[Slater]

Is there any re-cable guide or how-to ?

No real guide needed.

You stick a wooden toothpick into the vent hole on the top of the shell, and pop the shells apart. Then you desolder the stock wire from the driver. Then you resolder the new wire to the driver, and snap the shells back together. No glue needed. There is a black mark on the stock driver to indicate the ground terminal.

The hardest part is making sure you don’t overheat the driver and destroy it. You should only touch the solder pad with the soldering iron for a fraction of a second at most. Anything over 1.0 second will cause damage.

Also, if you buy thin enough wire it will work with the stock wire strain reliefs. It’s only when you go with thicker or braided wire that you have to get creative with the wire strain relief. I don’t recommend going thicker though, as if you don’t know what you’re doing you will drastically change the sound tuning. You want a wire that fits tight with the stock wire strain relief, so it doesn’t turn the strain relief into an additional bass vent.

 

[weedophile]

Havent been using the MH755 for awhile and my **** PT15 died on me after i tried to remove the MMCX :C So i just went home to tweak the foam inside the MH755 (previously the right driver was softer and i suspected the foam to be blocking the driver, and i was right xD) to bring it to work tomorrow.

Nonetheless, i tried the Slater's Reverse Eartips Mod (SREM) on the MH755 and they sound fantastic! I was having issues with the fit of the MH755 previous and found what works for me is the wide bore large tips, which was too big and i had to use some blue tack to keep the eartip from falling off. With the SREM, they hold onto the nozzle nicely and tightly, and the fit is pretty perfect

 

[HungryPanda]

found this online if you want to get adventurous

 

[Slater]

found this online if you want to get adventurous

That’s not for the faint of heart. I suggest recabling first, especially for people with minimal modding experience

Besides mmcx connectors being incredibly challenging to solder to, step 10 is where the problem will arise the 1st time you try to remove the mmcx cable lol

 

[Antenne]

"
Besides mmcx connectors being incredibly challenging to solder to, step 10 is where the problem will arise the 1st time you try to remove the mmcx cable lol

"
Therefore I've used a different type of mmcx connector with a small edge and pushed it from inside out. The edge prevents the socket from being pulled out. (See my pics in this thread)

 

[Barusu Lamperouge]

Would be helpful if anyone who has purchased from the below sellers can confirm if they sell genuine ones -

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/283470015701

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/303156834713

Would really appreciate the help as there are very few sellers who ship to my country and it is exactly not so cheap for me to experiment with fakes as well. Thanks in advance.

 

[Slater]

"
Besides mmcx connectors being incredibly challenging to solder to, step 10 is where the problem will arise the 1st time you try to remove the mmcx cable lol

"
Therefore I've used a different type of mmcx connector with a small edge and pushed it from inside out. The edge prevents the socket from being pulled out. (See my pics in this thread)

I tried those, and they were effective at preventing the mmcx socket from ripping out when the mmcx cable was removed. However, they failed after pushing the cable in after (I think) 3 times.

I’m glad they worked for you though!

The trick with any of these removable jacks, is they have to be strong enough to support being pushed in and being pulled out. Some mmcx designs are good for 1 but not the other.

The threaded jacks I now use are strong enough, but they’re not compatible with most mmcx cables (which kinda defeats the purpose). It is simply not an ideal situation. That’s why recabling the MH755 is the safest and best option by far IMO.

Crinacle did a 2-pin jack on his. I’d love to find out how exactly he did it, because 2-pin is superior to mmcx.

 

[Antenne]

I've fixed them with the glue gun (hot melt glue). No problem then. However, you have to hit the right amount of glue. After all, corrections are possible (with the hot air gun or the soldering iron)

 

[Slater]

I've fixed them with the glue gun (hot melt glue). No problem then. However, you have to hit the right amount of glue. After all, corrections are possible (with the hot air gun or the soldering iron)

That’s cool. Glue or UV resin is one option for helping to bullet proof the jack.

While that does help reinforce the jack, one big downside to using glue/resin is it changes the internal volume of the shell behind the driver which then changes the sound tuning from stock.

The mmcx jack itself already uses a ton of room as it is, and adding a bunch of glue/resin almost entirely fills in the whole back half of the shell (definitely causing a sound change).

That may be ok with some people though. There is at least one HFer who specifically fills in the back part of his MH755 (to various levels), to purposefully change the tuning (and reduce the bass response).

Although IMO a more effective way to retune the bass is to tweak the bass vent on the shell.

Anyways, I still feel the easiest and safest way is to just recable the stock cable. It preserves the stock sound tuning, is easier/cheaper to do than removable jacks, and it is much more serviceable down the road (is to replace the cable when it goes bad). It’s also the lightest option, as the mmcx jacks combined with the mmcx plugs on the cable add a noticeable amount of weight which can actually work the earphones loose during listening sessions.

Another option would be to have a dangling female mmcx, similar to how the Superlux 668B has a short dongle hanging off. That would be fairly easy for a beginner that wanted a mmcx jack instead of a basic recable.

Many ways to ‘skin the cat’

 

[SiggyFraud]

found this online if you want to get adventurous

I'll be trying this myself in a few weeks, once my MH755s arrive, together with the MMCX connectors. So far I only did cable transplants on some Vidos, but I guess I'm feeling lucky. Hope that the two pairs of Sonys I've ordered will be enough for at least one succesfull operation.
BTW, I got mine here: https://ebay.to/315kkot. Based on the Seller's feedback and some info I found online, these are supposed to be 100% original.

 

[Slater]

I'll be trying this myself in a few weeks, once my MH755s arrive, together with the MMCX connectors. So far I only did cable transplants on some Vidos, but I guess I'm feeling lucky. Hope that the two pairs of Sonys I've ordered will be enough for at least one succesfull operation.
BTW, I got mine here: https://ebay.to/315kkot. Based on the Seller's feedback and some info I found online, these are supposed to be 100% original.

Nice.

Just double check the drivers as soon as you get them. Forget the tag, serial number, etc.

It only takes 2 seconds to check the drivers for fake or not, and if they’re fake you’ll be able to get it taken care of before you even waste your time modding them.

Besides, you have to pop them open to mod them anyways

 

[Veyska]

I got bored on eBay again oops. Heck if I know what I'm going to *do* with them (think my roommate has the stuff I'd need to recable if I get bored and adventuresome) but they do sound pretty dang good for the price and they pass my relatively new unofficial quick detail test just fine. (Specific 5-6 second long stretch in one of the songs on my main playlist, very faint almost ratcheting/clock-like sound in the background. Honestly that little snippet was a part, however small, of why I started shopping for a replacement for my HD558s because I hadn't even known that little background detail was *there* until the first time I listened to the song on I think it was the KZ ZSNs.)

 

[AudioNoob]

Would the KZ cables fit the strain relief if I cut them to use as recabling? If you have any other cable suggestions (with mic) I'm all ears.

 

[Slater]

Would the KZ cables fit the strain relief if I cut them to use as recabling? If you have any other cable suggestions (with mic) I'm all ears.

Yes, it’s a tight fit, but some KZ cables will fit. You have to trim the stock plug strain relief shorter.

Here’s one I recabled using the copper cable from the KZ BA10:

 

[AudioNoob]

Yes, it’s a tight fit, but some KZ cables will fit. You have to trim the stock plug strain relief shorter.

Here’s one I recabled using the copper cable from the KZ BA10:

Thanks that's good to know. Might pick up a pair when I'm back in Aug.