Sigh ~ ebay sniping ftl..
Nov 7, 2010 at 6:32 AM Post #47 of 57
I wanted a pair of XD400's for my wife. I have seen them for $45 used on ebay, but every time they come up for regular auction I get sniped. I even waited until the last minute, but I got sniped within 10 sec of the auction ending. I suspect I will have to be patient next time they show up on auction.
 
Also, sometimes when an auction ends may help you out too. When I recently got my CD480's the auction ended at 1:00AM on a late Friday night, my bid came in and I got them for a little over $20. Not a bad deal for some decent back-up cans.
 
I hope a pair of CD780's show up....I will win those if they do.
 
Nov 7, 2010 at 7:15 AM Post #48 of 57
I live in Japan right now, and right now I am bidding on a pair of used ATH M50. I hope someone will not snipe them from me. But at the same time, I do not want to pay too much since the earpads are worn and needs to be replaced. Replacement pads cost 2.000 yen. Why are auctions so frustrating?!?!
 
Nov 7, 2010 at 2:41 PM Post #49 of 57


Quote:
I live in Japan right now, and right now I am bidding on a pair of used ATH M50. I hope someone will not snipe them from me. But at the same time, I do not want to pay too much since the earpads are worn and needs to be replaced. Replacement pads cost 2.000 yen. Why are auctions so frustrating?!?!



That happened when I was bidding on a the V6. I didn't wnat any fakes, so I saw these used ones go for $30. The earpads would have cost about $20. Not a bad deal because I would have had a legit pair for $50. Some reason being sniped caused me to buy a new pair from a reputable retailer, which I felt much more comfortable about seeing as how these headphones are faked.
 
As for older model or vintage headphones, I will be more willing to use ebay.
 
Nov 8, 2010 at 2:52 AM Post #50 of 57
Well, the ATH M50 are a bit more expensive here, even when they are used. I was bidding on Japanese Yahoo auction. I figure that since Audio Technica is a Japanese brand, fakes should be rare. I lost that auction, but won another. The pads seem to be better on that one, so I might not need to buy earpads. It cost more than I had planned, but still about half price compared to retail prices in Japan...
 
Quote:
That happened when I was bidding on a the V6. I didn't wnat any fakes, so I saw these used ones go for $30. The earpads would have cost about $20. Not a bad deal because I would have had a legit pair for $50. Some reason being sniped caused me to buy a new pair from a reputable retailer, which I felt much more comfortable about seeing as how these headphones are faked.
 
As for older model or vintage headphones, I will be more willing to use ebay.



 
Nov 8, 2010 at 4:54 PM Post #51 of 57

 
Quote:
Well, the ATH M50 are a bit more expensive here, even when they are used. I was bidding on Japanese Yahoo auction. I figure that since Audio Technica is a Japanese brand, fakes should be rare. I lost that auction, but won another. The pads seem to be better on that one, so I might not need to buy earpads. It cost more than I had planned, but still about half price compared to retail prices in Japan...
 

 


I wish Americans could bid on Yahoo Japan. I was looking for some MDR-CD780s. Do they have people selling those on Yahoo Japan?
 
Nov 8, 2010 at 5:09 PM Post #52 of 57
For auctions, the only way to buy is this:
 
1. Figure out what your maximum acceptable amount is. If you say "$50, but if it was $51.50 I'd buy it too" then you maximum is $51.50 and not $50. You need the absolute maximum you are willing to pay. 
 
2. Add some odd change number to the above number. If it is $51.50, make it $51.76 or something. Just in case.
 
3. Bid within the last 10 seconds of the auction, hopefully within the last 5. How do you do this? With 2 tabs: one showing the auction with count down, the other one with your bid already entered and ready to submit except for the very last Submit button. 
 
4. Refresh your countdown tab once within the final 30 seconds. Then as the tick mark goes to 10 seconds, start counting yourself "10, 9, 8..." and switch over to your bid window, as you count to "5" click on the submit button. If you feel brave and have faith in your broadband connection, you can go down to 3. 
 
If you lose the bid, it wasn't meant to be yours.
 
The key is to submit one bid and one bid only that represents the maximum amount you wish to pay, as close to the end of the auction as possible.  
 
Jack
 
Edit: Did I just describe how to snipe? 
redface.gif

 
Nov 12, 2010 at 5:57 AM Post #54 of 57
 
Quote:
I wish Americans could bid on Yahoo Japan. I was looking for some MDR-CD780s. Do they have people selling those on Yahoo Japan?

 
 
Not common, it seems. There is one pair up for auction right now:
http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r71197673
 
I am "lucky" since I live in Japan during 2010 and I can use my wife's account. So I try to stock up on Japanese stuff that is expensive in Europe.
 
The ATH M50 I won look like new and sound great. Definitively the real deal. The only drawback is that they stink, i.e. the previous owner is a smoker and they smell like a cheap nightclub. I hope the smell will go away now that they no longer exposed to smoke...
 
Nov 13, 2010 at 8:22 AM Post #55 of 57
Hey I know you have to live in Japan to get those but if the price is right I would pay you to get them for me lol!!
 
Nov 15, 2010 at 8:50 PM Post #56 of 57


Quote:
For auctions, the only way to buy is this:
 
1. Figure out what your maximum acceptable amount is. If you say "$50, but if it was $51.50 I'd buy it too" then you maximum is $51.50 and not $50. You need the absolute maximum you are willing to pay. 
 
2. Add some odd change number to the above number. If it is $51.50, make it $51.76 or something. Just in case.
 
3. Bid within the last 10 seconds of the auction, hopefully within the last 5. How do you do this? With 2 tabs: one showing the auction with count down, the other one with your bid already entered and ready to submit except for the very last Submit button. 
 
4. Refresh your countdown tab once within the final 30 seconds. Then as the tick mark goes to 10 seconds, start counting yourself "10, 9, 8..." and switch over to your bid window, as you count to "5" click on the submit button. If you feel brave and have faith in your broadband connection, you can go down to 3. 
 
If you lose the bid, it wasn't meant to be yours.
 
The key is to submit one bid and one bid only that represents the maximum amount you wish to pay, as close to the end of the auction as possible.  
 
Jack
 
Edit: Did I just describe how to snipe? 
redface.gif


lol, damn I wish I read this before I just lost ANOTHER bid on the Se-l40s :xf_mad:
 
Nov 15, 2010 at 8:53 PM Post #57 of 57
Joy to the world for I have lost another bid...
 
- here is what is what I did
 
Used Bidsniper (link found in page 2)
however, i entered a digit which was a WHOLE NUMBER
and easily got outbidded... then in a panic with only 5 seconds left... i typed in ANOTHER WHOLE NUMBER... and got outbidded by $1.50 lol
 
FARRRRRH|<~!!!!!
 
If anyone is selling a pioneer Se-L40 please please lmk T^T
 

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