[olblueyez]

I cant believe I soldered a zillion Leeds and wires and no one ever said "hey, use some flux". Everything I worked on was small though, I can see working on bigger stuff like large cables and what have you.

 

[BrianDonegan]

This was for very small gauge coax wire connected to acoustic guitar pickups. It allowed the tinning to happen much faster to the inner insulation would not melt.

Flux for electronics is (typically) more for repair work than initial soldering. I also add some to my braid when using it for desoldering, which makes it work much faster.

 

[Jugtree]

As I plan to build my little project with specs a bit on the overkill side, I'm still looking for the Kester 1544, but will keep in mind the MG Chemicals No-clean Rosin flux from Sayal (Sayal has a location just minutes from my place).

I'll alos drop in to the Sayal location near me to see what other flux pen/liquid products they have. I'm not a big fan of their website (not descriptive enough).

.:..:::Jugtree

 

[cobaltmute]

Yeah the Sayal site sucks big time, but they are useful if you need something generic. From what I recall, they deal mostly with MG for their flux, but the do have Kester solder.

There is also Active Electronics, there website sucks, but they may have Kester flux.

 

[ericj]

The Kester 186 RMA Flux Pen is awesome.

Makes life so much easier. Especially with smd work.

 

[olblueyez]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianDonegan /img/forum/go_quote.gif This was for very small gauge coax wire connected to acoustic guitar pickups. It allowed the tinning to happen much faster to the inner insulation would not melt. Flux for electronics is (typically) more for repair work than initial soldering. I also add some to my braid when using it for desoldering, which makes it work much faster.

Very good tip.

 

[aphexii]

I was over at my local electronics parts store and they had some paste flux (in a small tub) and a liquid flux (in what looked like a spray bottle).

Which would work better for my first SMD? (Mini3)

 

[Pars]

Liquid, but jar/brush would be better than spray. Even better if they have the Kester Flux Pen...

 

[aphexii]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pars /img/forum/go_quote.gif Liquid, but jar/brush would be better than spray. Even better if they have the Kester Flux Pen...

That's all they had unfortunately. It said RMA Liquid Flux. If I buy it, any ideas where I could locally source a fine tipped pen to put it in? (to make application very precise). Or in the alternative, I guess I could just stick a brush in the Flux with the top off.

RMA needs to be cleaned thoroughly though, right?

 

[aphexii]

I also found this from a local company, would that work?

LINK

 

[BrianDonegan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pars /img/forum/go_quote.gif Liquid, but jar/brush would be better than spray. Even better if they have the Kester Flux Pen...

My recommendation:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=KE1804-ND

 

[aphexii]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianDonegan /img/forum/go_quote.gif My recommendation: Digi-Key - KE1804-ND (Kester Solder - 83-1000-0951)

I was hoping to find something locally as I wanted to try and work on the SMD today

Out of the options above, which combo would probably work best as an alternative?

Flux Paste (w/ Brush)
RMA Liquid Flux in Spray Bottle (w/ Brush or maybe squeeze bottle rather than spray)

 

[aphexii]

Or maybe I should even just get this from Radioshack - Rosin Soldering Flux

I assume I just tack a little bit on each pad before placing the chip on. I guess what i'm confused about, is the Rosin Soldering Flux all I need? (does it act as solder itself as well) or do I just put a little dab on each pad, then solder the pins as normal.

 

[JamesL]

You still need to solder it on.
Flux is just a chemical that chemically reacts and cleans your components when heated to help the solder to 'wet' onto the component.

Quite frankly, you don't really need extra flux to solder on soic-8 parts. Extra flux would definitely help, and I'd recommend it to anyone, but if you're eager to do it now, there's already enough flux inside the core of your solder to get the job done.

I like the flux pen myself because it's easy to store away.
Most any flux will work..(you don't want acid flux). Some flux are mildly active, and will cause problems if not cleaned off, but you should clean the flux off the board regardless. I heard rosin flux was a little more stickier than liquid flux.

 

[Pars]

I'd go for the RMA flux myself, although I didn't look at the ratshack link. Flux is a cleaner which helps the metal (copper) accept solder; so yes, you still need to add solder (a small amount).