[NickleCo]

I would give a try to WM1Az, you can find a link in my signature.

Lol what coincidence! I was finding the jupiter 3.01 a bit harsh on the treble lately and was looking for a smoother alternative without sacrificing the resolution. Earlier i was fiddling around with your new fw and all it took was one try and poof ive been loving it ever since! Currently at wm1az rev B on MX3 since i read that @Mindstorms liked the pairing. Its not as wide as the jupiter 3.01 coupled with E2 but man that silky smooth treble and the tasteful bass! (Im pretty particular with the bass since my daily iem are bass cannons and can be very sibilant with the wrong combo). Thanks for the rec man (and sorry i only saw this now lol).

 

[Redcarmoose]

No idea as I don't have anything SONOS.

When I do stream music I do it through the receiver Sony STR-DN1070 for 5.1 albums, which streams file unadulterated. Only problem with this is that neither the STR-DN1070 or my BD player, the UHP-H1 stream gapless - which is really pathetic IMO and quite an issue with the type of music I listen to (mostly progressive rock and prog-metal, which has lots of tracks flowing into one-another).

I often think about folks experiencing non-gapless playback, as so much of what I listen too has songs connected.

 

[ttt123]

Hi guys!
Just some thoughts on battery life.. (Lithium ion)

I think Sony puts some grills in our ocd heads by stating something about 500 cycles in the manual, I think they have to do that to cover their butts for warranty issues.
The battery should last a lot longer than that if we learn how to take care of it.. (10-15% degradation over time is normal behaviour)

Enemy number one is heat, and then high charging voltages or charging it to 100% and leave unused for extended periods of time or let it drain to 0%.
So keep the player out of direct sunlight, charge it with a 500mA charger and just "top it up"every now and then to keep the charge between lets say 25-75% and save the full 100% charges for when you need it.

If you are really ocd you can use a USB extension cord between the charger and the Sony cable to lower the charging voltage.
With low charging voltage the capacity diminishes over time but is recovered again by a high voltage charge (try this if you are experiencing short battery time).

All batteries are "individuals" and the A-grades are sold at a premium to those who are willing to pay for it, think military, medical and other professionals who want the extra 2-5% of performance and reliability, we the "consumers" are lucky if we see the B-grades, most likely we get those C-grades with a couple of percent under the specs, D and E you will find at ebay and the likes for a "decent" price and in cheap OEM no-name products.

If you are really really ocd, put the player in the refrigerator while charging, and while you are waiting you can look through the yellow pages to see if there is a nearby psychologist who can see you... might be a good investment..

Lots of good info here:https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

I believe you have misinterpreted the information on charge voltage. It is referring to the voltage of the battery at the end of the charge cycle, and not the charge voltage during the charge.
A li-ion battery is charged to a maximum voltage, as determined by the charger design/specs.
Some chargers will charge a li-ion battery up to 4.20 volts (or higher) at full charge. Other chargers will charge a battery to 4.15 (for example), or less. The result will be less battery capacity, but is kinder to the battery. The people who want maximum battery capacity for their application, make sure to get battery chargers that will charge a battery up to 4.20 volts or higher.
For devices like a DAP, Phone, etc., the full charge voltage is determined by the charge circuit built into the DAP/Phone. It is programmed as to what the max charge voltage will be. When you set battery saver ON in the Sony DAP settings, this tells the charge circuit to charge up to 4.10 voltage only, and stop. This is effectively 90% of the battery capacity.
For full capacity charging, the charger would charge the battery up to the full capacity 4.20 volts.

An external charger that shows charge voltage during charging is illustrative of what happens during charging. An example is the Nitecore SC4 battery charger for li-ion batteries for flashlights, e-cigs, etc. It shows you the voltage of the battery when inserted, which is typically 3.xx Volt. As it charges up, the voltage will increase, until at the end of the charge cycle, it shows 4.20 Volt, and the charger shows the battery is fully charged, and stops charging.


********************************************************************
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

Most Li-ions charge to 4.20V/cell, and every reduction in peak charge voltage of 0.10V/cell is said to double the cycle life. For example, a lithium-ion cell charged to 4.20V/cell typically delivers 300–500 cycles. If charged to only 4.10V/cell, the life can be prolonged to 600–1,000 cycles; 4.0V/cell should deliver 1,200–2,000 and 3.90V/cell should provide 2,400–4,000 cycles.

On the negative side, a lower peak charge voltage reduces the capacity the battery stores. As a simple guideline, every 70mV reduction in charge voltage lowers the overall capacity by 10 percent. Applying the peak charge voltage on a subsequent charge will restore the full capacity.

In terms of longevity, the optimal charge voltage is 3.92V/cell. Battery experts believe that this threshold eliminates all voltage-related stresses; going lower may not gain further benefits but induce other symptoms. (See BU-808b: What causes Li-ion to die?) Table 4 summarizes the capacity as a function of charge levels. (All values are estimated; Energy Cells with higher voltage thresholds may deviate.)

Charge level *(V/cell)​	Discharge cycles​	Available stored energy **​	Table 4: Discharge cycles and capacity as a function of charge voltage limit. Every 0.10V drop below 4.20V/cell doubles the cycle but holds less capacity. Raising the voltage above 4.20V/cell would shorten the life. The readings reflect regular Li-ion charging to 4.20V/cell. Guideline: Every 70mV drop in charge voltage lowers the usable capacity by about 10%. Note: Partial charging negates the benefit of Li-ion in terms of high specific energy. * Similar life cycles apply for batteries with different voltage levels on full charge. ** Based on a new battery with 100% capacity when charged to the full voltage.
[4.30]	[150–250]	[110–115%]
4.25	200–350	105–110%
4.20	300–500	100%
4.15	400–700	90–95%
4.10	600–1,000	85–90%
4.05	850–1,500	80–85%
4.00	1,200–2,000	70–75%
3.90	2,400–4,000	60–65%
3.80	See note	35–40%
3.70	See note	30% and less

General recommendations as to which charger is good to use, is to use a high quality, high output charger. The higher the charger capacity, the better, as a high output charger is engineered with higher capacity and quality parts, and have lots of reserve capacity, and thus will not overheat and break down, which can, in worse case, send damaging high voltages or noise to the device. (All modern chargers use switching power supplies, which generate very high voltages internally.)

One test for charge capacity/reserve is to check the heat of a charger while it is charging a depleted device. If it is hot, then that is not good, and a sign that you are pushing it beyond it's design limits. I use, and recommend multi port chargers, by brands like Anker, Aukey, etc.. I use a 6 port Aukey charger rated at 10 Amps output maximum. It never gets hot, even if charging 3-4 device simultaneously.

Another general recommendation is to keep the DoD (Depth of Discharge) low, which you can read about in the article link. The lower the DoD, the higher the number of discharge cycles (i.e. longevity of battery). Lower DoD also results in lower charge current (Amps), and less heat buildup, which are both good for the battery.

Depth of discharge​	Discharge cycles​	Table 2: Cycle life as a function of depth of discharge.* A partial discharge reduces stress and prolongs battery life, so does a partial charge. Elevated temperature and high currents also affect cycle life. Note: 100% DoD is a full cycle; 10% is very brief. Cycling in mid-state-of-charge would have best longevity.
NMC	LiPO4
100% DoD	~300	~600
80% DoD	~400	~900
60% DoD	~600	~1,500
40% DoD	~1,000	~3,000
20% DoD	~2,000	~9,000
10% DoD	~6,000	~15,000

 

[TheBonkingFrog]

I often think about folks experiencing non-gapless playback, as so much of what I listen too has songs connected.

It's not just annoying, it renders an album unlistenable IMO.

It's the same with the media player in my Tesla, no gapless, either from Spotify or USB. I've complained many times about it over the years. Unacceptable!

 

[Ryokan]

I am pretty sure that any device being charged will just draw as much current as they need and only that. The amperage of the charger is basically how much current that charger can output - it's the current capacity of the charger.

If you would plug in a 1a device into a 2a charger, the device will only draw the 1a and that's it. Basically, it's the device that draws power from the charger, and not the charger that "pushes" current into the device.

If you would plug in a 2a device into a 1a charger, then the device will charge slower than expected, as the charger doesn't have the current capacity that the device is expecting.

But well, not providing the device with the current capacity that it usually requires and charging the battery more slowly could impact the battery life positively.

Edit: actually, you shouldn't try charging a 2a device with a 1a charger, as the device could overload the charger and cause some unwanted surprises to the charger.

And yet a higher rated charger charges a device quicker doesn't it? So I thought that means the battery will get hotter which isn't good for it.

 

[Waynesday]

ttt123 and morgenstern09 , You are right.. I misunderstood, I thought a smaller charger would generate less heat in the battery while charging but its is as you point out. a good charger should read the voltage in the battery and regulate the charge accordingly. Circuits in the player controls the charging..
sorry for any confusion i have caused.. it was a uneducated assumption and some attempts at being funny... I will edit the post..

From battery university:
Simple Guidelines to Prolong Lithium-ion Batteries

• Do not discharge Li-ion too low; charge more often. A random or partial charge is fine. Li-ion does not need to be fully full charged as with lead acid.
• Heat the battery to room temperature before charging. Do not charge below freezing.
• Limit the time the battery resides at 4.2V/cell (full charge), especially when warm.
• Moderate the charge current to between 0.5C and 0.8C for cobalt-blended lithium-ion. Avoid ultra-fast charging and harsh loading.
• When possible, lower the charge voltage limit to prolong battery life.
• Keep the battery cool. Move it away from heat-generating environments. Avoid hot cars and windowsills that are exposed to the sun.
• It is not necessary to unplug the laptop from the power grid when not in use. The charger stops charging when the battery is fully charged.
• When the SoC fuel gauge becomes inaccurate, calibrate smart batteries by applying a deliberate full discharge and charge.
• Add some charge before a long storage. The charge level is not as critical as cool storage.

"Caution also applies when purchasing aftermarket chargers. Some low-end units may not terminate the battery correctly and rely on the battery’s internal protection circuit to terminate the charge when the battery is full. Redundancy in charging is important as the protection circuit of a bona fide battery can be damaged."

 

[515164]

a good charger should read the voltage in the battery and regulate the charge accordingly

Nope, actually the device will just draw as much as it needs. If the device is rated for 2A, it will draw 2A from a 5A charger, for example. Again, it's the device which is drawing current from the charger, and it's not the charger "pushing" current into the device.

And yet a higher rated charger charges a device quicker doesn't it?

Yes, but it's limited by how much the device will draw from the charger, depending on how it was created. If it's rated for 5V 2A, it will draw only 2A from a 5A charger, for example.

So I thought that means the battery will get hotter which isn't good for it.

Yes, it can heat up a bit when the device is charging at its full capacity, especially when talking about higher voltages/amperages.

However, using a charger with a lower current capacity (lower amperage) can result in the overload of the charger, as the device will try to draw the full 2A from a 1A charger, for example.

For WM1A/Z I can only find 5V, and that it's USB 2.0 compliant, which should mean 500ma. So if you would connect it to a charger with current capacity of 2A, the player will draw from the charger only the 500ma it was made to draw - assuming it's made to draw a maximum of 500ma (this is what USB 2.0 compliant should mean).

 

[ttt123]

Edit: accidental post

 

[gearofwar]

Hi guys, I'm wondering if there is anything that converts 1a/1z signal to the optical output, I don't see that the sony cradle has it

 

[ttt123]

For WM1A/Z I can only find 5V, and that it's USB 2.0 compliant, which should mean 500ma. So if you would connect it to a charger with current capacity of 2A, the player will draw from the charger only the 500ma it was made to draw.

The USB 2.0 spec is meaningful mainly for data transfer protocol compliance. The spec does specify the output power of a single USB port is limited to 500ma, and PCs/(laptops) usually comply to this, as they want to lengthen battery life. However, this 500ma max limit is not followed for chargers, or any manufacturer who does not have the need to comply. i.e. There is no necessity to conserve power.

I have checked my WM1Z on a edit: Charger Doctor, which is a passthru dongle which plugs into the charger, and the Sony charge cable plugs into the dongle. It has a readout of the voltage and current passing through the dongle. The WM1x charge circuit maxes out at around 700-800 ma, for a normal partial discharged device charge. (I have not checked for a fully discharged WM1Z, whether the charge current may be higher than 700-800ma.)

 

[515164]

The WM1x charge circuit maxes out at around 700-800 ma, for a normal partial discharged device charge. (I have not checked for a fully discharged WM1Z, whether the charge current may be higher than 700-800ma.)

Nice! So yep, it won't draw more than aprox. these values, even if the charger has the capacity to output more current.

 

[Pillsburydough]

Apologies for being slightly off topic. I have my settings set so that battery is charged to 90% max, however it still indicates FULL when I charge it, is that normal guys?

 

[ttt123]

Apologies for being slightly off topic. I have my settings set so that battery is charged to 90% max, however it still indicates FULL when I charge it, is that normal guys?

Yes, it is 100% of the 90% max. Meaning it is 100% full at 90%. Set battery save off, and FULL will mean 100% of 100%

 

[Pillsburydough]

Yes, it is 100% of the 90% max. Meaning it is 100% full at 90%. Set battery save off, and FULL will mean 100% of 100%

That's good to know, thanks

 

[Waynesday]

Hi again, sorry for all the confusion I caused. I'll just leave this here and not bring my own "interpretations" of it hehe..
But I have learned a lot today so thank you for that @ttt123 and @morgenstern09 you rock!

https://www.androidauthority.com/maximize-battery-life-882395/