[Fitz]

You're getting the Hakko, and that's final

 

[Xakepa]

This is a good deal

 

[soloz2]

if you get it from HMC you get free shipping for orders over $100 so add some tips and maybe a spool of solder and you're all set

 

[SHLim]

Not sure about Weller but Hakko has a large number of tips option, including the flat tips for SMD component. Something that might come handy one day.
http://www.computronics.com.au/hakko/936/fp/

 

[Pars]

No one recommended a Metcal?

They are probably the best, but quite pricey (sometimes come up on Ebay though). I have the Hakko and would recommend it.

 

[ozshadow]

I have considered a station for some time, but quite frankly, the Hakko Dash is just plain nice. Maybe if I start doing things that require far more power, I'll go with a Hakko station. No deciding the brand for me.

 

[a1rocketpilot]

OK, so I didn't do it on Monday, but today I ordered the Hakko 936! Thanks to everyone for all of the recommendations! It should be here within another week or so, and I can't wait to play around with it!

Aditya

 

[Tomo]

Awww ...

What's this stuff about Hakko? I love my Weller WCPT. I use it with #7 tips which give me around 700F. No need to go readjust your temperature control. (You know you have to adjust when you swap tips once in a while, right?)

Metcal is much more sophisticated soldering iron which utilize feedback-control. This fascinating system detects the condition of the soldering surface and decide how much more power it needs automatically. Thus there is no need to check the tip temperature. So you can swap your tips frequently. ie change tips when you are soldering DACs or fat cables to RCA. I think this system is far more suited for future where 40-60 is banned. There are many types of non-lead solders available and meeting the temperature requirement is gonna be annoying. (Especially the temp monitor isn't exact anyway.)

Only problem for METCAL would be the cost to buy and maintain. Tips are somewhat expensive for intermittent users. The entire system should cost over 400.

Whatever the choice of irons, one common advice I got from most of these iron manufactures is that you gotta have a chisel tip. Suppose to have some flat surface to increase heat transfer, I think.

Tomo

P.S. I am accepting donation of a set of Metcal Soldering Station. Hehe.

 

[a1rocketpilot]

My Hakko came in today and it's awesome! I just soldered a spare opamp (NJC4556, $.25) to a spare protoboard just to test it out. So much better than the cheap Rat Shack iron. Much more comfortable, and I'm sure the temp control will come in handy soon enough. Now, I just have to work on my soldering skills some, maybe DIY a couple more CMoy's or something just to finesse the technique.

Don't mean to hijack my own thread, but what temp should I use for polystyrene caps? I know they melt very quickly and I don't want to nuke them when they get here.

Aditya

 

[ozshadow]

I would expect it depends on the solder you are using to an extent.

 

[a1rocketpilot]

I'm using Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder.

Aditya

 

[Voodoochile]

Funny how it only seems expensive until you try it.

Then it's more like "wow, I can't believe I wasted so much time on a junk iron".

Of course any iron with enough wattage and a proper iron clad tip will provide good service, unlike a $10 piece with an unclad copper rod for a tip. But after the bare essentials are met, things like ergonomics start to matter.

Most people new to soldering base their opinion on trying to solder to the unplated radioshack proto board (usually not very clean), with the accompanying $7-$10 iron, and some 60/40 solder. It's challenging to say the least!

Contrast that with a truly clean board, or a tinned board, some 63/37 eutectic solder, and a reasonable iron with a tinned iron tip, and all of the sudden, it's not that difficult to make a solid, shiny connection. But most first-timers are going to go with the low investment until they decide if this is for them.

Unfortunately, many are so put off by trying to solder with poor equipment that they never stick with it.

 

[pojen_h@hotmail.]

Hi, I need a new soldering iron and considering 936, but it come with three difference heads.

This is what I need to do:
step 1: Click me
step 2: Click me(this step is not applied, just to show the ossciallator)
Step 3: replace the osscialator shown on step 2

Eddie suggest that I should use 60w soldering pump to do the work. Which one should I chose? Is there a difference between WBT/CRADAS solders?

Thank you

P.Huang