experimented with firmware only and was very satisfied with the added 1A warmth. Also if you didn’t want to use aftermarket firmware or change regions rolling back to 3.01 will add bass. I found that Jupiter 301 T1 added some nice lows to the 1A. But after changing to the famous “J” region this week, I maybe wish I would have done it sooner. I think most would be able to settle, look at it like tone knobs on a stereo.

Changing region is the safest option as your not replacing Sony's original data, more flipping a software switch. Region E is very V shaped and can be piercing on the WM1A with some IEM's. For more mid bass try region CA, for a less pronounced V with better bass region MX3 or bigger bass boost region TW. If listening to a lot of mixed genres and or headgear region J is best as it's the most balanced by far. You can also try the DC Phase Lineariser A or B Low to add warmth/bass.

It's not so much that region E is lacking bass, more that the treble is overpowering. E was fine on my ZX300, however on the more resolving WM1A I found E to be piercing when combined with more highly resolving IEM's. I have both the ZX300 & WM1A set to J now as that works across all genres and all my IEM's, also like MX3, however with this region there is no support for Sony's BT remote.

J is best described as being Is thick, rich & emotive, yet retains accuracy and Sony's classic sound signature. Is also worth noting that the vast majority of the custom tuning/FW is based on J for that reason. I've tried a good number of regions and always come back to J.

The custom tuning is now a big subject with over 50 variations provided by multiple creators, combined with the 16 different regions one could easily spend more time exploring than actually listening Switching to J is a safe bet as the region wont offend and many agree J & MX3 are the top choices, although what's in or on your ears is going to matter more. Beauty of the Sony DAP's is you can try differing regions, firmware & tuning without any penalty which is not to be underestimated

Q-6

Thanks for your replies above.

I was just about to ask how to download the Japanese Region firmware and remembered it is done via the rockbox tool. So that means that there is only one universal firmware, but depending on your region it unlocks that particular region firmware/tunings?

 

[515164]

Hi! I tried to install the firmware mod autum+ via my windows 10 PC. However, it does not work....

After setting the firmware version to 3.02 with firware version changer the software update tool appears on PC screen. I agree to the software terms and then I am requested to connect the target device via USB with the computer. After this is done, the message will not disappear, even the computer has recognised the walkman. But firmware installation will not start; I am always requested to connect to the computer. I tried with USB massstorage on and of but always same result.

What is wrong? Can you help me out please? Any ideas?

Thanks a lot in advance!

This means that you downloaded the wrong variant for your device.

Just try with all variants (EU, U or J) available in the folder.

So that means that there is only one universal firmware, but depending on your region it unlocks that particular region firmware/tunings?

Indeed.

 

[minzink]

This means that you downloaded the wrong variant for your device.

Just try with all variants (EU, U or J) available in the folder.



Indeed.

ok, thanks. I will try....