Sony MDR-R10 Owner's Club
Apr 27, 2016 at 9:46 AM Post #634 of 1,173
  Strange as the driver number for R10 & CD3000 are same. So it might be related to damping material used inside R10 for variations in bass.



Just curious.  Where did you find that info?

I only ask because I specifically recall from years ago, 2008-2009ish, someone did a lot of leg work digging in to this to determine if they indeed used the same driver and the conclusion was that it was not the same.  I'm not sure how far back the search archive goes on Head-Fi nowadays, but I know this discussion took place prior to the website going through it's big format/layout change a couple years back.  I'm sure Jude archived everything from prior to the changeover but I'm not positive how to go about digging up that thread.
 
Apr 27, 2016 at 9:57 AM Post #635 of 1,173
I remember about 2008-ish looking at website with replacement drivers for the CD3000 and R10. The CD3000 drivers were about $270 and the R10 drivers were about $900, so I'm pretty sure they are different. I think they were all out of stock even then.
 
Apr 27, 2016 at 1:04 PM Post #637 of 1,173
For R10 there were three drivers




On partstore same driver was listed for another models.


Not true. There were 4. The service manual got updated at or around the year 2000 to include driver number 4. I have both service manuals. Your service manual is the original 1989 version.
 
Apr 27, 2016 at 5:43 PM Post #638 of 1,173
I was just wondering because of all the "bass light" and "bass heavy" talk in the thread. From what I gathered, "bass heavy" R10's are approximately serial #'s 1000 and up? Thanks for the information guys.

I don't think that is the case.  I have had several R10s in the past and the SN # 284 was clearly a bass light while my SN# 356 & 358 were bass heavy which sound no different than SN #996.  I think anything lower than SN#1000 can either be bass light or heavy while anything above SN#1000 (somewhere) are all bass heavy.  I wish I know why there were 3 driver numbers between 1989 and 2000 and just a Driver No. 4 toward the end of the production.
 
 Are there bass light and bass heavy CD3000 ?

 
 
 Strange as the driver number for R10 & CD3000 are same. So it might be related to damping material used inside R10 for variations in bass.

 
Nope they do not use the same part number even.
 
 

Just curious.  Where did you find that info?

I only ask because I specifically recall from years ago, 2008-2009ish, someone did a lot of leg work digging in to this to determine if they indeed used the same driver and the conclusion was that it was not the same.  I'm not sure how far back the search archive goes on Head-Fi nowadays, but I know this discussion took place prior to the website going through it's big format/layout change a couple years back.  I'm sure Jude archived everything from prior to the changeover but I'm not positive how to go about digging up that thread.

 
 
 I remember about 2008-ish looking at website with replacement drivers for the CD3000 and R10. The CD3000 drivers were about $270 and the R10 drivers were about $900, so I'm pretty sure they are different. I think they were all out of stock even then.

Yes, I can confirm this as well.  I bought my replacement driver from Audiocube for $1000 back in 2005-2006 or so.  The CD3000 drivers were around $300 a pair.
 
May 15, 2016 at 12:46 PM Post #640 of 1,173
  Just like you, I'm a fan of Doug's amps.  My DSHA-0 was a prototype of the "1" but then I sent it in for an upgrade.... so it is now as good or if not better than the soon-to-be-out DSHA-2.  The thing with the R10 is that it doesn't need as much power as the HD800 or HEK so it will sound really good out of something like the L2 and DSHA-1.  However, I do agree that an additional power can contribute to more effortless sound reproduction as well as better sense of dynamic.  Still the SDS-XLR is ever so glorious at presenting the size of the soundstage as well as providing a much needed bass slam to the R10.  I'm a lover of the HD800 too and it sounds marvelously good out of Doug's amps and the SDS-XLR as well.  The SDS-XLR was retailed around 8.5K back during the height of Single Power.  I got luck out a big time a few years back and bought it for less than the 3K.  Mine also is the first ever SDS-XLR, built at the time when Mikhail was out making a name for himself and completely sane.
 
I'm afraid the DIY T2 with either the SR009 or HE90 will place first in most competition.  That amp is just insanely great and really has no know weakness.  I also own the KGSSHV Carbon with a golden reference psu....but not Mjolnir's model and it is still not quite up there in some ways to the BHSE so let alone the T2.  I never had a pleasure to try out Pete's amps but I'm confident that his stuff are legendary as well.  The R10 is some ways will always be superior to other phones due to its tone and sense of soundstage and warmth.  Of course, if will always fall a little short with its bass response.

 
You have listened to too many nice amps not to have a pete amp under your belt. It is not the Pinnacle or Teton but I would like to send you my peak/volcano to demo for nothing. 
 
I finally got around to reading that 130 pg. thread on SP. Just wow beyond wow. While I do think you got the best deal financially speaking from SP I really feel like you got the worst end of the deal as far as going after someone's reputation. To me he really used you just as bad as some of the people that were out 5 figures.
 
May 17, 2016 at 3:21 AM Post #641 of 1,173
Not sure if you guys have noticed the recent outpour of R10 classifieds on the Internet. 
I find it very amusing that people actually consider the R10 be a serious investment. The reason I say that is because I bought my R10 from the nicest person I have talked to in a very long time, he has three R10s and never once was I able to detect a hint of him trying to make a significant profit off me, this was during the time the 14K Ebay Auction was going on which is saying a lot. 

I think it's time people appreciate the R10 for what it is and stop being opportunistic by trying to cash-in at every chance they can seize, I don't think profits of $5000 or even $10000 will help someone in a real world situation, chances are if can buy an R10, you shouldn't have money issues especially when we are just talking 5-10 Grand. There are just more refined ways of making money. 

I personally don't sell Headphones for a profit, I'd rather pass it on to someone who appreciates it, I have the oldest documented Headphone in Headphone history, a Serial Number - 40, Beyer DT48 which was gifted to me by the previous owner, you just can't put a price on something like that, just like the R10 which unfortunately has a price but I think that can be changed if people stop trying to be opportunistic. 
 
May 17, 2016 at 3:36 AM Post #642 of 1,173
Fully agree with you MrTechAgent. I'm not owner of R10, but I would like to be. I put together some amount of money and I'm trying to buy one, but people are crazy these day about prices of R10. Everybody is trying to make big profit because of 14K auction on eBay. I'm not collector of things or headphones as well as not investor, I'm audiophile. I own LCD-3 and HD800 and I consider R10 as improvement and step further for me as I'm not big fan of electrostatic headphones and something like old Orpheus is unreachable for me now. 
 
I'm happy that you as owner of R10 mentioned this current situation.Hopefully this bubble will burst 
smily_headphones1.gif

 
May 17, 2016 at 3:43 AM Post #643 of 1,173
And one more thing, It's very sad that somebody will buy R10 just for vision of profit put them to cabinet or closet and not actually use them. Somebody else could have same goosebumps as I currently have when I'm writing this and listening Celine Dion song on my LCD-3.
 
May 17, 2016 at 4:05 AM Post #645 of 1,173
  I think it will stop if Sony can come up with similar headphone. 10-14k with high risk that drivers may fail is not good investment.

Certainly not.  Unless you can find one with a new set of drivers installed.  One of my pair has a new drivers installed on them.  Yes, I would strongly advice folks to ask questions and try to get most information as you can from the potential seller before go through with the purchase.  The seller should also be reputable with good standing feedback.    
 

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