SONY NW-WM1Z / WM1A
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May 9, 2020 at 12:22 PM Post #37,261 of 45,723
Hi guys, I'm wondering if there is anything that converts 1a/1z signal to the optical output, I don't see that the sony cradle has it

I dont see this happening, hardware isnt built to output optical nor coax.
The only way is usb to use external dac.
Or amp via se or balanced.
 
May 9, 2020 at 12:30 PM Post #37,262 of 45,723
Up to you, of course, but removing the cap is very simple and risk free.

You only have to download this program (click), and do the following commands in CMD:

Code:
scsitool-nwz-v25.exe G: dest_tool get

This is in order to get the current destination/region for your device, just in case you want to keep using that one. G: is the drive letter for the internal storage of your player, visible after you enable the mass storage mode.

Afterwards, you just do:

Code:
scsitool-nwz-v25.exe G: dest_tool set REGION 0

"REGION" will be the region of your choice (or the one that you got with the "get" command above) and 0 means that the volume cap setting will be deactivated. After this, just restart the player.

J region is considered to be the most balanced of all. @Mindstorms has a chart made with the characteristics of all regions if you're interested.

For example, to use the J region, you would do this:

Code:
scsitool-nwz-v25.exe G: dest_tool set J 0

OK, I'm really crap with Windows, this is the result of the get:

Model: NW-WM1Z
Series: NW-WM1 Series
Destination: CEW2 (103)
Sound pressure: 0 (off)

Do I need to change the region? Doesn't the '0' already mean it's off?

I don't want to do something stoopid and brick it...
 
May 9, 2020 at 12:36 PM Post #37,263 of 45,723
OK, I'm really crap with Windows, this is the result of the get:

Model: NW-WM1Z
Series: NW-WM1 Series
Destination: CEW2 (103)
Sound pressure: 0 (off)

Do I need to change the region? Doesn't the '0' already mean it's off?

I don't want to do something stoopid and brick it...

There's no risk of bricking the device, no worries.

Yes, 0 would mean that the volume cap is not active. Also, your region is CEW2, which means that this is an European device, if you ever decide to try out any tuning mod.

If you go to Settings => Output Settings can you see "High Gain Output"?
 
May 9, 2020 at 12:40 PM Post #37,264 of 45,723
There's no risk of bricking the device, no worries.

Yes, 0 would mean that the volume cap is not active. Also, your region is CEW2, which means that this is an European device, if you ever decide to try out any tuning mod.

If you go to Settings => Output Settings can you see "High Gain Output"?

No, that's the thing, I don't have this option. Yesterday when I turned the volume up for the first time it beeped and warned me, but let me carry on, then today while playing for burn in, it appeared to have paused with a volume warning message (I wasn't listening at the time).

Maybe the region needs to be changed away from Europe to get the high gain?
 
May 9, 2020 at 12:47 PM Post #37,266 of 45,723
Yes, that's why I was asking. J region has the option, and also CA (Canada), CN (China), E (Asia/Australia/NZ/Tourist version) and E2 should have it, at least.

Some other regions may have it as well, but I have no idea about that.

Ah OK, apologies, I probably didn't read your initial post properly.

What's the benefit of using region J as opposed to CA, for instance? I'm a native English speaker, so don't need other languages.
 
May 9, 2020 at 12:50 PM Post #37,267 of 45,723
Yes, that's why I was asking. J region has the option, and also CA (Canada), CN (China), E (Asia/Australia/NZ/Tourist version) and E2 should have it, at least.

Some other regions may have it as well, but I have no idea about that.
The EU region is what has the volume lock implemented. Change the region to anything other than CEW to remove the volume lock.
See the table below for more info.

1589043016186.png
 
May 9, 2020 at 12:50 PM Post #37,268 of 45,723
Ah OK, apologies, I probably didn't read your initial post properly.

What's the benefit of using region J as opposed to CA, for instance? I'm a native English speaker, so don't need other languages.

@Mindstorms made a chart highlighting how all the regions sound like.

J region is the most balanced and good for listening to for longer periods of time, as the highs are just slightly recessed. CA should have a bit more piercing highs in comparison, for example.

Just so you won't forget, after changing the region, you won't have to reset the settings as the tool will guide you. Just restarting the player will do.
 
May 9, 2020 at 12:59 PM Post #37,269 of 45,723
Thanks to you both!

I find it a bit odd that Sony change the EQ of the player for different regions!

If I choose J won't the player then be in Japanese? Looks like E is a good bet, but maybe the sound profile isn't a "pleasant" as the J...

Apologies for all these questions, if there's a website/user guide, feel free to just point me there.

Thank you for your help and patience!
 
May 9, 2020 at 1:02 PM Post #37,270 of 45,723
Thanks to you both!

I find it a bit odd that Sony change the EQ of the player for different regions!

If I choose J won't the player then be in Japanese? Looks like E is a good bet, but maybe the sound profile isn't a "pleasant" as the J...

Apologies for all these questions, if there's a website/user guide, feel free to just point me there.

Thank you for your help and patience!

No worries for the questions. If you'll change to J, for example, you won't be able to choose another language, but English will stay if you had it before changing the region to J.
 
May 9, 2020 at 1:10 PM Post #37,271 of 45,723
No worries for the questions. If you'll change to J, for example, you won't be able to choose another language, but English will stay if you had it before changing the region to J.

Indeed it did. I tried with J and now have high-gain enabled. Not needed for 99% of what I've heard so far, but the occasional track has been a bit too quiet - those 300ohm HD600's are demanding buggers! Will be easier when I get the Z1R's (due Friday, they say...)

Thanks again for you help :relieved:
 
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May 9, 2020 at 1:12 PM Post #37,272 of 45,723
Indeed it didn't I tried for J and now have high-gain enabled. Not needed for 99% of what I've heard so far, but the occasional track has been a bit too quiet - those 300ohm HD600's are demanding buggers! Will be easier when I get the Z1R's (due Friday, they say...)

Thanks again for you help :relieved:

Yes, it can be useful especially for some DSD tracks :)
 
May 9, 2020 at 1:24 PM Post #37,273 of 45,723
Indeed it didn't I tried for J and now have high-gain enabled. Not needed for 99% of what I've heard so far, but the occasional track has been a bit too quiet - those 300ohm HD600's are demanding buggers! Will be easier when I get the Z1R's (due Friday, they say...)

Thanks again for you help :relieved:

Even if single ended can give you enough volume balanced with the more power should drive them better with more control
 
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May 9, 2020 at 1:41 PM Post #37,274 of 45,723
Lol what coincidence! I was finding the jupiter 3.01 a bit harsh on the treble lately and was looking for a smoother alternative without sacrificing the resolution. Earlier i was fiddling around with your new fw and all it took was one try and poof ive been loving it ever since! Currently at wm1az rev B on MX3 since i read that @Mindstorms liked the pairing. Its not as wide as the jupiter 3.01 coupled with E2 but man that silky smooth treble and the tasteful bass! (Im pretty particular with the bass since my daily iem are bass cannons and can be very sibilant with the wrong combo). Thanks for the rec man (and sorry i only saw this now lol).
If you need wider go U I can confirm its wider also, if you want you can go to your beloved 3.01 but U you may be amazed...
 
May 9, 2020 at 1:43 PM Post #37,275 of 45,723
I believe you have misinterpreted the information on charge voltage. It is referring to the voltage of the battery at the end of the charge cycle, and not the charge voltage during the charge.
A li-ion battery is charged to a maximum voltage, as determined by the charger design/specs.
Some chargers will charge a li-ion battery up to 4.20 volts (or higher) at full charge. Other chargers will charge a battery to 4.15 (for example), or less. The result will be less battery capacity, but is kinder to the battery. The people who want maximum battery capacity for their application, make sure to get battery chargers that will charge a battery up to 4.20 volts or higher.
For devices like a DAP, Phone, etc., the full charge voltage is determined by the charge circuit built into the DAP/Phone. It is programmed as to what the max charge voltage will be. When you set battery saver ON in the Sony DAP settings, this tells the charge circuit to charge up to 4.10 voltage only, and stop. This is effectively 90% of the battery capacity.
For full capacity charging, the charger would charge the battery up to the full capacity 4.20 volts.

An external charger that shows charge voltage during charging is illustrative of what happens during charging. An example is the Nitecore SC4 battery charger for li-ion batteries for flashlights, e-cigs, etc. It shows you the voltage of the battery when inserted, which is typically 3.xx Volt. As it charges up, the voltage will increase, until at the end of the charge cycle, it shows 4.20 Volt, and the charger shows the battery is fully charged, and stops charging.


********************************************************************
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

Most Li-ions charge to 4.20V/cell, and every reduction in peak charge voltage of 0.10V/cell is said to double the cycle life. For example, a lithium-ion cell charged to 4.20V/cell typically delivers 300–500 cycles. If charged to only 4.10V/cell, the life can be prolonged to 600–1,000 cycles; 4.0V/cell should deliver 1,200–2,000 and 3.90V/cell should provide 2,400–4,000 cycles.

On the negative side, a lower peak charge voltage reduces the capacity the battery stores. As a simple guideline, every 70mV reduction in charge voltage lowers the overall capacity by 10 percent. Applying the peak charge voltage on a subsequent charge will restore the full capacity.

In terms of longevity, the optimal charge voltage is 3.92V/cell. Battery experts believe that this threshold eliminates all voltage-related stresses; going lower may not gain further benefits but induce other symptoms. (See BU-808b: What causes Li-ion to die?) Table 4 summarizes the capacity as a function of charge levels. (All values are estimated; Energy Cells with higher voltage thresholds may deviate.)


Charge level *(V/cell)​
Discharge cycles
Available stored energy **
Table 4: Discharge cycles and capacity as a function of charge voltage limit. Every 0.10V drop below 4.20V/cell doubles the cycle but holds less capacity. Raising the voltage above 4.20V/cell would shorten the life. The readings reflect regular Li-ion charging to 4.20V/cell.
Guideline: Every 70mV drop in charge voltage lowers the usable capacity by about 10%.

Note: Partial charging negates the benefit of Li-ion in terms of high specific energy.

* Similar life cycles apply for batteries with different voltage levels on full charge.

** Based on a new battery with 100% capacity when charged to the full voltage.
[4.30][150–250][110–115%]
4.25200–350105–110%
4.20300–500100%
4.15400–70090–95%
4.10600–1,00085–90%
4.05850–1,50080–85%
4.001,200–2,00070–75%
3.902,400–4,00060–65%
3.80See note35–40%
3.70See note30% and less


General recommendations as to which charger is good to use, is to use a high quality, high output charger. The higher the charger capacity, the better, as a high output charger is engineered with higher capacity and quality parts, and have lots of reserve capacity, and thus will not overheat and break down, which can, in worse case, send damaging high voltages or noise to the device. (All modern chargers use switching power supplies, which generate very high voltages internally.)

One test for charge capacity/reserve is to check the heat of a charger while it is charging a depleted device. If it is hot, then that is not good, and a sign that you are pushing it beyond it's design limits. I use, and recommend multi port chargers, by brands like Anker, Aukey, etc.. I use a 6 port Aukey charger rated at 10 Amps output maximum. It never gets hot, even if charging 3-4 device simultaneously.

Another general recommendation is to keep the DoD (Depth of Discharge) low, which you can read about in the article link. The lower the DoD, the higher the number of discharge cycles (i.e. longevity of battery). Lower DoD also results in lower charge current (Amps), and less heat buildup, which are both good for the battery.

Depth of
discharge
Discharge cycles
Table 2: Cycle life as a function of
depth of discharge.*
A partial discharge reduces stress and prolongs battery life, so does a partial charge. Elevated temperature and high currents also affect cycle life.

Note: 100% DoD is a full cycle; 10% is very brief. Cycling in mid-state-of-charge would have best longevity.
NMCLiPO4
100% DoD~300~600
80% DoD~400~900
60% DoD~600~1,500
40% DoD~1,000~3,000
20% DoD~2,000~9,000
10% DoD~6,000~15,000
So will my Ipad 10V charger work better than my iphone?
 
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