These numbers are now different. Shops are giving deep discounts on Sony products now.
1Z = $2700 (-$500)
Z1R = $1700 (-$500)
Strangely, TA price has not changed yet.
Maybe it's time to get the trio.
How much of a difference would you say there is between the Z1R going into the 1Z vs. the TA?
I own both however have not experimented enough to come to a conclusion.
How are you feeding your TA - with the 1Z? Or with something else?
Redcarmoose
Thank you for your detailed observations. My understanding from multiple posts on this thread is that you will experience a substantial upgrade when using either the:
Dock with upgraded USB cable
OR
1Z > dongle > upgraded usb cable
I am currently feeding the TA with a Sonore Sonicorbiter (lower priced version of the MicroRendu) connected with a generic USB cable. The Sonicorbiter acts as a ROON endpoint. Cable is a Kimberly Axios imho a significant upgrade over stock. In this configuration quick playing around yields an improvement over simply connected to the 1Z however I am not really sure exactly how much - 10-15%?
I am reticent to keep throwing money at it. A dock and usb cable will add cost - and I don’t want to use the 1Z as a transport. I like the ability to access my ENTIRE music collection via the Sonore Sonicorbiter as a ROON endpoint. To improve upon that would require stepping up to a Sonore MicroRendu and power supply ie another $1k. I do not want to go there as instead I would prefer throwing that money in another direction.
I am at a bit of indecision with the TA - also compounded by the fact that I have an UBER source in my two channel system with a MOON headphone amp which allows me to access both that digital source and vinyl. There the issue becomes imho the fact that I feel the Z1R sounds better running balanced instead of single ended. I got a cheap 4.4 > XLR dongle from Amazon however I feel like that dongle is holding things back. A proper Axios dongle from Kimber is most likely around $300. I also wonder about the synergy of the Z1R with the MOON vs something like a Headamp GSX MK2
Yes, it’s all about seeking out the sound you want. For me the mixture of TA with Z1R was rather surprising as in many ways it was far from standard audiophile flatness. The bass bump, the ever so slight drop in male vocals. In many circles this would be the stuff of outrage, though here we have a giant electronics conglomerate go ahead and make the tone be the signature sound, no less.
But it sounds like your finding ways to hear differences from the digital supply. I’m funny in that I believe CDs sound best and am actually waiting a while to test that. My best sounding digital is an actual CD spinning and going coaxial to a DAC. I’m of the belief that computer USB adds jitter or some kind of timing or interference issue. So maybe the 1Z runs a little quieter, and your Sonore bypasses the computer interference issues?
And we arrive at the perception point. The point where if you tell your brain it’s better then perception tells you it in-fact IS better. That’s my issue with CD is that I believe it’s better so it sounds better.
But using a 1Z or 1A is in-fact a great transport. I still need to get a remote. No Windows bells going off in the middle of your favorite song, no updates going off randomly. Plus you have the ability to find the files really fast. My first attraction to the Signature Series was the lack of computer used in the play-back loop! I still need to rip my collection with MediaGo to some 400GB cards. And again, having files on external cards makes joining them to the 1A or 1Z an ease. The 1A may sound better with the Z1R as it’s aluminum sounding, where the 1Z is copper sounding?
Yes, it’s all about seeking out the sound you want. For me the mixture of TA with Z1R was rather surprising as in many ways it was far from standard audiophile flatness. The bass bump, the ever so slight drop in male vocals. In many circles this would be the stuff of outrage, though here we have a giant electronics conglomerate go ahead and make the tone be the signature sound, no less.
But it sounds like your finding ways to hear differences from the digital supply. I’m funny in that I believe CDs sound best and am actually waiting a while to test that. I’m actually of the belief that computer USB adds jitter or some kind of timing or interference issue. So maybe the 1Z runs a little quieter, and your Sonore bypasses the computer interference issues?
And we arrive at the perception point. The point where if you tell your brain it’s better then perception tells you it in-fact IS better. That’s my issue with CD is that I believe it’s better so it sounds better.
But using a 1Z or 1A is in-fact a great transport. I still need to get a remote. No Windows bells going off in the middle of your favorite song, no updates going off randomly. Plus you have the ability to find the files really fast. I still need to rip my collection with MediaGo to some 400GB cards. And again, having files on external cards makes joining them to the 1A or 1Z an ease. The 1A may sound better with the Z1R as it’s aluminum sounding, where the 1Z is copper sounding?
Good point, though I fail to hear a difference? Some CDs I'm really close with sounded absolutely perfect from Media Go? Again it's maybe perception, if you think it's there, your mind says "it's there".
Good point, though I fail to hear a difference? Some CDs I'm really close with sounded absolutely perfect from Media Go? Again it's maybe perception, if you think it's there, your mind says "it's there".
Well i started ripping with MediaGo back in 2012 and soon discovered some rips had error, stuttering, clicks, static etc. and i switched to secure ripping, error free, is worth the investment despite some rips take 20 minutes to complete but you get bit-perfect and error-free copies pf ypur media
Well i started ripping with MediaGo back in 2012 and soon discovered some rips had error, stuttering, clicks, static etc. and i switched to secure ripping, error free, is worth the investment despite some rips take 20 minutes to complete but you get bit-perfect and error-free copies pf ypur media
Never found a single skip with MediaGo though there are a multitude of issues on the other hand, dealing with how it works in general. I just fill cards, rarely using it to fill up device memory.
And I would like to use my IEM with sources other than my WM1A, so I'd also need a connector. What kind of a connector do I need to be able to plug my balanced cable with 4.4mm termination to 3.5mm sockets?
Since I use both SP1000Cu (2.5mm) and WM1Z (4.4mm), my cables are terminated to 2.5mm. I use Effect Audio and Brise Audio adaptor for 4.4mm. I don’t hear any degradation in sq.
Well i started ripping with MediaGo back in 2012 and soon discovered some rips had error, stuttering, clicks, static etc. and i switched to secure ripping, error free, is worth the investment despite some rips take 20 minutes to complete but you get bit-perfect and error-free copies pf ypur media
If it's the case, that means the CDs were damaged to the point that some bits were lost. You can't "correct" errors when the disc is deeply scratched. And if the CD and the player are in good state, there should never be any error during extraction because you're extracting simple 1/0 data, not some analog signal.
Most softwares (including free ones like the antique but efficient CDex) will show you when some crap happened during extraction.
If the software doesn't, yes people should look for one that does at least report errors so you know that your image isn't bit-perfect.
If it's the case, that means the CDs were damaged to the point that some bits were lost. You can't "correct" errors when the disc is deeply scratched. And if the CD and the player are in good state, there should never be any error during extraction because you're extracting simple 1/0 data, not some analog signal.
Most softwares (including free ones like the antique but efficient CDex) will show you when some crap happened during extraction.
If the software doesn't, yes people should look for one that does at least report errors so you know that your image isn't bit-perfect.
They were not scratched but the drive couldn't handle certain Wraner classic CDs well using media Go. By using dbpowerAmp CD ripper it could correct the Offset and finally ripped fine with no skips, also a bach CD (all my CD are in good state, never scratched)
Since I use both SP1000Cu (2.5mm) and WM1Z (4.4mm), my cables are terminated to 2.5mm. I use Effect Audio and Brise Audio adaptor for 4.4mm. I don’t hear any degradation in sq.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
