[winders]

Here is something you learn in the computer industry when computer companies try to tell you that you can't make any changes to their product. To deny a warranty claim, there has to be proof that what you changed caused the failure. So, Schiit can't really stop you from opening up your Freya or Yggdrasil and replacing the stock fuse with one of appropriate specifications.

For example:

Let's say your Yggdrasil had a USB card failure. You send it in to Schiit for repair. They notice you have an aftermarket audio fuse in place of the stock fuse. They can't deny warranty service unless they can prove that either the fuse or something you did when you installed the fuse caused the failure. Speculation is not enough.

 

[alpovs]

Nobody got Mike's allusion to do what you want but he can't tell you so directly? There are no seals on Schiit products. You can even replace the fuse with the original one if you need to send the Yggy back. I am sure they will be able to tell if it was your fuse that screwed up something even if you never mention the fuse.

 

[alpovs]

When I first heard of audiophile fuses I thought it to be like so many other tweaks that do not make much of a difference, if any, and how can a tiny wire inside of a fuse make a difference? But there has been numerous threads on Audiogon that have many passionate fans of them.

If false is mentioned many many times it doesn't make it true. Although it works in politics somehow.

 

[funch]

This video just came out today! I just got it in my mailbox. ... (12/13/17)

​

I had a HiFi Tuning Supreme on hand, so installed it in my Yggy. What Paul says is true. Veil lifted, plus more dynamic, yadda yadda.

The stock fuse is 630mA, fast blo.

Get the fuse, put it in. Done. (mic drop)

 

[gdhal]

Given all the hullabaloo about the fuse(s), may I ask the pundits whether or not the fuse sits before or after any other circuitry? Fuses generally (but Yggy may not fall into a general category) are meant to protect electronic circuitry from voltage/current overload and nothing more or less. So if before the Yggy "magic" happens, it would be a stretch to state there is any audible difference while at the same time other circuitry hasn't been negatively compromised.

In keeping with Mike Moffat's long strange trip thread, understand that "my job is to shed light, and not to master."

 

[5genez]

I had a HiFi Tuning Supreme on hand, so installed it in my Yggy. What Paul says is true. Veil lifted, plus more dynamic, yadda yadda.

The stock fuse is 630mA, fast blo.

Get the fuse, put it in. Done. (mic drop)

A few others online said it is a slow blow. Are you sure? How does the rating code read for the one you removed?

 

[5genez]

I do use Hi-Fi Tuning fuses and have tried a few others.

I put one of these in my NuPrime HPA9 . Not expensive! ..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/271356653809?ul_noapp=true

I use it in my NuPrime HPA9 head amp while testing the fuse as a preamp to listen to my speakers. Tried two different directions for the fuse to see what gave the best sound, and have not looked back.

 

[5genez]

If false is mentioned many many times it doesn't make it true. Although it works in politics somehow.

Saying they don't work is false. I used to sell audio. Not every audio salesman is unable to hear. I sold what was high end equipment for its day. I am also a musician. And, I despised certain salesmen who told the buyer what to listen for trying to use the power of suggestion. Need I say, I did not get along with them too well.

 

[funch]

A few others online said it is a slow blow. Are you sure? How does the rating code read for the one you removed?

F630mA/250V

 

[5genez]

F630mA/250V

Another reason I am glad I have not rushed into this. If it were any other component it would have been long changed. Still deciding...

 

[5genez]

Nobody got Mike's allusion to do what you want but he can't tell you so directly? There are no seals on Schiit products. You can even replace the fuse with the original one if you need to send the Yggy back. I am sure they will be able to tell if it was your fuse that screwed up something even if you never mention the fuse.

I am relatively new here... I am just getting that point. Thanks..

 

[RoundRound]

I have a weird problem with my Yggy, I've had it for about 2 years and I'm loving it, but recently while playing music I can hear clicking sounds (as if I'm changing inputs, except I'm not) - could it be a relay? Whats funny is that the music keeps on playing, but obviously the audible mechanical click is very annoying. Happens at all audio bit-rates.

My Yggy is connected via a BNC to an RPI with an Allo DigiOne HAT. used to work perfectly.

Any ideas? Thank you!

 

[jcn3]

I have a weird problem with my Yggy, I've had it for about 2 years and I'm loving it, but recently while playing music I can hear clicking sounds (as if I'm changing inputs, except I'm not) - could it be a relay? Whats funny is that the music keeps on playing, but obviously the audible mechanical click is very annoying. Happens at all audio bit-rates.

My Yggy is connected via a BNC to an RPI with an Allo DigiOne HAT. used to work perfectly.

Any ideas? Thank you!

Sounds like something is happening where the data being sent is being corrupted. Have you tried a different cable and or different BNC/SPDIF source? I'm betting on the hat causing the problem.

 

[bacobits]

Try un- plugging everything and doing a restart on all of it, turn the Yiggy off then when reconnected back on.
Restarting everything helps a lot.
It does sound like a relay. Corrupt data would just get drops or maybe the "schiit" light should comes on and off.

 

[5genez]

I have a weird problem with my Yggy, I've had it for about 2 years and I'm loving it, but recently while playing music I can hear clicking sounds (as if I'm changing inputs, except I'm not) - could it be a relay? Whats funny is that the music keeps on playing, but obviously the audible mechanical click is very annoying. Happens at all audio bit-rates.

My Yggy is connected via a BNC to an RPI with an Allo DigiOne HAT. used to work perfectly.

Any ideas? Thank you!

Every time I reboot I get that clicking because its been disconnected and re-connects. I once had a bad (expensive) optical Toslink that did that with another DAC. Could be a bad case of drop outs coming from your USB connection. Did you try a different USB port? If you have USB 3.0 you might want to try that.. if its not a defective USB cord it may help stop it..

Try a little DeoxIT on the USB connectors? https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G